How to ease when sewing leather on a 1341?

[joetroba]

I am looking for some help learning how to ease a seem when sewing leather on a 1341.  Specifically, a welted seam, where I have a stack of 4 ounce leather, 4 ounce 3/16" welt and 4 ounce leather.  Each of the 4 ounce pieces have a curve but the seam lengths could be different, but I need start with pieces even and end with pieces even.  I have done this with pieces that are the same length but having trouble with the ones that are not the same length.

Thanks

[AlZilla]

What are you making that the three pieces wouldn't be the same length?

4 ounce leather really doesn't have any stretch that would lend itself to easing unequal lengths, at least as I understand easing from doing it with fabric.

I'm going to move this to the Leather Sewing Machine sub forum. 

[Constabulary]

not sure what you mean... Is it that your last stitch is probably to long and not hitting the 1st needle hole where the seam began? If so then you can shorten the stitch with the reverse lever and hand crank the last stitch - if you know what I mean.

[joetroba]

I am working on sewing the finger stalls on a baseball glove.  Two pieces make up the back of a finger so there is a welted seam directly down the middle of the back of the finger.  The two pieces that make up that seam are sometimes not equal length to create a "3d" curve in the back of the finger.  I hope that makes sense, kind of hard to explain in words.

My initial assumption would be that they would have to be the same length and the actual curve cut into the piece creates that "3d" curve.  But I have also been told that it is normal for those pieces to be different lengths to create that "3d" curve.  

So maybe I am chasing the answer to an incorrect statement, and they both should be equal lengths. Just looking for any advice or clarity. And if anyone has done this before or something similar with another type of project.

Edited 15 hours ago by joetroba

[friquant]

3 hours ago, joetroba said:

I am working on sewing the finger stalls on a baseball glove.  Two pieces make up the back of a finger so there is a welted seam directly down the middle of the back of the finger.  The two pieces that make up that seam are sometimes not equal length to create a "3d" curve in the back of the finger

Interesting...Can you send photos of the pieces of leather that comprise a single finger stall?

[AlZilla]

From the lace at the top to the binding on the bottom, the first finger measures 5 3/4" long, all the way across. 

I can't see inside to see the details. 

It sounds like you're making a new glove?

[joetroba]

So I am attempting to make a new glove and have been using several older gloves as templates/patterns.  I dont have any leather cut at the moment but here is what the piece look like in 2D and then my first attempt at sewing them together. Learning to keep the pieces together and against the guide.  No way to glue them so it gets interesting.  These two pieces are pretty close in "seam length" but there are others have more difference in length.

 

[AlZilla]

Interesting project. I see the difference in the 2 lengths, 219 vs 215.72. I wonder if that difference could be in how the old gloves stretched over the years. 

I've had similar problems trying to use an old hat I took apart as a template. Pieces just don't seem to like up as if expect.

[friquant]

Did you account for seam allowance?

For a non-eased seam, the the pieces will have the same length along the stitch line. (Not necessarily the same length along the outside edge of the leather)

 

[AlZilla]

At 5:30 of this video, the lady is sewing those welted fingers with which you're struggling. 

I hate posting a yt video that might disappear, but it is what it is.