Cracked Leather after Fiebings Oil Dye and Satin Sheen

[ntex2000]

I've just had the same trouble as someone else who posted a similar problem. however, his problem was with using old leather.

I have just started making strap goods, headstalls, halters, breast collars, etc. and I recently made a replacement throat latch for a headstall, which was cut 3/8' wide by 47" long from a new hide of 7-8 veg. I used Fiebings pro oil saddle tandye, thinned down with denatured alcohol at a ratio of 1 part dye to 2 parts alcohol. I applied a heavy coat of dye to both sides, and after the dye dried I applied two coats of satin sheen. I DID NOT condition the strap with neatsfoot oil between dyeing and applying the satin sheen.

In fact, I never assumed that you could apply any type of conditioner to the the leather prior to putting on your top coat. This wold appear to be the solution to my problem.

After everything dried, I found the entire strap to be hard and brittle. I tried bending it to soften it up but the top grain side layer cracked at each place I bent the leather, which was all up and down the 47" length.

I've had this problem with other strap pieces of varying thicknesses and from different hides. I assumed the problem was the heavy coat of dye with all that alcohol in it was the cause of the leather drying out and becoming hard. I also thought the satin sheen may have been part of the problem.

But...no matter which color of Fiebings dye I use, the strap leather I dye always curls at the edges. Is this supposed to happen? I'm talking straps that range from 1/2 inch to 1 inch in width.

As an experiment, I'm going to dye another strap from that same hide the same way I did the throatlatch, but this time I will apply a liberal coat of neatsfoot oil to the grain side after the dye had dried and will then airbrush two coats of satin sheen on over that.

[Hedge]

I've just had the same trouble as someone else who posted a similar problem. however, his problem was with using old leather.

I have just started making strap goods, headstalls, halters, breast collars, etc. and I recently made a replacement throat latch for a headstall, which was cut 3/8' wide by 47" long from a new hide of 7-8 veg. I used Fiebings pro oil saddle tandye, thinned down with denatured alcohol at a ratio of 1 part dye to 2 parts alcohol. I applied a heavy coat of dye to both sides, and after the dye dried I applied two coats of satin sheen. I DID NOT condition the strap with neatsfoot oil between dyeing and applying the satin sheen.

In fact, I never assumed that you could apply any type of conditioner to the the leather prior to putting on your top coat. This wold appear to be the solution to my problem.

After everything dried, I found the entire strap to be hard and brittle. I tried bending it to soften it up but the top grain side layer cracked at each place I bent the leather, which was all up and down the 47" length.

I've had this problem with other strap pieces of varying thicknesses and from different hides. I assumed the problem was the heavy coat of dye with all that alcohol in it was the cause of the leather drying out and becoming hard. I also thought the satin sheen may have been part of the problem.

But...no matter which color of Fiebings dye I use, the strap leather I dye always curls at the edges. Is this supposed to happen? I'm talking straps that range from 1/2 inch to 1 inch in width.

As an experiment, I'm going to dye another strap from that same hide the same way I did the throatlatch, but this time I will apply a liberal coat of neatsfoot oil to the grain side after the dye had dried and will then airbrush two coats of satin sheen on over that.

Don't go too liberal with the oil. And give it time, at least over night, to soak in before you do the top coat.

I've not noticed any curl after dying, but it makes sense if you really pile on the dye.

There is another member who mixes his dyes with Neatsfoot oil before applying it to the leather. Can't remember the thread.

Hedge

[pete]

mix your dye with Bick's #4. It will go on evenly,and will condition the leather. It will be soft and supple as and when it dries.

pete

[ntex2000]

mix your dye with Bick's #4. It will go on evenly,and will condition the leather. It will be soft and supple as and when it dries.

pete

How many parts Bicks #4 to dye should I mix in?

Thanks!

[pete]

I have one of those Sunny Delight lunchbox bottles and pour in bick's about 2/3 the way. then I pour in about 1/2 oz. (1/2 shot glass) at a time of dye.

don't shake it but swirl it and test it. If you need more add a little at a time and swirl again. It will look lighter and milkier on a sponge/wool so try it on a piece of leather. RUB it on and you will see the color almost immediately- it doesn't darken as it dries!

pete

[celticleather]

The thread about mixing dye with neatsfoot oil is here

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...amp;#entry89246