Belts that are sewn by machine

[ABC3]

Tony, I too start & finish at the buckle end. I don't want to start at the belt tip because I want to back-tac & I feel it would be noticeable.

So again if I understand the majority you estimate your target about an inch out from the tip & adjust your stitch length, on your machine, longer or shorter to you hit your target.

[Rayban]

Good reasons to have a rounded tip[ instead of a pointed one......pointed one with take a beating and get dog-eared in time......and rounded one takes the drama out of the stitching.

[ABC3]

Rayban;

good point

[Bree]

Bree,

So you saying you just adjust the stitch length , on the machine (longer or shorter) about an inch from the tip to get to the point of the turn.

Am I reading you correctly ?

Yes I adjust the length but not on the machine dial... just a SWAG of the adjustment needed and bringing the needle down to just above the leather and then using the knee lift to raise the foot slightly and add or subtract a bit from the stitch. It's pretty easy. You are just spacing the adjustment over three or four stitches versus one stitch so it is harder to perceive the difference in length.

Of course as I get older my math gets challenged sometimes so it's only the last inch that I work with!! I suppose the more scientific way would be to know your stitches per inch and compute the deviation several inches out and adjust on the machine so it hits exactly the right point with an ever so slight unnoticeable adjustment. Calls for good math, good measurement, and a very accurate machine capable of very small differences in stitch length. Seems like I am always missing one or more components of that so I just SWAG it.

Edit... I always start at the buckle end so my back stitches are less visible.

Edited March 30, 2009 by Bree