Chrome tanned leather sheaths

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

JamesR, to answer your question to the best of my knowledge, if you are certain it is 100% veg tanned, you should be good to go.

TwinOaks, I know that wasn't what you were referring to. I just thought my post was somewhat relevant to the thread. I agree with your assessment on the use of the rough side. That is how I construct my IWB holsters:

I even use it on my belt holsters:

[JamesR]

When I mentioned "rough out" holsters, I didn't mean a lined holster. I mean you build the holster with the grain side towards the weapon. The flesh side is what's visible when looking at the holster. There's a few advantages to this type of holster as an IWB. #1: It's pretty ugly. That's good because I'm more concerned about function in an IWB. For OWBs I'll do pretty. #2 Having the grain side in presents a smoother surface to the weapon. Smooth is good- less friction, better draw. And, since the grain is already "in" there's no need to line it to achieve the same thing. That cuts down on thickness, making the holster more comfortable.#3: With the flesh side out, there's more friction to help hold the holster IN the pants. Anybody ever try to draw and pull the holster up a bit too?

Of course, proper attention should be paid to molding, and I like the idea of a thumb strap. I don't always use one, but I like the idea.

Now that that's all out of the way.....Yes, rough out holsters can be molded, dyed, finished, et al. It's just like any other veg tan....just inside out.

Twinoaks,

Thanks for the info. Please excuse my ignorance but "IWB" and "OWB" means? I am an amateur who is trying to come up to speed. The first step to learning is to find out how much you do not know and for me regarding leatherworking its a lot. I see your point about function first because I am of the same opinion. Thank again for any help.

[JamesR]

JamesR, to answer your question to the best of my knowledge, if you are certain it is 100% veg tanned, you should be good to go.

TwinOaks, I know that wasn't what you were referring to. I just thought my post was somewhat relevant to the thread. I agree with your assessment on the use of the rough side. That is how I construct my IWB holsters:

I even use it on my belt holsters:

BOOMSTICKholster,

Those are some beautiful holsters. Are they rough side out? How do you get that finish?

Thanks

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

The front of the holsters with the snaps and the clips are rough out. They are sanded (but not pasted) Hermann Oak leather. The back of the holsters with belt slots are rough out, and they are sanded, pasted, and plated leather from Wickett & Craig. Both finishes get rid of the scruffiness and unevenness on the flesh side of the leather (how's that for technical terms?), leaving the cleaner look that you see on the holsters shown above. The difference is, the sanded only will have a little more aggressive finish which means more friction, and therefore less movement. That is one of the reasons I chose it for IWB (or Inside the WaistBand) holsters, as apposed to the pasted flesh leather. When making holsters in the more traditional way, the pasted flesh will put a smoother finish against the pistol, reducing wear and improving aesthetics. If you are selling holsters for a living, it is worth it in my opinion to spend the extra money on leather with mossed or pasted flesh.

I actually really like the textured look of rough out holsters, and I have considered even making my belt holsters rough out. Forum member Billsotx makes some gorgeous rough out holsters that really make me want to play with the idea more. For now I just need to get caught up before I think about anything else.

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

I have been told the vegtan leathers are too stiff and feel like cardboard on the flesh side!

When you do use veg tanned leather to make your sheaths, try using oil or leather conditioner to soften the leather. While it is a no go for holsters, it is just fine for sheaths. To my knowledge, Robert Loveless uses veg tanned leather and dips it in a neatsfoot oil and wax combination for his sheaths. I really like Lexol or Bick 4 as a leather conditioner for belts, and I would bet it will work to soften a sheath as well.

Sometimes you have to encourage your customers to be realistic about what they are asking for. The knife is going to be a lot harder than cardboard anyhow, and they sure won't want it flopping around because you used leather that was too soft for the application. If the common sense approach doesn't fly, remind them that Jim Bowe and Daniel Boone got along just fine with veg tanned or brain tanned leather.

Edited March 28, 2009 by BOOMSTICKHolsters