JamesR

Hello, How do you get the edges of your gussets even with the sides of a bag. I have been taking pains to keep the edges even while I stitch. I understand some folks don't worry about it as much and cut and or sand the edges even. I have made a number of bags but never glued the gussets I understand many folks use contact cement to glue the edges. I'm not crazy about working with most solvent based contact cement. I have sanded and trimmed veg tanned bridle leather edges but latigo doesn't sand too well. So what do you think? Jim

[ Modified mat cutter and mat cutting ruler.

I like it! You could slide flexible tubing over the ends of the handles when in use to prevent the thread from getting caught up. That clamp has potential. I used the hardware of that clamp to make my stitching horse. A lot of stitching ponies are quite flimsy. That clamp is anything but flimsy. You could also put a hinge across the bottom and remove the top screw which would give you a deeper throat. Jim

Grey, I didn't like the way the cutter wobbled when I used it right out of the box. I did use a backing to clear the cutter but it did not help very much. Also without the ruler being fixed in place it was too easy for things to slip. Making my own cutting block, which is always referenced to the groove of the in the surface of the board because the ruler is fixed, gives me great results. The block in addition to keeping the cutter perpendicular to the leather also provides mass which helps keep the cutting stroke smooth. Thanks for the comments. I never really used a mat cutter to cut mat board before so this device was new to me.

I got tired of using various cutting devices and straight edges to make long straight cuts. Too often the cutter drifted away from the straight edge or leaned to the side giving me an edge that was not square. When the cutting device touched a metal straight edge it would dull it. This was my solution. I purchased a Logan mat cutting ruler and straight cutter. I tried using the cutter and ruler the way it came but my results were mixed. The cutter travels in a groove in the ruler. I did not like the fit but the idea was sound. I removed the blade holding part of the cutter and screwed it to a small block of UHMW plastic. UHMW plastic is similar to cutting board plastic just denser. I cut my own groove in the block but produced a lip that provided a very snug fit in the ruler. UHMW is very low friction material so even though it is a tight fit it slides easily with no side play. The block's edges were rounded over and the bottom sanded smooth. The block travels in the ruler's groove,presses down on the leather and maintains the razor cutting edge perpendicular to the face of the leather. Because the block is so smooth it does not damage the surface of the leather at all. I mounted the ruler to a 2' x 4' piece of poly board I had. I attached flathead screws from the bottom of the surface to line up with the holes in the ruler. The nuts holding the screws fit under the recess of the ruler allowing it to lay flat. The ruler is removable. It is lifted up to position the piece and then dropped over the bolts. This eliminates any side to side movement of the ruler. I also cut a groove in the cutting board surface to provide clearance for the razor cutter. The cutter never contacts the cutting surface which really cuts down on blade drag and increases the life of the cutter. It works better then I had hoped for. The bottom of the ruler has rubber strips which help keep the leather from slipping. The blade holder has two depth setting which allow the blade to project 5/16" (20/64") deep. I have cut 12 oz. bridle with little effort. When I use it I press down on the ruler which holds the leather in place and slide the block with moderate downward pressure. It works so well I can even cut lace with it (1/4' wide see photos). Since both edges of the ruler are parallel I use a large square on the opposite edge when I want to make right angle corner cuts. Jim

Nigel, Your videos have convinced me to try a traditional pricking iron. So far I have only used an overstitch wheel. I can see some practice is in order. Thanks again. Jim

Thanks, The light gave me the idea for the upright. I was leaning my work piece aganist the light to hold it in an upright position but sometimes the light would move.

Thanks Nigel, I know you scribe a line before using the iron and I believe you straddle the line with the tool. Any advice on how to keep the tool centered on the line? Looks like you are doing it by eye.

A new stitching pony. Made of white ash.

I made these blocks for punching the ends of straps and belts. The narrow groove holds the strap while the wider groove keeps the punch centered. The wider groove is recessed to allow for a backing strip of leather to protect the cutting edge. Jim

Sometimes there is just too much leather to fit in the stitching horse. Or maybe you need to work on a completed piece. i don't know what others do but this was my solution. I added an upright, bolted (used wingnuts for easy removal) to the side of the workbench/seat. I can tie off an item or use spring clips to hold a large piece of leather out of my way. I built the stitching horse and bench a few years ago this was just an add on. Oh yeah the Luxo lamp is a big help. Jim

Would anyone know what size cord would work best with a Balnchard #5 (5spi) pricking iron? I understand that there is a relationship between the cord size and the size of the slit produced. Can anyone shed some light on this? Thank you

Art, Thanks for the heads up on those Finess tools. I don't think I like their pricking iron but I really like the quarter round punches for corners. Jim

terrymac, Thanks,I did not know Nigel was lefthanded. I will have to look at his videos more closely. Tugadude, Thanks also, that was useful info. Jim The left handed issue comes up often in a right hand world. These pricking irons are quite expensive so I did not want any surprises

Hello, I am left handed which can be a problem with some tools. I want to try using a pricking iron (Blanchard or Dixon) instead of the overstitch wheel I have been using to mark my holes. It seems to me that the angled holes produced would face in an opposte direction for a left handed person. Is this true and does this complicate the stitching process? Are there any other issues left handers need to know before investing in a tool like this? Thank You Jim

Ok, So is there any way to compare Tiger thread to round thread like Maine thread or Barbours linen thread so I have an idea just how thick it is? Is there any relationship between linen cord size and Tiger thread? thanks

Hello, I am a little confused about the relative sizes of stitching cord. A number of people have commented that they use "Tiger Thread" at 1MM size. Now according to the "Thread Exchange" polyester information page the largest commercial cord size is size 554 which they say is .83MM. Tiger thread comes is sizes up to 1.7MM 1.7MM would be .066 inches. The largest polyester from Maine thread is .050 inches which might look OK at 5 or 4 SPI What would you use 1.7MM for? Can someone shed some light on this? Thanks Jim

chriscraft, Great explanation! I understand the difference now. Thanks to all for the replies. Jim

I thought "top grain" was leather that had a layer removed from the flesh side to get the desired thickness. I did not know glue was involved. I just want to be accurate when I describe my products. thanks Jim

Hello, If you purchase full grain leather and have it split(reduced in thickness) what would it be called then? Would your products be using top grain, split grain or still full grain? Thank You Jim

Hello, Is chap leather as supple and soft as latigo? I am looking for a veg tanned leather that has a soft temper. Thank You Jim

Hello, What is the difference between a "Trace" punch and an "Oblong" punch? Thank You

All of the latigo I have used is veg retanned using both chrome and bark. I understand some latigo (Hermann oak and W&C) do not use chrome in the tanning process. How does this vegetable tanned only latigo compare to the latigo that is tanned with chrome. Thanks Jim

I really want to get some of those collar fasteners but Weaver is sold out. Does anyone know of another supplier? Thanks Jim PS That is a very fine 1st attempt!

Hello, Has anyone ever tried cutting leather with a board mounted mat cutter? The cutter head travels along a track or edge and can make very straight cuts. It seems like it would be a good way to square off a piece of leather. Jim