Members Daggrim Posted February 6, 2009 Members Report Posted February 6, 2009 My last post was about finding longer black rapid rivets. As an alternative, I could antique the nickel or brass ones that are available. But how? I think I've seen a thread about this in the past. Any quick chemical baths that could give a more subdued look to nickel or brass? Thanks again, folks for your help. Dag Quote
Members TheTrooper Posted February 6, 2009 Members Report Posted February 6, 2009 Hi Dag, the thread U are searching for is this one: Antiquing rivets Cheers, Marcel Quote FKA adamant-leather Feel free to visit my site adamant-leather.de
Members Daggrim Posted February 6, 2009 Author Members Report Posted February 6, 2009 Thanks Marcel. What kind of results did you get? I'll experiment this weekend with the vinegar, and maybe mustard. Dag Quote
Members TheTrooper Posted February 7, 2009 Members Report Posted February 7, 2009 Hi Dag, sadly still no results. :-( I havent´t found the time to try. Maybe next week I play a bit with the receipes. I will give you a note and maybe some pics. Have a nice weekend. M. Quote FKA adamant-leather Feel free to visit my site adamant-leather.de
Members Daggrim Posted February 7, 2009 Author Members Report Posted February 7, 2009 Marcel, I have some results from a couple home experiments. The vinegar has negligible results in 24 hours on brass or nickel rivets, whether sanded or not. I tried gun blueing compound, and it darkened the nickel, sanded and unsanded, to black in 5 minutes. It darkened the sanded brass, but not the unsanded brass, in 5 minutes. Gun Blue contains Selenium Dioxide, which I assume is the ative ingredient. No odor or fumes, but carries a health warning for California residents about birth defects. The rest of us don't matter, I guess, or have immunity:) Anyhow, those results are all I need for what I'm doing, so I'm very happy. Gonna order a few hundred 15mm nickel rivets, then buy a quart of gun blue, and say goodbye to all the time I've wasted matching up leather helmet parts, trying to find a combination that's not too thick for my 12mm rivets. Thanks for you responses. Maybe these results will help you, too. Dag Quote
Frank Posted February 9, 2009 Report Posted February 9, 2009 Marcel,I have some results from a couple home experiments. The vinegar has negligible results in 24 hours on brass or nickel rivets, whether sanded or not. I tried gun blueing compound, and it darkened the nickel, sanded and unsanded, to black in 5 minutes. It darkened the sanded brass, but not the unsanded brass, in 5 minutes. Gun Blue contains Selenium Dioxide, which I assume is the ative ingredient. No odor or fumes, but carries a health warning for California residents about birth defects. The rest of us don't matter, I guess, or have immunity:) Anyhow, those results are all I need for what I'm doing, so I'm very happy. Gonna order a few hundred 15mm nickel rivets, then buy a quart of gun blue, and say goodbye to all the time I've wasted matching up leather helmet parts, trying to find a combination that's not too thick for my 12mm rivets. Thanks for you responses. Maybe these results will help you, too. Dag Just a suggestion but I know that Brownells and Midway USA carry "easy to apply" chemicals that darken/antique brass, copper, aluminum, etc. Gun guys use them when they have a brass or aluminum grip frame on their guns but do not want to pay the extra cash to buy a steel grip frame. From what I hear, they work relatively well. Quote Never argue with a stupid person. They'll just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience!!
Members Daggrim Posted February 9, 2009 Author Members Report Posted February 9, 2009 Thanks Frank, I'll check out their sites. Just a further note on the gun blue. I blued my rivets, and rinsed them well in hot water, but there was a residue left on them. Not wanting to handle that stuff when I was riveting, I waited until they were dry, then I cleaned them like we all clean our chain mail. I put them in a wooden barrel filled with sand, and rolled it up and down the deck of the ship. Well, actually, I put them in some tupperware filled with sand and shook it up, in my kitchen. Doug Quote
Members kfiretwo Posted February 9, 2009 Members Report Posted February 9, 2009 Thanks Frank, I'll check out their sites. Just a further note on the gun blue. I blued my rivets, and rinsed them well in hot water, but there was a residue left on them. Not wanting to handle that stuff when I was riveting, I waited until they were dry, then I cleaned them like we all clean our chain mail. I put them in a wooden barrel filled with sand, and rolled it up and down the deck of the ship. Well, actually, I put them in some tupperware filled with sand and shook it up, in my kitchen. Doug dag have u tried a direct flame to ur copper n brass it produces some awsome blueing affects Quote
Members Daggrim Posted February 9, 2009 Author Members Report Posted February 9, 2009 Great idea, and it might be faster than the gun blue/sand method. I'll try it this week. Dag Quote
Members celticleather Posted February 10, 2009 Members Report Posted February 10, 2009 I remember bluing some steel objects many years ago in the school engineering workshop. This was achieved by heating the article until it was a dull red, and then quenching in oil or rubbing with an oil-soaked rag. It created a bit of smoke, but was quite effective. I have since used this method to blue the business end of my homemade stamps, and I have found that it prevents them from rusting or leaving a black mark on cased leather. I'm not sure whether it would be effective on brass or other non-ferrous metals, but it may be worth a try! Quote When everyone is somebody, then no one's anybody
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