Members Rayban Posted March 17, 2009 Author Members Report Posted March 17, 2009 Thanks again Stitcher, and all... It is the Mercury-120-1....tonight when I get home I'll check the size of the needle and I'll try using your thread combo .....I like 277 on top because it pretty much resembles the size I use to hand stitch. But I've also been using 277 in the bobbin too. I've copied your helpful tips and stuck them into the manual... R Quote Raybanwww.rgleather.net
Members Rayban Posted March 17, 2009 Author Members Report Posted March 17, 2009 Hidepounder,Where do you get Barge and Masters cement? Is this a contact cement? or is it something for leather? Fred Fred, just my 2 cents....I've been using DAP Weldwood Gel formula contact cement, and it works great. You can get it at Lowes or Home Depot and comes in a few different size containers. Quote Raybanwww.rgleather.net
hidepounder Posted March 17, 2009 Report Posted March 17, 2009 (edited) Hidepounder,Where do you get Barge and Masters cement? Is this a contact cement? or is it something for leather? Fred Rayban, I use contact adhesives so I don't think the glue is even an issue when sewing. They are dry when used and I have never experienced any sticking to the needle. FredF, I use to buy both from Tandy. Barge has changed their formula, so now I'm using Masters, which I also buy from Tandy. I almost like the Masters, better. Both are contact cements and are used for leather. Edited March 17, 2009 by hidepounder Quote
Members LAPat Posted March 17, 2009 Members Report Posted March 17, 2009 A little off topic, but Is Barges (old formula) going the way of the dodo? I got it from Weaver and they sent it to California ground, I thought it was outlawed here or something. The new formula Barge doesn't really seem to be a contact cement, but an acrylic paint of sorts.... I hate it. I use glue while sewing and I have not had a problem. I just make sure it's dry. In fact, I just used glue for lining for a while, and I think it will hold just fine. Of course, I am an opitimistic sort. Pat Quote
Members LAPat Posted March 17, 2009 Members Report Posted March 17, 2009 Me again. I guess this is the same general thread, so I will ask here. I have Pfaff 545 and I have been using it mostly to sew sheepskin. I have no idea what thread I'm using, nor needle either for that matter, it's probably a 140. Can anyone tell me the sizes of thread I might use for the machine, and if I need to use thicker thread on thicker leather. Also, do you all use leather point needles or regular point? Really, it's amazing how much you can do without knowing what you are doing. But I have a feeling that being the case, once I actually do things right, ( like finally getting a servo motor for the machine) I am going to be much, much more efficient. Quote
Members Rayban Posted March 17, 2009 Author Members Report Posted March 17, 2009 A little off topic, but Is Barges (old formula) going the way of the dodo? I got it from Weaver and they sent it to California ground, I thought it was outlawed here or something. The new formula Barge doesn't really seem to be a contact cement, but an acrylic paint of sorts.... I hate it. I use glue while sewing and I have not had a problem. I just make sure it's dry.In fact, I just used glue for lining for a while, and I think it will hold just fine. Of course, I am an opitimistic sort. Pat Pat, Stitchers will be along shortly to help you with that.... Stitchers...I have a 200 needle on, and was running 277 thread top and btm...... Quote Raybanwww.rgleather.net
Lobo Posted March 18, 2009 Report Posted March 18, 2009 For years I used Fiebings Tanners Bond cement, very strong stuff indeed. I ran out and, rather than hold up production while waiting for a shipment, I bought a bottle of Elmer's Glue All (the white stuff in the applicator tip bottle) and used it on several items. It worked just great! I have never seen any indication that the glue will do anything to the sewing machine or needle. Of course, the glue has thoroughly dried before I start sewing (I make 20 to 30 items per week, so I do everything in stages: cutting, assembly--includes gluing, sewing, forming, finishing, etc) and it is usually at least a day or two after gluing that it goes on to sewing. Good old Elmer's! Stuff doesn't have to come from a leather supply company, or with a big price tag, to do a good job. Quote Lobo Gun Leather serious equipment for serious business, since 1972 www.lobogunleather.com
Members JedidiahRice Posted September 24, 2014 Members Report Posted September 24, 2014 Did you ever find out what size of thread and needles you can run through this machine? I am considering buying one but am curious how heavy of material I can run through it. Me again.I guess this is the same general thread, so I will ask here.I have Pfaff 545 and I have been using it mostly to sew sheepskin. I have no idea what thread I'm using, nor needle either for that matter, it's probably a 140.Can anyone tell me the sizes of thread I might use for the machine, and if I need to use thicker thread on thicker leather.Also, do you all use leather point needles or regular point?Really, it's amazing how much you can do without knowing what you are doing. But I have a feeling that being the case, once I actually do things right, ( like finally getting a servo motor for the machine) I am going to be much, much more efficient. Did you ever find out what size of thread and needles you can run through this machine? I am considering buying one but am curious how heavy of material I can run through it. Quote
Members silverwingit Posted October 18, 2014 Members Report Posted October 18, 2014 If you have any problems with contact cement adhering to the needle, you aren't letting your cement dry enough. Michelle Quote
stelmackr Posted July 15, 2021 Report Posted July 15, 2021 On 3/16/2009 at 8:23 PM, stitchers1 said: From the machine I saw you have a Mercury M-120-1. If that is the machine you have you do need to increase the footbar presser and then it will sew the glued leather. You may have to screw it down quiet a bit to get the machine from flagging. I had forgotten the reasons for "flagging" so I did a quick search and found some good descriptions: http://www.amefird.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/MinimizingThread-BreakageSkips-2-5-10.pdf Quote Bob Stelmack Desert Leathercraft LLC Former Editor of the, RawHide Gazette, for the Puget Sound Leather Artisans Co-Op, 25 years of doing it was enough...
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