Problem wit eco-flo easy-carve!

[Patrice]

Hi everyone!

Last week, while cleaning my workspace in the basement, much to my surprise, i discovered that my mixture of easy-carve and water was full of floating green and grey mold. Even the cloth that i always left in the mixture was inpregnated with mold.

Does it happened to you?

Man, i was furious. For me, this will be the last time i'll be buying that crap. I'll try to find an other seller of bee-natural pro-carve.

Should i call my local Tandy and complain? I'm really angry

[LarryB]

I use water, a little lexol and a small pinch of saddle soap. I have all this in a small crock pot and turn it on to warm it up and apply it then shut it down. It sits there for a long time but I do not keep the sponge in the water it sits on top of the lid. Mine never turns green or grey other than from using it and I change it out to keep a clean misture. I have never used the eco-flo easy-carve in my water so I can't tell you anything about it, sorry.

[Hilly]

I didn't have the problem you're having with it, but I tried it, and didn't like it. I think plain ol' water works just as well, if not better. I put one drop of liquid detergent in the water, just to help break the surface tension.

[bruce johnson]

Patrice,

When TLF discontinued carrying the ProCarve, I asked them if the new EcoFlo replacement was antifungal. They told me it was not. It won't be a surprise to them that you had a mold problem, although I would be glad it is just in a rag and dish, and not on a project. Perhaps if enough people let them know that antifungals in a casing solution is a good thing, they might have whoever is making it for them reformulate it. In my old shop, I had a heck of a mold problem, and new bags each time, refrigeration, etc didn't make a huge difference. ProCarve stopped it. I am in a new place and I have not had an issue. I think that resident spores are the big issue. I have had guys in damp southern climates tell me that finished products cased in ProCarve are pretty resistant to mold on the finished products in use. Enough of whatever is in it remains active in the leather according to them. Weavers carries ProCarve and has it in quarts as well as the 8 oz bottles.

I have recently switched over to using the Lexol/baby shampoo formula shared here a while back. I like it a bunch. I had a belt I cased up 10 days ago. Put it in a ziplock bag overnight, didn't get to it and meant to take it out of the used bag before I left for a week (didn't). I pulled it out of the bag today, no mold and quick swipe of more casing and let it sit two hours and whacked out the belt. If I find a mold problem, I will be trying to add an antifungal to this mix.

[LarryB]

I'll have to try that Bruce, the Lexol and baby shampoo Thanks for sharing that.

[hiloboy]

when mixing Lexol and baby shampoo how much of each do you use? what is the formula?i'd like to try it if i can find out how to make it...

[bruce johnson]

Curt,

Ben Cox shared this formula with us a while back. I think Ben's formula is 1-1/2 cups water, 1/2 cup lexol conditioner. and 1 tbsp of baby shampoo. I mix it by the quart - 3 parts water, 1 part lexol, squirt of baby shampoo. I have been using this for a few months now, and am just as happy as the first time. Still no mold in the shop (knocking on wood).

[pete]

Patrice,

When TLF discontinued carrying the ProCarve, I asked them if the new EcoFlo replacement was antifungal. They told me it was not. It won't be a surprise to them that you had a mold problem, although I would be glad it is just in a rag and dish, and not on a project. Perhaps if enough people let them know that antifungals in a casing solution is a good thing, they might have whoever is making it for them reformulate it. In my old shop, I had a heck of a mold problem, and new bags each time, refrigeration, etc didn't make a huge difference. ProCarve stopped it. I am in a new place and I have not had an issue. I think that resident spores are the big issue. I have had guys in damp southern climates tell me that finished products cased in ProCarve are pretty resistant to mold on the finished products in use. Enough of whatever is in it remains active in the leather according to them. Weavers carries ProCarve and has it in quarts as well as the 8 oz bottles.

I have recently switched over to using the Lexol/baby shampoo formula shared here a while back. I like it a bunch. I had a belt I cased up 10 days ago. Put it in a ziplock bag overnight, didn't get to it and meant to take it out of the used bag before I left for a week (didn't). I pulled it out of the bag today, no mold and quick swipe of more casing and let it sit two hours and whacked out the belt. If I find a mold problem, I will be trying to add an antifungal to this mix.

Bruce- do you case with the formula or with water and then the solution? I tried it awhile back as directed and found that the leather had a greasy feel to it when it came time to carve. Also- and the biggest problem, was that it was way to easy to undercut the leather. I've never had a problem with the swivel knife before.

pete

[gtwister09]

Curt,

Ben Cox shared this formula with us a while back. I think Ben's formula is 1-1/2 cups water, 1/2 cup lexol conditioner. and 1 tbsp of baby shampoo. I mix it by the quart - 3 parts water, 1 part lexol, squirt of baby shampoo. I have been using this for a few months now, and am just as happy as the first time. Still no mold in the shop (knocking on wood).

Bruce,

I add 1 Tablespoon Listerine for the antifungal aspect.

Curt,

Here's the formula link..... No More Tears Casing Formula

Pete,

I have not had a problem with undercutting with this formula. Maybe Bruce can chime in on that as well.

Regards,

Ben

[bruce johnson]

Pete,

I only case with this solution. I slather it on with a sheepskin patch, let the first coat sink in for 5-10 minutes, slather on some more, and bag it overnight. I am an overnight casing fan on most everything. Occasionally I might case a checkbook for a couple hours though. It has all soaked in and equalized throughout the leather before I cut on it. No greasy feel for me. I undercut some, but I can't blame the leather or case for that, only my hand. LOL. I see a few advantages of this mix over plain water, water with Carveze (I think that is what the old stuff was called), water with Pro-Carve, water with Dawn, water with taxidermy oil, etc. This is the only stuff I have used that you can rewet something that is on the dry side and not lose the effects you have. I have a longer golden period of working moisture level than the others, other than when I cased and then top dressed with saddle soap. Unlike saddle soap, this doesn't repel my lettering dye. I have had some things cased, let them totally dry, recased and it still cut pretty easily. I stamp my geometrics and baskets more to the dry side, and this gives me great tool burnishing. This is my take on it, but like everything else, different people, different leathers, and different styles all figure in here.

[David]

Cast my vote with Hilly.

Give me plain ole water.

David Theobald