9 to 10 oz around a halter square

[Marietje]

I want to make a horse halter acc. to the Tandy pattern, maybe stamp on it to.

How do I get 9 to 10 oz leather neatly around a halter square? Do I wet it first and then fold? Punch holes for hand stitching after that? I find it rather difficult to get it around the square, rings and buckle in a nice way and it is not explained on the pattern.

Thanks for helping me out here.

Edited April 28, 2009 by Marietje

[Kevin]

Yes, you do have to wet it to go around the hardware. If you don't, it will crack at the folds. Depending on the leather, you should probably wet the whole piece or you will get a water stain.

I haven't seen the Tandy pattern, but I would form my piece first and then you know where you will be stitching.

Good Luck,

Kevin

[gary]

I want to make a horse halter acc. to the Tandy pattern, maybe stamp on it to.

How do I get 9 to 10 oz leather neatly around a halter square? Do I wet it first and then fold? Punch holes for hand stitching after that? I find it rather difficult to get it around the square, rings and buckle in a nice way and it is not explained on the pattern.

Thanks for helping me out here.

Assuming you are using leather that is already dyed and finished (such as bridle leather), I would make up the piece to the pattern (cut to width and length, bevel the edges, stain and polish them and then add the creases). I would then mark where the stitching will need to be (start and finish points), mark out the stitches (with a whell or pricking iron) and then dampen, fold and sew the leather into place. After stitching, you may need to even up the mated pieces with a piece of broken glass, glass paper or whatever you feel happy with. I would also dampen the whole piece to avoid a water stain as Kevin suggests. I wouldn't bevel the inside edges where the two surfaces will mate together as you get a cleaner join and a nicer finished look.

Hope it works out okay.

Gary

[Marietje]

Thanks for the tips! My leather is not dyed & finished yet. It is natural so I can do with it what I want. The tip about not beveling the inside where the parts are stiteched together is good though, I will keep that in mind.

Thanks a lot!

[Gilligan]

I would be sure to skive it down like it says in the pattern to get a smooth transition, and not a rough spot to wear a hole in your horse's cheek.

The Kid

[hidepounder]

I want to make a horse halter acc. to the Tandy pattern, maybe stamp on it to.

How do I get 9 to 10 oz leather neatly around a halter square? Do I wet it first and then fold? Punch holes for hand stitching after that? I find it rather difficult to get it around the square, rings and buckle in a nice way and it is not explained on the pattern.

Thanks for helping me out here.

Marie,

You do need to wet the leather first. I don't know what the Tandy pattern calls for, I'm not familiar with it, but you need to skive the ends so that the laps have a smooth transition on the back side. They should be glued permanently with Barge, the edges then finiished...then do your sewing. Prior to gluing everything together, however, you need to edge and finish that short area that actually wraps the ring because you won't be able to get to it after it's put together. If it were me I would probably construct the overlap so that the entire noseband is double thickness. Leather is not as strong as nylon, obviously, and it takes a little more thickness for it to be strong.

Hope this helps!

Bob

[Marietje]

Marie,

You do need to wet the leather first. I don't know what the Tandy pattern calls for, I'm not familiar with it, but you need to skive the ends so that the laps have a smooth transition on the back side. They should be glued permanently with Barge, the edges then finiished...then do your sewing. Prior to gluing everything together, however, you need to edge and finish that short area that actually wraps the ring because you won't be able to get to it after it's put together. If it were me I would probably construct the overlap so that the entire noseband is double thickness. Leather is not as strong as nylon, obviously, and it takes a little more thickness for it to be strong.

Hope this helps!

Bob

Thanks Bob, I was thinking just the same. The pattern mentions the skiving, but nothing more. It only gives the sizes. I was also thinking of using more leather and do double. Stitching will look also nicer then I think. Thanks all for your tips. I'm so glad to have found this forum. I'm on it every day to look for tips and help and new ideas. I cannot imagine doing any work without all of your help! I'm still a newbe. When finished I will definitely post a pic to hear what I could have done better.