Cb341 stitching question

[AlZilla]

30 minutes ago, Tommy217xxx said:

That’s a good point. What about different hopper feet? Would a zipper foot make zippers easier to stitch? 
 

sorry for all the questions.

Lots of those specialized presser feet have been around for over a century. There's a reason they endure. A zipper foot definitely lets a person stitch extremely close. In the case of a zipper foot (say on a domestic machine especially) you're well off to pair it with a needle plate that has a close fitting needle hole instead of a zig zag plate. The larger needle hole can let your sewn goods push through and mess up your stitch.

You'll run into a lot of these little issues as you expand your sewing skills.

[friquant]

17 hours ago, Tommy217xxx said:

Do u guys take the brake out of your servos? Mine has a brushed motor and I saw an article about different motors. The article mentioned taking the brake out.

is there a reason why I wouldn’t want to do that?

I removed the brake from my brushed motor, and preferred it that way. I didn't like having to press on the treadle in order to move the handwheel freely.

Try removing it, and see how many revolutions it takes for it to stop from the speeds you sew at. Then you can decide what you like.

[friquant]

On 10/23/2025 at 6:32 AM, Tommy217xxx said:

I’m using 92 thread and needles and I’m not sure what needles I got when I bought the machine.

You can measure the width of the needle just above the scarf. That will tell you the metric needle size. (1.4mm, for example is 140Nm)

[Wizcrafts]

18 hours ago, Tommy217xxx said:

Do u guys take the brake out of your servos? Mine has a brushed motor and I saw an article about different motors. The article mentioned taking the brake out.

is there a reason why I wouldn’t want to do that?

Run on is the reason for leaing the brake on. But, open the motor housing  where the lever comes out and look to see is there is a screw adjustment to preposition the lever downward, or to move the brake pad outward. If so, you can move the lever down to a point where the cork just engages, then fine tune it so it to minimize the free play before it engages with the motor. Some folks have actually sanded down the cork brake pad to get more movement before it hits the metal drive plate. That's the ideal situation. Clutch motors have an adjustment for free play that most servo motors lack.

[Tommy217xxx]

3 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

Run on is the reason for leaing the brake on. But, open the motor housing  where the lever comes out and look to see is there is a screw adjustment to preposition the lever downward, or to move the brake pad outward. If so, you can move the lever down to a point where the cork just engages, then fine tune it so it to minimize the free play before it engages with the motor. Some folks have actually sanded down the cork brake pad to get more movement before it hits the metal drive plate. That's the ideal situation. Clutch motors have an adjustment for free play that most servo motors lack.

I may need to adjust my clutch brake b/c I barely have to tuck the gas and it’s moving. It’s a fine line between releasing the brake and the machine stitching.

[Wizcrafts]

56 minutes ago, Tommy217xxx said:

I may need to adjust my clutch brake b/c I barely have to tuck the gas and it’s moving. It’s a fine line between releasing the brake and the machine stitching.

The more the slack, the better. Do whatever it takes to move the brake pad away from the clutch drive plate. If it's already on the verge of engaging, back off the screw to give it more hold vs motion time. Somebody with a shop should come up with an adjustable clutch/brake pad accessory for these motors.