Rayban Report post Posted March 15, 2009 I have always glued my work together prior to hand stitching....now that I am learning to stitch on my machine....is it a no-no to glue? Will the thread/needle/anything else I can't see get all gummed up and so on.....making life even more frustration while learning the machine? Thanks for your comments. R Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikePatterson Report post Posted March 15, 2009 (edited) It's the same as when handstiching, glue needs to be used to hold items in place as you sew. You can also use small tacks in order to hold things togeather and pull them out as you go. Enjoy your machine!!! Edited March 15, 2009 by MikePatterson Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Randy Cornelius Report post Posted March 15, 2009 I will glue most items before sewing just as was said before, to hold everything together. With machine stitching the bottom piece will tend to pull under. If possible leave the bottom piece just a little further out than the top to prevent the bottom piece from pulling back under. When I do not want glue on the item, like sewing purses that I sew inside out and them later turn right side out. I will hold them together with binder clips and remove them as I sew. I buy these by the box full from office supply stores. They work great for all kinds of things where you need an extra set of hands. Randy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stitchers1 Report post Posted March 16, 2009 I have always glued my work together prior to hand stitching....now that I am learning to stitch on my machine....is it a no-no to glue? Will the thread/needle/anything else I can't see get all gummed up and so on.....making life even more frustration while learning the machine?Thanks for your comments. R Hi, Im new to the site but know a little about sewing machines. What machine do you have and what size thread and needle are you using and alos what type of leather are you sewing? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hidepounder Report post Posted March 16, 2009 Rayban...my theory is if you want two pieces held together, why not use the stongest bond possible? So when I sew, it's after I have glued using Barge or Masters cement. Occasionally I'll have a repair item come in that's been glued this way and after removing the stitches, the pieces are still well bonded together with just the glue. So unless you are making something that you want to be able to disassemble easily, I say glue it! Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rayban Report post Posted March 17, 2009 (edited) Stichers, it's this Chinese knock-off of a Singer K45 as I understand it....I'm using 277 thread (?) and i don't know the needle size but is about 1/16" thick. Most of my work is two or three layers of 8-10oz. It seems to be working well enough for me... but my main concern is the affects of glue on the machine/needle, etc. Will the glue gum up the needle, hence the thread, bobbin, etc?? Edited March 17, 2009 by Rayban Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FredF Report post Posted March 17, 2009 Hidepounder, Where do you get Barge and Masters cement? Is this a contact cement? or is it something for leather? Fred Rayban...my theory is if you want two pieces held together, why not use the stongest bond possible? So when I sew, it's after I have glued using Barge or Masters cement. Occasionally I'll have a repair item come in that's been glued this way and after removing the stitches, the pieces are still well bonded together with just the glue. So unless you are making something that you want to be able to disassemble easily, I say glue it!Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stitchers1 Report post Posted March 17, 2009 From the machine I saw you have a Mercury M-120-1. If that is the machine you have you do need to increase the footbar presser and then it will sew the glued leather. You may have to screw it down quiet a bit to get the machine from flagging. It will depend on what machine you have. What happens is the needle generates heat as is punches ant hole for the thread. The thread will sometimes stick to the glue as the needle takes it down through the hole. The thread then can stick to the side of the hole and cannot let the machne throw the proper size loop for the hook to catch and make the stitch. Try going to one size needle bigger. It gives the thread more clearance between the leather and the needle and will allow the machine to throw the proper loop so it can complete its stitch. Watch the presser feet when they are on the material as it is making a stitch. If the presser feet raise with the needle then all you need to do is increase your foot bar pressure by tightening the knob just above the foot bar until the feet do not lift when the needle is coming out of the leather. Hope it helps Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stitchers1 Report post Posted March 17, 2009 Needle and thread combinations 346 top 277 bottom - 328S #230 277 top 207 bottom - 328S #200 207 top 138 bobbin - 328 S #180 138 top 138 bobbin - 328S #160 i do not suggest you use any size smaller than 138 on this machine Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tonyc1 Report post Posted March 17, 2009 I've never ever had trouble sewing leather that has been stuck together with contact cement or Duall 88 and I use needles #160 - 230. The only time I have had trouble similar to that was once when I tried to use the double sided adhesive tape and gave up in frustration as that used to stick to the needle and I've never used tape since. Tony. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rayban Report post Posted March 17, 2009 Thanks again Stitcher, and all... It is the Mercury-120-1....tonight when I get home I'll check the size of the needle and I'll try using your thread combo .....I like 277 on top because it pretty much resembles the size I use to hand stitch. But I've also been using 277 in the bobbin too. I've copied your helpful tips and stuck them into the manual... R Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rayban Report post Posted March 17, 2009 Hidepounder,Where do you get Barge and Masters cement? Is this a contact cement? or is it something for leather? Fred Fred, just my 2 cents....I've been using DAP Weldwood Gel formula contact cement, and it works great. You can get it at Lowes or Home Depot and comes in a few different size containers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hidepounder Report post Posted March 17, 2009 (edited) Hidepounder,Where do you get Barge and Masters cement? Is this a contact cement? or is it something for leather? Fred Rayban, I use contact adhesives so I don't think the glue is even an issue when sewing. They are dry when used and I have never experienced any sticking to the needle. FredF, I use to buy both from Tandy. Barge has changed their formula, so now I'm using Masters, which I also buy from Tandy. I almost like the Masters, better. Both are contact cements and are used for leather. Edited March 17, 2009 by hidepounder Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LAPat Report post Posted March 17, 2009 A little off topic, but Is Barges (old formula) going the way of the dodo? I got it from Weaver and they sent it to California ground, I thought it was outlawed here or something. The new formula Barge doesn't really seem to be a contact cement, but an acrylic paint of sorts.... I hate it. I use glue while sewing and I have not had a problem. I just make sure it's dry. In fact, I just used glue for lining for a while, and I think it will hold just fine. Of course, I am an opitimistic sort. Pat Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LAPat Report post Posted March 17, 2009 Me again. I guess this is the same general thread, so I will ask here. I have Pfaff 545 and I have been using it mostly to sew sheepskin. I have no idea what thread I'm using, nor needle either for that matter, it's probably a 140. Can anyone tell me the sizes of thread I might use for the machine, and if I need to use thicker thread on thicker leather. Also, do you all use leather point needles or regular point? Really, it's amazing how much you can do without knowing what you are doing. But I have a feeling that being the case, once I actually do things right, ( like finally getting a servo motor for the machine) I am going to be much, much more efficient. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rayban Report post Posted March 17, 2009 A little off topic, but Is Barges (old formula) going the way of the dodo? I got it from Weaver and they sent it to California ground, I thought it was outlawed here or something. The new formula Barge doesn't really seem to be a contact cement, but an acrylic paint of sorts.... I hate it. I use glue while sewing and I have not had a problem. I just make sure it's dry.In fact, I just used glue for lining for a while, and I think it will hold just fine. Of course, I am an opitimistic sort. Pat Pat, Stitchers will be along shortly to help you with that.... Stitchers...I have a 200 needle on, and was running 277 thread top and btm...... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lobo Report post Posted March 18, 2009 For years I used Fiebings Tanners Bond cement, very strong stuff indeed. I ran out and, rather than hold up production while waiting for a shipment, I bought a bottle of Elmer's Glue All (the white stuff in the applicator tip bottle) and used it on several items. It worked just great! I have never seen any indication that the glue will do anything to the sewing machine or needle. Of course, the glue has thoroughly dried before I start sewing (I make 20 to 30 items per week, so I do everything in stages: cutting, assembly--includes gluing, sewing, forming, finishing, etc) and it is usually at least a day or two after gluing that it goes on to sewing. Good old Elmer's! Stuff doesn't have to come from a leather supply company, or with a big price tag, to do a good job. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JedidiahRice Report post Posted September 24, 2014 Did you ever find out what size of thread and needles you can run through this machine? I am considering buying one but am curious how heavy of material I can run through it. Me again.I guess this is the same general thread, so I will ask here.I have Pfaff 545 and I have been using it mostly to sew sheepskin. I have no idea what thread I'm using, nor needle either for that matter, it's probably a 140.Can anyone tell me the sizes of thread I might use for the machine, and if I need to use thicker thread on thicker leather.Also, do you all use leather point needles or regular point?Really, it's amazing how much you can do without knowing what you are doing. But I have a feeling that being the case, once I actually do things right, ( like finally getting a servo motor for the machine) I am going to be much, much more efficient. Did you ever find out what size of thread and needles you can run through this machine? I am considering buying one but am curious how heavy of material I can run through it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
silverwingit Report post Posted October 18, 2014 If you have any problems with contact cement adhering to the needle, you aren't letting your cement dry enough. Michelle Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stelmackr Report post Posted July 15, 2021 On 3/16/2009 at 8:23 PM, stitchers1 said: From the machine I saw you have a Mercury M-120-1. If that is the machine you have you do need to increase the footbar presser and then it will sew the glued leather. You may have to screw it down quiet a bit to get the machine from flagging. I had forgotten the reasons for "flagging" so I did a quick search and found some good descriptions: http://www.amefird.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/MinimizingThread-BreakageSkips-2-5-10.pdf Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
