Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Members
Posted

Hi,

So, my approach to dying/finishing my holsters is to apply neatsfoot oil/dye/acrylic resolene (in that order). I wait sufficiently between applications to make sure each application has dried before proceeding. But, I happened upon someone who had a Milt Sparks VMII on them the other day and really admired the finish that they put on their holsters. I'm sure there's some trade secrets in this but, does anyone know how they finish their holsters? Maybe they are using the same standard process and it's all in the leather but, I doubt it. Seems like there's something else that they are doing that I just can't put my finger on.

Any ideas?

Posted
Hi,

So, my approach to dying/finishing my holsters is to apply neatsfoot oil/dye/acrylic resolene (in that order). I wait sufficiently between applications to make sure each application has dried before proceeding. But, I happened upon someone who had a Milt Sparks VMII on them the other day and really admired the finish that they put on their holsters. I'm sure there's some trade secrets in this but, does anyone know how they finish their holsters? Maybe they are using the same standard process and it's all in the leather but, I doubt it. Seems like there's something else that they are doing that I just can't put my finger on.

Any ideas?

It might be as simple as neatsfoot oil and then Tuff Kote (from Weaver).

ed

  • Members
Posted

OK, well, if it's not a product in particular, is it how the product is applied? Is there a buffing process before the acrylic or final finish is applied or is there an additional buffing after the final coat is applied. I don't know. I just won't forget how smoooooth that leather felt.

  • Members
Posted
OK, well, if it's not a product in particular, is it how the product is applied? Is there a buffing process before the acrylic or final finish is applied or is there an additional buffing after the final coat is applied. I don't know. I just won't forget how smoooooth that leather felt.

Top coat can be applied by dauber, airbrush or dipping - it's totally up to you. I airbrush everything and dip small pieces, but will be switching to dipping entirely.

As for buffing, I do so before dying, after dying and after top coat.

  • Members
Posted

Well, most of my stuff is black. And with black there's just about no way to screw it up except to not put on enough. I'm definetly going to be buffing more between applications. I think that might make a difference.

Has anyone actually seen a Milt Sparks holster in person to know what I'm talking about?

  • Members
Posted
Well, most of my stuff is black. And with black there's just about no way to screw it up except to not put on enough. I'm definetly going to be buffing more between applications. I think that might make a difference.

Has anyone actually seen a Milt Sparks holster in person to know what I'm talking about?

I own a Sparks holster. I build my own holsters. I cannot picture what it is you're talking about.

Do you want high gloss? Satin? :dunno: How about a picture of what you're looking at and trying to achieve the look of.

  • Members
Posted
I own a Sparks holster. I build my own holsters. I cannot picture what it is you're talking about.

Do you want high gloss? Satin? :dunno: How about a picture of what you're looking at and trying to achieve the look of.

It's not really the appearance that I'm trying to replicate. I think I can acheive just about anything I need to there. It's really all in the feel and texture of the leather. Buffed out acrylic just doesn't feel the same as the finish on a Milt Sparks. Does this make sense? Maybe it's just the difference between a quality piece of leather.

I did just read a little bit on their website in the FAQ section about maintenance. They mention the use of Angelus Lustre Cream for Black and Cordovan. And, they recommend Renaissance Wax as another option.

Have you ever used either one of these products and could you tell me what the results were?

Looking at their website again, the finish almost looks like a patent leather.

  • Members
Posted

So you guys are air brushing the Resolene? I have been wondering what was the best way to apply the finish without having brush marks or bristles in the finish. Since it is kinda thick it tends to pull the bristles out of my brushes.

SOSHorses

SOS Leatherworks

  • Members
Posted
It's not really the appearance that I'm trying to replicate. I think I can acheive just about anything I need to there. It's really all in the feel and texture of the leather. Buffed out acrylic just doesn't feel the same as the finish on a Milt Sparks. Does this make sense? Maybe it's just the difference between a quality piece of leather.

I did just read a little bit on their website in the FAQ section about maintenance. They mention the use of Angelus Lustre Cream for Black and Cordovan. And, they recommend Renaissance Wax as another option.

Have you ever used either one of these products and could you tell me what the results were?

Looking at their website again, the finish almost looks like a patent leather.

Ok.

I can't attempt to guess, I have no idea. You should contact Mr Kanaley and ask :) You think it looks like patent leather? That's pretty slick and glossy.

I have not had the opportunity to use the products they suggest so I can't comment on the results.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...