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Posted

It has been a while since I have posted any pictures. This was a Tandy kit. As usual, there were a few issues with the kit. I generally throw out the leather that comes with the kits, as the quality is about equil to cardboard. I started carving the piece that came with this one, but by the time I had it carved I decided that the piece would make a better templet than a carving. I replaced it with a piece of leather I had from a better quality hide. It was tooled using the pattern in the kit, The only changes I made in it was I added basket weave to the center of the circle in the back. It just looked so bare.It is antiqued with Sheridan Brown Feibings paste antique, applied over two layers of RTC finish. After it was assembled, I realized that the pattern should have been shifted about 3/8"-1/2" down. Also the hole punched for the snap was in the wrong place (it is a little too tight when closing). I also did not use the incorectly spaced round holes for the lacing. Unfortionatly you can see them on the inside.

Aaron

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Posted

Purse looks very good!!

The colour them is nice and well matched with the dualtone braid!

Nice carving too!

Tom

Posted

Nice Job Aaron like the two tone lacing. :thumbsup:

Mark

Posted

Thanks guys. I started two tone lacing most of my work a while back. It always seems to draw attention. It is not really any harder than regular lacing, but gives things a unique look.

Posted
It has been a while since I have posted any pictures. This was a Tandy kit. As usual, there were a few issues with the kit. I generally throw out the leather that comes with the kits, as the quality is about equil to cardboard. I started carving the piece that came with this one, but by the time I had it carved I decided that the piece would make a better templet than a carving. I replaced it with a piece of leather I had from a better quality hide. It was tooled using the pattern in the kit, The only changes I made in it was I added basket weave to the center of the circle in the back. It just looked so bare.It is antiqued with Sheridan Brown Feibings paste antique, applied over two layers of RTC finish. After it was assembled, I realized that the pattern should have been shifted about 3/8"-1/2" down. Also the hole punched for the snap was in the wrong place (it is a little too tight when closing). I also did not use the incorectly spaced round holes for the lacing. Unfortionatly you can see them on the inside.

Aaron

Aaron is hard to get the two tone to go around corners? I know I have trouble trying to do it with the Mexican round braid. Love the look. I'm gonna have to try it.

Tom

Posted
Aaron is hard to get the two tone to go around corners? I know I have trouble trying to do it with the Mexican round braid. Love the look. I'm gonna have to try it.

Tom

The two tone laces just like double loop lacing, you just keep switching laces every other one. The pattern I used is the same one as you used on your wallet, just used two laces instead of one. So corners are just as easy/hard as regular lacing. I generally round the corner a little (very little, about 1/8" radius) and then hit two of the holes twice. If I am trying to get a pointed corner I round hole punch the corner and hit it 4 times.

Posted
The two tone laces just like double loop lacing, you just keep switching laces every other one. The pattern I used is the same one as you used on your wallet, just used two laces instead of one. So corners are just as easy/hard as regular lacing. I generally round the corner a little (very little, about 1/8" radius) and then hit two of the holes twice. If I am trying to get a pointed corner I round hole punch the corner and hit it 4 times.

Well heres my stab at it. I'm not going to use 2 tone on this project but I used it just to try it out. The only thing I had to work with. Your right it is easy to work with but I had to get out the book and I haven't done a corner yet. Thanks again for your help.

Tom

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Posted
Well heres my stab at it. I'm not going to use 2 tone on this project but I used it just to try it out. The only thing I had to work with. Your right it is easy to work with but I had to get out the book and I haven't done a corner yet. Thanks again for your help.

Tom

When you get to the corner do the same thing as you are doing but double hit the 3 holes on your corner. Think of it like you are moving forward, just overlap. The trick with the two colors is when you are coming around the last corner count forward to make sure that the two tone pattern will meet corectly on the last stitch. If is does not, simply add an extra double hit on the final corner hole.

What you have done so far looks great!

  • 4 weeks later...
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Posted
----- This was a Tandy kit. As usual, there were a few issues with the kit. I generally throw out the leather that comes with the kits, -----

Aaron

Aaron,

I am new to Leathercraft and am taking lessons at my local Tandy. I was wondering why you buy the kit if you normally use other leather? It seems to me that if you wanted better leather than comes with the kits, you would just buy the leather you want and get your patter elsewhere. What am I missing?

Thanks,

Mike

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Posted

looks fantastic good work

Posted
Aaron,

I am new to Leathercraft and am taking lessons at my local Tandy. I was wondering why you buy the kit if you normally use other leather? It seems to me that if you wanted better leather than comes with the kits, you would just buy the leather you want and get your patter elsewhere. What am I missing?

Thanks,

Mike

I wanted the insert to the kit. Tandy sells some inserts without the outter pieces, but only on a few items. Inserts are one if the hardest things to make and have the item look "factory" and not home made.

The leather that is included with the kits is the worst of the worst. Newcomers can easily be discouraged from continuing after dealing with the frustration of carving cardboard and not quality leather (I do not buy leahter from Tandy either, it is a shame).

  • Members
Posted
...

The leather that is included with the kits is the worst of the worst. Newcomers can easily be discouraged from continuing after dealing with the frustration of carving cardboard and not quality leather (I do not buy leahter from Tandy either, it is a shame).

So far I have been buying pieces of Tandy's best leather for practice. When I figured out the cost difference between it and their cheaper leather it was only a couple of cents per square inch.

If you do not buy leather at Tandy, where to you suggest that I buy leather?

Thanks,

Mike

Posted
So far I have been buying pieces of Tandy's best leather for practice. When I figured out the cost difference between it and their cheaper leather it was only a couple of cents per square inch.

If you do not buy leather at Tandy, where to you suggest that I buy leather?

Thanks,

Mike

Tandy's best leather is usable. As something to learn on, it is OK. There are many on here that know way more about this than I do, that can tell you other vendors. I generally buy Herman Oak leather. There is a local store that carries it. Kevin (Springfield Leather) is on here and has been very helpfull, try talking to him.

Aaron

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Posted
Tandy's best leather is usable. As something to learn on, it is OK. There are many on here that know way more about this than I do, that can tell you other vendors. I generally buy Herman Oak leather. There is a local store that carries it. Kevin (Springfield Leather) is on here and has been very helpfull, try talking to him.

Aaron

Aaron,

Thank you very much.

Mike

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