hand crank splitters

[bruce johnson]

Clair,

It all depends on how wide a piece you are splitting. I have found with good sharpening and stropping, I can split about 1" less than the blade width on my Chase splitters. I like the Krebs and the Chase patterns the best for the pull through splitters. The Krebs I mostly see are 8". They have a dial on the drum in the front with gradations that you can go back to for repeated leveling. With the top and bottom rollers a strap won't ride up the bevel or flip up and chop off. The Chases have a thinner blade with what seems like a flatter bevel. I think there is less drag on them and so would be better for patterned pieces. I do think it is better to rough cut and split and then cut the final shape after splitting to avoid distortion. They also have top and bottom rollers and feed well. The Chases are pretty common in 8 and 10 widths. I have a couple of 12" in slightly different styles. I know of one wider than that. The Chases have no gradations to measure, and I keep a thickness gauge close by. I have a 10" and the 12" fastened down. The 10" is pretty much left at 8 oz. The 12" wanders according to need.

One thing to watch is to use the whole width of the blade to wear more evenly. Some guys will put a narrower straps in the same place each time. Some of these oldies will have warps and dips in the rollers or feedwheels on the handcranks from wear in just one area. Some blades will have 1/8" or more cupping in the center of the leading edge of the blade from being sharpened just where it was used the most.

[cem]

Thanks Bruce

Mmm decisions decisions thinking about it now with your suggestion it would probably be better for me to rough cut, split then click my final shape. The problem I have is there is no where I can try out a splitter even a crappy Tandy one so I'm hoping that I can narrow it down while my sister is still in America so I can get her to bring me a decent one back the likelyhood of that though unless it's from a shop is probably going to be remote so I'm probably just going to have to be patient.

The widest point on my biggest pattern is 15cm (approx 6 inches) but this is the paper pattern and on the clickers I have had made for previous patterns they have been 2-3mm wider so a 6 inch machine is now definately out. So would there be enough room on an eight inch or should I go looking for a 10.

Cheers

Clair

[rcsaddles]

I was just looking at the Ferdco.com swap board and there is one of these splitters for sale. Looks exactly like mine. Just an FYI to those who may be interested.

Joe

Marvin's splitter sounds ideal. I gave Marvin a call and left a message. If possible, would you be able to post a picture of your splitter?

Ed

[cem]

Thanks for the heads up Joe, I didn't realise it had a motor though so it wouldn't be suitable for me as I only have a small space to work in.

I think I'm just going to be patient and get a Weaver in a few months, I found someone in Australia who has one and they seem very happy with it. I emailed a few places about a Landis and the prices I was given were alot higher than what has been stated here ie I might as well buy a new Weaver. Also having some wrist problems at the moment so I don't think using a pull type one is in my best interests as I do illustration work at my day job, the Weaver one is also in my size range for everything I make so I wouldn't need another splitter.

Cheers,

Clair

[rcsaddles]

The local saddle maker/shoe repair guy had one of the Weaver splitters and he is ready to send it back. He has talked to Weaver about it and they don't seem to understand what is wrong with it and he can't explain it. I have encouraged him to take it to Sheridan to let Vernon look it over and adjust it but he is a little or a lot bull headed about it.

I'm not trying to give Weaver a bad rep or anthing, just what I am seeing here. The new splitters that Marvin makes do not have motors. They are hand crank so will take up less room. The older ones he put the motors on.