Pfaff 345 issues

[Karbo]

Greetings,

I’ve been trying to solve some issues for the past few days of thread entanglement and so far not so good. I’ve disassembled the bobin case up to the bobin case lever to make sure no thread was in between. Currently I’m using 134-35 #21 needles and #138 thread. In the second video, I removed the cover to show the needle to hook action.  I’m aware that this video is probably not enough to solve the problem but I’m willing to follow guidance and post more as needed.
 

Thank you for your time. 

 

[nejcek74]

Your timing is a little bit off (hook should be at the needle scarf when already on the way up, distance is defined in the manual) and probably the needle is too far from the hook (it should almost touch the needle, but not exactly, ca 0.1mm). I suggest you to find the engineering manual and follow it to time your machine.

[Karbo]

18 hours ago, nejcek74 said:

Your timing is a little bit off (hook should be at the needle scarf when already on the way up, distance is defined in the manual) and probably the needle is too far from the hook (it should almost touch the needle, but not exactly, ca 0.1mm). I suggest you to find the engineering manual and follow it to time your machine.

Thanks for the reply, I’ll have to research on how to time this model…I’ve read something about the eccentric adjustment screws but not sure if that’s how to proceed. 

[AlZilla]

This post and the few that follow talk about timing a 545. Maybe it'll be helpful to you:

 

[Karbo]

1 hour ago, AlZilla said:

This post and the few that follow talk about timing a 545. Maybe it'll be helpful to you:

 

Thank you, that’s what I needed 

[friquant]

3 hours ago, Karbo said:

I’m aware that this video is probably not enough to solve the problem but I’m willing to follow guidance and post more as needed.

Nice job on the videos! Adequately slow, in focus, and that second was such a CLOSEUP!!! 🤩 

As the others have indicated, the hook timing needs to be retarded. In the first video, see the loop of thread that gets dragged around the bobbin the first time the hook grabs it? That loop is what gets pulled tight to form the next stitch, and the loop needs to be in front of the hook point in order to do so. Otherwise the hook will grab that loop on the hook's second time around and the machine will bind.

To fix, you retard the hook timing until that loop is safely 5-10mm ahead of the hook point when the hook comes around the second time. (Or you can set the hook timing according to factory specs---that will probably accomplish the same goal.) 😀

[Karbo]

Ok so I timed it accordingly to the 2mm specified for the 345. I was able to slide the bobbin base a bit forward to that the hook is closer to the needle. Good news is that I’m starting to get something that looks like stitches but there’s still entanglement.

Here’s a video to the issues I’m having at the moment.
 

 

[Karbo]

12 hours ago, friquant said:

Nice job on the videos! Adequately slow, in focus, and that second was such a CLOSEUP!!! 🤩 

As the others have indicated, the hook timing needs to be retarded. In the first video, see the loop of thread that gets dragged around the bobbin the first time the hook grabs it? That loop is what gets pulled tight to form the next stitch, and the loop needs to be in front of the hook point in order to do so. Otherwise the hook will grab that loop on the hook's second time around and the machine will bind.

To fix, you retard the hook timing until that loop is safely 5-10mm ahead of the hook point when the hook comes around the second time. (Or you can set the hook timing according to factory specs---that will probably accomplish the same goal.) 😀

Thanks, I’m still working on it, I think there’s also a tension issue. 

[friquant]

1 hour ago, Karbo said:

I’m starting to get something that looks like stitches but there’s still entanglement.

Something that's new if you are coming from domestic sewing machines is that you have to hold the top thread when you start a seam. Here's what I do:

1. Move the takeup lever to the highest position. (Otherwise the takeup lever will steal the top thread from you when you commence stitching)
2. Insert material under presser foot
3. Lower presser foot
4. Hold top thread in place while you make your first two or three stitches, then you can release the top thread
5. At the end of your seam, again move the takeup lever to the highest position to set the last stitch before you remove the material

Sometimes instead of merely holding the top thread in place, I actually preload the top thread until the thread check spring deflects, then hold in that position to start the seam. If you choose to do this advanced option, because your middle presser has an open cutout on the right side you will need to have the top thread going down under your middle presser foot and out the the left. (My middle presser has a full round hole so I can pull mine any direction without deflecting the needle)

[shoepatcher]

needle two small for 138 thread,  Go to a 140/#22.

glenn