Attention Knife makers

[logem]

I make knives. I don't see why you couldn't use an exotic stainless like ATS-34. When properly heat treated, it should hold an edge longer than most carbon steels. Rather than ATS-34 you should use 154 CM which is the American equivalent of ATS-34.

Better yet, is CPM 154 CM. Here is a description from the Crucible Steel spec sheet:

Crucible 154 CM is a modification of 440C martensitic stainless steel to which molybdenum has been added. 154 CM has better corrosion resistance, better wear resistance and better hot-hardness than 440C. For knifemakers, it offers better edge retention than 440C. It also has higher attainable hardness and better through hardening characteristics than 440C.

And even better than that is CPM S30V. It is very difficult to grind and polish after it has been heat treated, so most work must be done prior to heat treating. Here is a summary from its spec sheet:

CPM S30V is a martensitic stainless steel designed to offer the best combination of toughness, wear resistance and corrosion resistance. Its chemistry has been specially balanced to promote the formation of vanadium carbides which are harder and more effective than chromium carbides in providing wear resistance. CPM S30V offers substantial improvement in toughness over other high hardness steels such as 440C and D2, and its corrosion resistance is equal to or better than 440C in various environments.

These steels can be purchased from Admiral Steel. A direct link to their price list is HERE.

Take care,

Mike L

[TwinOaks]

Re: Using circular saw blades- A lot of circular saw blades are made from L6 steel, which is easy enough to work and harden, but it rusts very easily. Keep this in mind for leather use. For practice, yes, it's great, you can lay out patterns and such, but it's not for finished blades.

[Pelallito]

Hi,

I agree with Logem that a good stainless would work well, but at the price Admiral wants for 1/16th by 6" , you better have a use for all of the unused material.

I bought a piece of 4 by 1/116th by 18" O1 for about $18 and so far have made a head/round knife out of it and will probably make three more knives, ;ike the ones shown in Stohlmans book to have a matching leather knife collection.

YYou can get O1 in any company that sells precision tools.

Good luck.

Regards,

Fred

[RandyScott]

I bought two older CSO head knives via EBay for less than $35 each including shipping. The steel is good, my favorite has that nice grey patina and the other has some pitting to clean up but no big deal.. certainly a lot easier than cutting a pattern out of O1 steel. The nice one is .005 thick at the tang and .003 thick a quarter inch in from the blade edge. The other is .007 thick at the tang and also .003 thick a quarter inch from the tang. I sharpen at 5 degrees per side, then hone and strop. They will shave your fingerprint ridges off. For anyone who decides to purchase via EBay, I suggest watching the bids and the items till something comes along that you like. For me, the more photos of the item the more assured I was of the item. Sometimes you can just get lucky on an item.

Now just to put my comments in perspective, I make a few knives also.. and I took the easy way.

[Art]

Hi Randy,

Check your caliper, did you mean .030", .050", and .070"?

Art

I bought two older CSO head knives via EBay for less than $35 each including shipping. The steel is good, my favorite has that nice grey patina and the other has some pitting to clean up but no big deal.. certainly a lot easier than cutting a pattern out of O1 steel. The nice one is .005 thick at the tang and .003 thick a quarter inch in from the blade edge. The other is .007 thick at the tang and also .003 thick a quarter inch from the tang. I sharpen at 5 degrees per side, then hone and strop. They will shave your fingerprint ridges off. For anyone who decides to purchase via EBay, I suggest watching the bids and the items till something comes along that you like. For me, the more photos of the item the more assured I was of the item. Sometimes you can just get lucky on an item.

Now just to put my comments in perspective, I make a few knives also.. and I took the easy way.

[RandyScott]

Art,

Thanks... yes that is what I SHOULD have said... I was trying to keep an eye on my 2 year old grandson, measure the round knife and type at the same time.

Randy

[Art]

Hi Randy,

Been there,

Done that,

Got scars to prove it, burns too.

Art

Art,

Thanks... yes that is what I SHOULD have said... I was trying to keep an eye on my 2 year old grandson, measure the round knife and type at the same time.

Randy

[hoosier122]

Thanks for the repplies, I agree that carbon would probably be better, but I haven't been able to find anyone that sell cabon steel in pieces big enough of thin enough for what I want.

Old rusty metal files make great knife steel for forging.