A thread thread

[howardb]

I need a translator: from ancient leatherese into modern english!

Thread Buying thread:

I have seen every possible description for thread in many different posts and online catalogs. What I need is to know how to equate between the varying size references. I'm guessing that size DOES matter...

"3 cord" is WHAT exactly? The link to Maine Thread provided some clues, but still questions remain. They have a chart at the bottom that shows 6 cord through 11 cord. 6 cord is shown as .035", 8 cord is .045", and 11 cord is shown as .055". They have waxed thread starting at .020" through .055" without the "x-cord" identifier. They also show an artificial sinew with NO size reference! How's a newbie supposed to figure this all out?

Stohlman's book says to use "Buhlers 6 cord" to stitch holsters. I would assume you could use the mysterious 3 or 4 cord to stitch smaller things?

I have a spool of very heavy looking black waxed cord (ultra waxed I might add from Mexico) that measures at about .035" to .040". No clue as to sizing. there's a '3' stamped on the label and '.250'. No other markings

I have some natural colored stuff that I inherited that measures out about .025". The label inside the core says "Blue Mountain Industrial" and "waxed polyester twine". 9/15/80 and 4 ply. 900 308 966 also adorn the label. Yes it occurs to me that the 9/15/80 could be a mfg date, but I've seen strange size nomenclature on thread before so I assume nothing.

I e-mailed Maine Thread for the size chart they advertise. Not sure what I'll get, but I'll share when it arrives.

Brent

[anne newkold]

maybe this link will help explain some of it.

http://www.artisansew.com/thread.html

look to the chart at the bottom of the page.

Anne

[ElNino]

Hi Brent,

I have been struggling with this one as well. Anne thanks for the link that cleared up the sizing for me. Al's book also talks abouty using linen thread too but I am also hearing about nylon and polyetster blends. One spool thread will mpre than likely last me a lifetime so I wondering which thread is the best choice and what makes it better, I have heard that linen thread will rot so I am really condused on which way to go. My other question is will waxed thread take the dye color?

Cheers,

Chris

[bcurrier]

Linen can rot (as can cotton), but you can also find linen-sewn items hundreds of years old, too. Nylon can "rot" from sun exposure. Both nylon and poly stretch more than natural threads. Etc. etc. All thread types have their own characteristics, so it's a matter of picking the best thread for the usage.

Bill

[ElNino]

I am looking for a good all purpose thread I am leaning towards unwaxed linen, I do expect to be making pieces that will be exposed to the elements and seeing as I live on the coast I should include saltwater. I expect to need 2 or 3 different sizes. I still haven't managed to find any local suppliers so I will still need to have my orders shipped which means it makes more sense to order a few rolls at once. BTW I just received my book order shipped USPS no duties or brokerage fees unlike UPS. Anybody in the UK have any suggestions?

Chris

[whinewine]

Al's book also talks abouty using linen thread too but I am also hearing about nylon and polyetster blends. One spool thread will last me a lifetime so I wondering which thread is the best choice and what makes it better, I have heard that linen thread will rot so I am really condused on which way to go.

I am not saying that one type is better than others, but what is the original copyright of Al's book? In all probability, Al only had 2 serious choices at that time: linen or cotton. Cotton has major flaws for handsewing, I believe, & linen was, therefore, the obvious choice at the time. Now there are many different choices: linen, poly, nylon & kevlar (& possibly others I haven't thought of). Who knows, if Al were to have written the book today, he might have recommended kevlar... ???

[Art]

Hi Chris,

Linen thread will rot, however I have seen many holsters that are falling apart with dry rot and other sundry deteriorations but the linen thread is still going strong in both machine stitched and hand stitched versions. Waxing linen will give it extra durability in addition to allowing the stitches to stick to each other for a tighter stitch. You can buy linen that is already waxed, but it is a simple task to hand wax with beeswax when preparing to stitch. For machines, liquid paraffin based wax works good also, don't run prewaxed linen in a machine. Linen takes dye readily, however after waxing not as well.

Nylon and polyester will deteriorate with excessive exposure to direct sunlight, however here again, the leather will probably not outlast it. Outdoor gear and sails and awnings are stitched with nylon and polyester. I stitched a sacrificial strip to my roller Genoa and the strip (Sunbrella type) gave up the ghost after about 8 years of daily exposure, and I peeled it off easily, but I had to rip every last nylon stitch out with a seam ripper (I'll just sew over them next time!). This thread (#92 Bonded Nylon, can't remember the manufacturer but a major one) was from 1980 and I'm sure they have made some advances over the almost 30 years to improve longevity.

I have found that thread takes more of a beating, and has more failures from mechanical wear than environmental. Protect any stitching as best you can, but not at unreasonable expense to strength. If you are going to expose it to sever wet outdoor use, then nylon or poly is your best bet, but like I said, there is a whole lot of linen around still holding some very deteriorated leather together.

Art

Hi Brent,

I have been struggling with this one as well. Anne thanks for the link that cleared up the sizing for me. Al's book also talks abouty using linen thread too but I am also hearing about nylon and polyetster blends. One spool thread will mpre than likely last me a lifetime so I wondering which thread is the best choice and what makes it better, I have heard that linen thread will rot so I am really condused on which way to go. My other question is will waxed thread take the dye color?

Cheers,

Chris

[ElNino]

Art,

Thank you it does seem that at least for my first few pieces I will be using linen thread. As far as dying the thread I am guessing that I should dye it before I wax it, my next question is how do you size the needles to the thread? I plan on using Barbour Linen thread. Also I have heard people saying that the egg eye needles are not the best choice but that is all that I have been able to find in Harness needles.

Cheers,

Chris

[Art]

Hi Chris,

I am not the authority here on hand stitching. There are others here who have forgotten more about it than I know. However, I do some and use harness needles from CSO. I have started using (this will sound crazy) a crochet hook to harness stitch. I just make sure the barb on the hook is smooth and even turned in a bit. I sew mostly by machine and occasionally finish stitching by hand. I use the needles with the smaller eye in them. I would wax a piece of thread and then dye it to see how it goes. Most thread only gets what dye it picks up from the rest of the piece if it is dyed.

Art

Art,

Thank you it does seem that at least for my first few pieces I will be using linen thread. As far as dying the thread I am guessing that I should dye it before I wax it, my next question is how do you size the needles to the thread? I plan on using Barbour Linen thread. Also I have heard people saying that the egg eye needles are not the best choice but that is all that I have been able to find in Harness needles.

Cheers,

Chris

[Leather Bum]

Speaking of thread types, what exactly does the term "bonded nylon" or "bonded polyester" mean?

L'Bum