JamesR
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Everything posted by JamesR
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http://www.dotfasteners.com/index.html They make different length posts. I use the Press-n-snap tool, it works great.
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I know in Stolhman's book on stitching he advises that the stitch line be the same distance as the total thickness of the sewn parts. I can see how this might not look right on some sheaths or holsters. I guess my question really has to do with the strength of the stitchline. Depending on the cord size,spi and awl size how much leather does one need to the edge for strength. I imagine the grain of the leather might also be relevant.
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Smokeypoint, Thank you for another way of looking at this. .4" seems like a lot but it looks good in you photo. How heavy was the cord you used?
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George, Just briefcases and shoulder bags, no hard cases. Last piece I had was 8 oz. I will drop down to 6 oz. and see what it is like. Thanks again Jim
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Thanks to both of you. I guess I will stick with bridle. I was looking for something that might be more flexible for the same weight as bridle. W&C will "stake" the leather to soften it. Do you think staking makes it harder to burnish an edge?
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George3, I like W&C bridle too. It is what I have been using. I was wondering how different their harness would be. When you say water proof do you mean the harness leather has more oil or wax?
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I want to try some russet colored harness leather for a briefcase. Would this be a good choice or should I stick with bridle leather? How do they differ?
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Thanks again!
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Thanks for the tip on the glue. I never would have considered the heat issue. One more thing, I know I can cut the metal with carbide saw blades but can you profile it with routers? Thanks again.
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Seeing such masterful work like this from you and others on this site is a reality check for me. It shows me how far away from it I am. About the hardware. What are you using to attach the brass and wood together with? I am mainly a woodworker so using wood and brass really interests me. Does brass work as easily as aluminum? Thanks Jim
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Axe Sheath - Copper Rivet Intro
JamesR replied to eby's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
This green corrosion concerns me. I thought it only happened with chrome tanned not veg tanned leather? -
Thanks to both. I like the look of that seam ripper.
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Lets say you need to remove a stitch line without damaging the leather surface. What tools and methods do you use?
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OLDNSLOW Yes this is an old thread. In addition to the different lengths I have found you can use the cap portion as a backing for the turn button.
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Well thank you! For me the ideas are easier then the execution. I really need to work on my stitching skills. Jim
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I don't know, have not tried it. I have seen light with the bottom flap turned out though. Just to clarify I am not contending one way is better then the other. It is just my opinion that the flap closes up the lower corners better. I also prefer the way it looks.
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soccerdad, When I attach it this way the inside flap has "wings" that close up the corners better for me. I used to stitch the lower flap first but recently I started doing the sides first, not sure which is better. The strip running across the bottom helps form the bottom and extends to the edges to meet the flaps on the sides. I make all my cases with a wrap around bottom which I believe is stronger then a wrap around gusset.
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How close to the edge should the stitch line be? It seems to me it would depend somewhat on the leather's thickness. What are your thoughts?
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deloid, I do something like this all the time.
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This is my latest quiver. This Horween latigo is the nicest I have ever used. I wanted to try a completely hand stitched quiver instead of lacing.
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Yes staking softens the leather. W&C offers it. You can see it on their price list. Not sure what tumbled is though?
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When leather is staked does that make is more difficult to finish the edges? I have some staked bridle leather and it seems I can not get as good an edge as I can with some unstaked leather I have. Thank you
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I have been using these two clamps to hold things together for gluing and stitching. The luthiers clamp I borrowed from my woodshop is quite strong and has cork protective faces. I took a Bessey 1" spring clamp which is also quite strong and hot glued furniture leg felt to the jaws. I like to keep one of these hanging above my stitching horse to hold things out of the way. Now I have only used them on bridle leather and latigo but they leave no dents or scars. The deep throat on the luthiers clamp is handy for gluing billets that are not too close to an edge. Jim
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Thank you for the replies I have a Bisonette but it rounds the edge. I was thinking more of getting the two layers flat. The alignment marks sound like a good idea. While we are talking about gussets do you glue them as a temporary measure to keep them aligned for stitching or do you expect the glue line to be more permanent. I always assumed it was for alignment but was recently informed that it prevents the two layers from opening up on the edge.
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Chris, Yes that does answer my question. I recently handled some bison hide at about 7 ozs. It had a very soft temper. I don't know if you could turn something that thick inside out but I see what you mean. Thanks