Sizing Belts

[Big Papa Leather]

I tried making a belt for me. I used a belt I currently have in use as the pattern for the length.

I adjusted for the difference in the buckle style and cut it to size. I then did the tooling.

And I'll be a monkey's uncle if the dang thing is too small! I know I'm chubby but I didn't out grow it while I was tooling it.

My pattern belt fits still.

What is the belt way to size a belt for yourself or a customer?

allen

[sodapop]

this tip i got from johanna...and has worked out great for me...take the persons pants size say 40 and add 2 inches, measuring from the inside edge of the front/top buckle bar, so your first hole to punch out will be 42"...then your 2 holes in front & back...

darryl

[HarryB]

I have a belt in the shop that has holes marked every inch from about 20" up to 50". The measurement is from the hole to where it hits the buckle tougue. I put that belt around the customer and, whatever it says, that's the size I make the belt, allowing for the difference in length of my buckle and the customer's (usually very little). Works every time.

[bruce johnson]

Allen,

There should be no allowance or adjustment in the belt length for buckles. The leather has to go around your waist and past the buckle fold no matter what the buckle reach is. All the buckle heel-to-tongue length tells you is where to punch the holes.

I have a strap like Harry's for measuring marked off in inches. I get two measurements from it. The first is the waist size which is the fold end to where it starts to overlap and the second is the amount of overlap they want. The waist measurement gives me a reference for punching holes. The overlap length gives me the rest of the story. Some customers want the tip to just clear the keeper and others want 6 inches past the fold.

On some wholesale belts I made the seller didn't want any holes punched. They sized them by the amount of overlap the customer wanted, and then punched them according to the buckle reach. It works for stamped belts without conchos or inlays. One thing they found was that most people with a choice would only want one hole smaller than they wore. Kind of a vanity thing to not have two holes sticking out looking like they had gained weight right off the bat or put on a thicker shirt or tucked sweater and "GASP!" - 3 holes showing.

[rdb]

Of course the best way is to have a belt to match to. I use a belt with measurements on it too (I use letters instead of sizes, that way there's no embarrassment in public settings).

But if you have to ask over the phone, or without verifying, than have the customer use the method in the pic. No waist size, no buckle differences...simple measure from tip of tine to middle hole. It never fails. Two or three holes to either side of that one, and add 4.5 inches beyond the first hole to make the tip cut.

If they don't have a belt, get their waist size, and add the buckle length, plus 2/3 holes and and 4.5 inches. ( I wont guarantees this one to the customer...they aren't always right about their waist.)

I used to know a guy who could get the right measurement just by looking at someone...to this day I quietly do this in my mind, I'm at about 50% right now..That guy should have worked at the Carnival, he could have made a fortune...

[Big Papa Leather]

Thanks for all the replies.

I will be making "another" belt soon.

Allen

[jbird]

you got a say that measuring in person is still the only rock solid way if you can right I mean some guys have really stretched there pants.

Josh

[abn]

One thing they found was that most people with a choice would only want one hole smaller than they wore.

Hmmm... I never considered the idea of adding one hole smaller and three holes larger. I always add two holes to either side of the correct size. But this is a good tip... In all the belts I've made for myself, I don't think I've ever lost enough weight to use the smaller holes. But I sure could have used an extra one on the end! (Especially if I'm wearing layers.)