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Everything posted by JamesR

  1. Completed a homemade strap and belt punching jig. It is made of polyethylene (UHMW). It has slot for 3/4", 1", 1 1/4" straps. The sliding holders for the punch tools fit snug into their slots but can move freely. I drilled spaced holes exactly centered in the slot. They hold my various punches perpendicular to the leather with no play.
  2. Made two jigs along the way. The first one used a mat cutter and a related straight edge ruler. The mat cutter head travels on the ruler like a track. Two bolts keep the ruler from sliding around. The cutting blade travels through a groove cut into the board. I used the cutter handle that came with the ruler at first, then I modified the cutter and made a sliding block that fit the ruler. My second jig has a 90 degree fence at the top to allow for square cuts. There are different mat cutters on the market. I believe the cutter traveling on a track is the best way to go.
  3. I use 1/8" masonite with a checker patterned back. It is easier to cut then 1/4" and it does not slip around so much.
  4. Very impressive. Great craftwork and artwork combined!
  5. BigSiouxSaddlery, Thank you for the detailed opinion. Very helpful. Jim
  6. Hello, Has anyone used W&C Show harness leather as opposed to their Tradional harness or bridle leather. It doesn't look as shiny in photos as the Traditional harness but I'm not sure. Also I was wondering if it is as firm as their bridle leather. Thank you.
  7. I am making small cases, eyeglass,cell phone, etc. and I want a snap that open a little easier then ring type snaps.
  8. Thanks mike02130 Are you using their premium setter? It seems a little expensive.
  9. Has anyone used THK (Hasi Hato) segma snaps? RML sells them with setters. I was wondering if they are a high quality item. Thanks https://www.rmleathersupply.com/products/thk-premium-japanese-segma-snaps?variant=13869441548397
  10. Thanks for the comments, I realize a framing square or straight edge can give you the same result. I did it that ways for years. Every once in a while the edge slipped and the cut angled off. I am mainly a furniture builder and wanted to jig up my work to give me accuracy and repeatability. The fixed top piece makes it easy to line up the leather edge for square cuts, the guide rail clamps down on the leather preventing it from slipping. The cutter block travels in a straight line with the blade perpendicular to the leather at all times. Woodworkers build jigs like this all the time. Here are a couple others.
  11. maxdaddy, Yeah, when the leather is thin (under 5oz) it can be a problem. I just put a second piece of scrap under it.
  12. I think it was about $5 per fastener.
  13. I bought mine from ( https://www.sailrite.com. You can also get them from Weaver leather.
  14. New black bridle leather briefcase using Loxx fasteners. They attach easily by punching a 3/8" hole and screwing them together. They are reliable and strong. I really like them. Anyone try them yet, what do you think?
  15. This is my new jig for cutting and squaring off pieces. It was made of plywood and aluminum extrusions. The cutting end was part of a mat cutting device. I removed the grey blade holder and mounted it on block of polyethylene material. The block was routed to fit tightly in the aluminum extrusion so it slides smoothly with no side play. The extrusion can be tightened down to hold the piece in place while cutting. The fixed top piece is at 90 degrees to the piece that holds down the leather which gives me square corners. The mat cutting blades are quite sharp and give clean cuts. There is a groove beneath the blade so it clears the plywood surface with no drag.
  16. Thank you for all the replies. I get the idea that the glue not only holds the work but keeps the edges locked together for a no gap edge finish?
  17. What do you think of the double sided tape for leather instead of glue? I am wondering what the edges look like without the glue?
  18. GeneH Not sure if I follow about the curved vs straight block. I like the idea though of a movable block with a recess (rabbet)on the lower edge to keep the stitch line uniformly spaced from the edge.
  19. Rockoboy, Yes, I like that idea.
  20. Neilmott, Miss Denise You are welcome.
  21. Also, because the aluminum is 1/8" and the saw kerf is also 1/8" it is a very snug fit. The poly does not slide around at all, it really stay put.
  22. HeatherAthebyne, The poly does press down and holds the work quite well. Although the chisels do get stuck sometimes. Scoutmom103, You are welcome.
  23. Thank you all for the kind words. Scoutmom103 I used a piece of plywood and screwed an aluminum angle to the bottom of one side. The aluminum angle is 1/8" thick metal with 1 1/2" legs. One of the legs sticks up to form a stop for the leather. I then used a piece of UHMW poly board. (Similar to cutting board material which could also be used) I cut two grooves (1/8" saw kerfs). The grooves provide the spacing from the edge of the leather for the stitch line. I used two different spacing for thin or thicker leather. The poly board provides an edge for the iron to press up against when using the iron. I use a 10 OZ leather backing piece under my work which can be changed as required. The metal angle is 1/8" thick which is also the thickness of most table saw blades. This makes cutting the grooves easy. Here is a better photo of the bottom showing the support blocks. I hope this helps.
  24. Made this jig to aid in using my Crimson Hides pricking irons. It is a plywood platform with an aluminum angle edge. I use the edge as a stop for my leather pieces to be worked on. It has a thick leather backing piece which the workpiece rests on. It also has a Poly guide strip which fits over the aluminum stop and presses down on the leather piece. The guide strip is grooved for two different stitch spacings to the edge of the work. With the work against the stop, the guide piece presses down on the work and provides an edge to align my iron vertically. The guide also keeps the stitch holes evenly spaced along the edge of leather. I can punch the grain side of one piece and then the flesh side of it's mating piece and my edges stay very closely aligned. This also keeps the angle of the holes parallel to each other which is not possible when the holes are punched from the grain side on both. If the leather is not too thick I can also punch through both pieces at the same time. This jig keeps long stitchlines quite straight. Also these Crimson Hide irons are very fine tools.
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