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Any tips on how holter makers are stitching the reinforcements that wrap around from front to back on a pancake style holster?

Here are some examples.

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I've tried it on that style and it sucks bad. The only thing that I could think of to make it easier would be to use curved needles. I hope someone has some insight. I can tell you that doing it with straight harness needles is not the answer, because that is what I did.

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Stitch it flat then fold it. You'll learn through experimentation how much leather you need to wrap it. I'd give a formula, but nobody seems to measure the same....so, build a few and experiment!

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Stitch it flat then fold it. You'll learn through experimentation how much leather you need to wrap it. I'd give a formula, but nobody seems to measure the same....so, build a few and experiment!

So are you suggesting laying the front and back side by side and stitching the reinforcement across?

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Stitch it flat then fold it. You'll learn through experimentation how much leather you need to wrap it. I'd give a formula, but nobody seems to measure the same....so, build a few and experiment!

That would work on an Avenger style holster, but the holsters pictured are pancake holster, no fold.

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The reinforcement band is folded/bent. :)

The band is sewn to one side, then it is sewn to the other side. Then bent/folded and the two halves of the pancake are aligned for stitching.

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I've got a question myself about these reinforced mouths as such. On IWH, do they really work all that well? Seems to me from just looking at them, if you reinforce it enough to hold it open against the strain of a belt holding up the average guy's pants, (not to mention donut guzzlin' gut), doesn't it kinda defeat the purpose of putting that bulk inside your waist band?

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As noted above, the two sides of the holster are laid out side by side and flat. The reinforcement strip is sewn to each side. Then the reinforcement strip is folded to align the two holster sides for stitching. The difficult part is getting the length of the reinforcement strip right so that the holster fits the pistol properly.

That said, in my experience such reinforcement is not really needed IF the holster is made of sufficiently heavy leather (8 oz is best). With the lighter leathers (6-7 oz.) reinforcement might be a good idea, but the reinforcement itself needs to be of heavy leather to offer any advantage.

Most of these designs are merely marketing ploys, as the reinforcement actually provides little additional strength to the holster mouth, especially on the IWB holsters.

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Thanks for chiming in Lobo, I like seeing some gun leather pros input for questions like these.

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As noted above, the two sides of the holster are laid out side by side and flat. The reinforcement strip is sewn to each side. Then the reinforcement strip is folded to align the two holster sides for stitching. The difficult part is getting the length of the reinforcement strip right so that the holster fits the pistol properly.

That said, in my experience such reinforcement is not really needed IF the holster is made of sufficiently heavy leather (8 oz is best). With the lighter leathers (6-7 oz.) reinforcement might be a good idea, but the reinforcement itself needs to be of heavy leather to offer any advantage.

Most of these designs are merely marketing ploys, as the reinforcement actually provides little additional strength to the holster mouth, especially on the IWB holsters.

I agree about the thicker band needed. Do you think the reinforcements that are only on the front & do not wrap around still offer any advantage?

I too agree that the reinforcement is not a must have (and adds additional thickness that is not needed either!). But when somebody wants...what ya do?

Overall, this wrap around reinforcement seems very difficult to do when hand stitching.

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Most of these designs are merely marketing ploys, as the reinforcement actually provides little additional strength to the holster mouth, especially on the IWB holsters.

I disagree. The reinforcement is designed to hold the mouth of the holster open once the gun is drawn. It then allows for one-handed reholstering. In some environments/situations, that can be a critical factor.

Some of the designs that are made this way do add a great deal more bulk. But for those holster makers who are skilled in that respect, the addition of the reinforcement piece does not add much more in overall thickness.

JRB: You're going to have a very hard time handsewing that type of throat reinforcement. Try adding an extra piece on the front side of the holster only.

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I disagree. The reinforcement is designed to hold the mouth of the holster open once the gun is drawn. It then allows for one-handed reholstering. In some environments/situations, that can be a critical factor.

Some of the designs that are made this way do add a great deal more bulk. But for those holster makers who are skilled in that respect, the addition of the reinforcement piece does not add much more in overall thickness.

JRB: You're going to have a very hard time handsewing that type of throat reinforcement. Try adding an extra piece on the front side of the holster only.

Thanks K-Man! Wasn't sure if adding it to the front would offer much advantage or not.

Also, I guess when the exotics are used they are sewn over this piece?

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Thanks K-Man! Wasn't sure if adding it to the front would offer much advantage or not.

Also, I guess when the exotics are used they are sewn over this piece?

Yes, that's what normally is done. But at the same time, if adding exotics, use some artistic flair and think outside the box. :cowboy:

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when I did one of these, I stitched the pancake pieces together on the side the throat piece was wrapping around, then flattened it back out and stitched the band on. plus I used a piece of metal strap banding (like you see pallets of goods strapped down with) between the body and throat piece. worked quite well.

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I most definitely agree with K-man on this - there are folks in certain lines of work who find one handed re-holstering very necessary. Also, keep in mind that a thin piece of leather would hold a steel reinforcement just as sufficiently as thick leather, without adding too much bulk.

Finally, I would also suggest that anyone interested in building this kind of holster should respect the original designer (who is a member here), and only build this holster for personal use.

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Any tips on how holter makers are stitching the reinforcements that wrap around from front to back on a pancake style holster?

Here are some examples.

I don't want to rain on your parade or anything, . . . but that particular design looks very much like a Sparks VMII, . . . and I believe the design is patented/copyrighted.

That said, . . . the front "wing" is sewn first, . . . then the two pieces are laid down with the wing standing up like an airplane tail fin, . . . and the third piece sewn onto the front and back by starting in the back, . . . rolling across the seam, . . . sewing the front, . . . coming back again on the seam, . . . and finishing up in the back.

I know this because just for kicks and giggles, . . . I made one for myself. They earn their money on that particular style, . . . and will never have any competition from me.

And, yes, if you do carry a concealed handgun, . . . you will find that the holsters that do not have the re-inforcement tend to close up, . . . and that can be a sticky situation as you try to put away a sidearm, . . . and there ain't no place to put it.

My main two designs I make have the reinforcement even if it is for a mouse gun.

May God bless,

Dwight

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I most definitely agree with K-man on this - there are folks in certain lines of work who find one handed re-holstering very necessary. Also, keep in mind that a thin piece of leather would hold a steel reinforcement just as sufficiently as thick leather, without adding too much bulk.

Finally, I would also suggest that anyone interested in building this kind of holster should respect the original designer (who is a member here), and only build this holster for personal use.

I honestly don't even remember where I copied the pics from, but I know several makers that use this same similar design (one of them has already been mentioned but there are others).

Either way, I don't think it's going to be an issue for me because I think w/hand stitching I'll go w/K-Man's suggestion.

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