Hi-liter or Antiquing ?

[julian]

I have some Fiebings Hi-lighter and also some Eco-Flo Gel Antique. I'm confused!

They seem to produce a similar effect (filling the carved parts with darker pigment) ... what is the difference if any?

Thanks

[Tina]

I have some Fiebings Hi-lighter and also some Eco-Flo Gel Antique. I'm confused!

They seem to produce a similar effect (filling the carved parts with darker pigment) ... what is the difference if any?

Thanks

The Hi-lite only gets the black stuff in the groves...

The antique also ad some color tho the leather it self...

[wildrose]

Having used both, I can say I prefer the antique. You're right that the effect is very similar. The chief difference I've found is that the hi-liter is...well, liter - LOL. Honestly, that's all I can tell on it.

That antique does have some splotching issues though, somewhat like the old Fiebing's paste. I like Tandy's new raisin mahogany (liquid) antique better.

[jbird]

I would add how you are using them?

Having used both they will give very simalar effects but the antique gives the same look if no block out has been used it adds color and darkens the groves, so for adding color to the leather and geting a dark groove look to it hi liter is better much better for that but using a block out and then antiquing use the Tandy antique for that. That's why I ask how your using them.

Josh

[julian]

I would add how you are using them?

Having used both they will give very simalar effects but the antique gives the same look if no block out has been used it adds color and darkens the groves, so for adding color to the leather and geting a dark groove look to it hi liter is better much better for that but using a block out and then antiquing use the Tandy antique for that. That's why I ask how your using them.

Josh

I'm on my fortieth coaster. Just getting the hang of tooling.

To finish, I've been using Eco-Flo Range Tan as the dye, then sealing with Satin-Shene, then antiquing with Eco-flo Gel Antiquing, the sealing with Super shene again, and again, until I get close to the look I want. I bought the Fiebings hi-lighter as an alternative to the Gel, to see if changed the look ... it seems to work the same , but just not as thick and lighter look...all hand applied with sponge/sheepskin, which seems to pull up some of the previous layer, hence the "layer after layer" technique (maybe a spray Super shene would work better?)

Thanks for the help!!!

[King's X]

Quick question....are you allowing the appropriate time for drying? I allow my super shene to dry at least 24-48 hours before I re-apply. I don't get that raised color issue. As for the satin shene, I didn't like it as a block out. The super works best for me. But I know what you are saying about the lifting because the Tan Kote does this to me everytime I use it?? I must admit that I have used the hi-liter though I thought about it recently.

good luck.

[julian]

Quick question....are you allowing the appropriate time for drying? I allow my super shene to dry at least 24-48 hours before I re-apply. I don't get that raised color issue. As for the satin shene, I didn't like it as a block out. The super works best for me. But I know what you are saying about the lifting because the Tan Kote does this to me everytime I use it?? I must admit that I have used the hi-liter though I thought about it recently.

good luck.

I've been drying overnight (8 hours). Sounds like longer maybe in order ...

[King's X]

It never hurts to just try it. Good luck

[Scary Leatherworks]

I use leather balm for a resist before antiquing. I spray it on with an airbrush, also using spirit dyes. I was having that problem before too. put on the resist and some of the dye would lift when applying by hand. not a problem any longer. I can spray leather balm and in 30-60 minutes I can buff and add another coat usually.

[Aulus]

I think that the High-Liter from Eco-Flo makes a nice "light" saddle Tan, and I like it very much. If I want the cuts darker I apply a little of antique. And I think antique does not work so fast, I have to leave it a longer time on the Leather to get the right colour.

my 2ct

[ComptonCustomInteriors]

I'm working on a wallet at the moment. I have parts Super sheened as a resist/block. I have also used the Eco-Flo Cova Color on some parts. I now want to stain and antique. I have the Fiebings Hi-Liter brown. Although I'm a huge fan of the Antiquing gel, I'm venturing out to try new things. With everything I have read, it appears the Hi-Liter is a liquid form of the antique gel. Pretty much the same affect. What my question is, is how does the Hi-Liter affect the Cova Color?

I have decided that while I am sitting here, I will test it and leave result information here:

Hi-Liter, like many of you have already said, leaves a smooth more refined look compared to that the Medium Brown Antique Gel leaves. The Hi-Liter is lighter in color but looks like coffee with creamer in it. Very nice. It left a very slight color change on the Cova Color (white) with with Super Sheen and not much more without. I globbed it on with a dauber and scrubbed it in very very carelessly too. I wanted to maximize the effect. I did the same thing with the Antique Gel and it did what it does. It destroys everything with aged beauty. So, for the wallet, I chose the Antique. Don't kick my ass too much on this one. It's my first real attempt at Sheridan style tooling and I had to incorporate my style. I hope you guys like it. Thanks in advance.

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Edited December 17, 2015 by ComptonCustomInteriors