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Posted

I have some Fiebings Hi-lighter and also some Eco-Flo Gel Antique. I'm confused!

They seem to produce a similar effect (filling the carved parts with darker pigment) ... what is the difference if any?

Thanks

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Posted
I have some Fiebings Hi-lighter and also some Eco-Flo Gel Antique. I'm confused!

They seem to produce a similar effect (filling the carved parts with darker pigment) ... what is the difference if any?

Thanks

The Hi-lite only gets the black stuff in the groves...

The antique also ad some color tho the leather it self...

"He who works with his hands is a laborer.

He who works with his hands, and his head is a craftsman.

He who works with his hands, and his head, and his heart, is An Artist"

http://vildkorpens-laderlya.deviantart.com

http://tupali.deviantart.com/

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Posted

Having used both, I can say I prefer the antique. You're right that the effect is very similar. The chief difference I've found is that the hi-liter is...well, liter - LOL. Honestly, that's all I can tell on it.

That antique does have some splotching issues though, somewhat like the old Fiebing's paste. I like Tandy's new raisin mahogany (liquid) antique better.

Holly Moore

Wild Rose Creations

http://www.wrcleather.com

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Posted

I would add how you are using them?

Having used both they will give very simalar effects but the antique gives the same look if no block out has been used it adds color and darkens the groves, so for adding color to the leather and geting a dark groove look to it hi liter is better much better for that but using a block out and then antiquing use the Tandy antique for that. That's why I ask how your using them.

Josh

Josh

Dusty Chaps Leather

&

Seven O Saddle Shop

801-809-8456

Keep moving forward! On a horse.

Hebrews 4:12

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Posted
I would add how you are using them?

Having used both they will give very simalar effects but the antique gives the same look if no block out has been used it adds color and darkens the groves, so for adding color to the leather and geting a dark groove look to it hi liter is better much better for that but using a block out and then antiquing use the Tandy antique for that. That's why I ask how your using them.

Josh

I'm on my fortieth coaster. Just getting the hang of tooling.

To finish, I've been using Eco-Flo Range Tan as the dye, then sealing with Satin-Shene, then antiquing with Eco-flo Gel Antiquing, the sealing with Super shene again, and again, until I get close to the look I want. I bought the Fiebings hi-lighter as an alternative to the Gel, to see if changed the look ... it seems to work the same , but just not as thick and lighter look...all hand applied with sponge/sheepskin, which seems to pull up some of the previous layer, hence the "layer after layer" technique (maybe a spray Super shene would work better?)

Thanks for the help!!!

Posted

Quick question....are you allowing the appropriate time for drying? I allow my super shene to dry at least 24-48 hours before I re-apply. I don't get that raised color issue. As for the satin shene, I didn't like it as a block out. The super works best for me. But I know what you are saying about the lifting because the Tan Kote does this to me everytime I use it?? I must admit that I have used the hi-liter though I thought about it recently.

good luck.

Greetings from Central Texas!

The Grain Side Up blog


#TheGrainSideUp

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Posted
Quick question....are you allowing the appropriate time for drying? I allow my super shene to dry at least 24-48 hours before I re-apply. I don't get that raised color issue. As for the satin shene, I didn't like it as a block out. The super works best for me. But I know what you are saying about the lifting because the Tan Kote does this to me everytime I use it?? I must admit that I have used the hi-liter though I thought about it recently.

good luck.

I've been drying overnight (8 hours). Sounds like longer maybe in order ...

Posted

It never hurts to just try it. Good luck

Greetings from Central Texas!

The Grain Side Up blog


#TheGrainSideUp

Posted

I use leather balm for a resist before antiquing. I spray it on with an airbrush, also using spirit dyes. I was having that problem before too. put on the resist and some of the dye would lift when applying by hand. not a problem any longer. I can spray leather balm and in 30-60 minutes I can buff and add another coat usually.

  • 1 month later...
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Posted

I think that the High-Liter from Eco-Flo makes a nice "light" saddle Tan, and I like it very much. If I want the cuts darker I apply a little of antique. And I think antique does not work so fast, I have to leave it a longer time on the Leather to get the right colour.

my 2ct

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