Braided Dog Leash

[KnotHead]

Hi all, I have been working on a dog leash project to keep my braiding skills honed in and to keep my old fingers from gettin to stiff.

Making with smooth calf skin lace (1/8), over thick scrap roo lace core at 1/2" in circumference. The braid is a 12 strand herringbone. This is not done yet.

Close up of where I brought it together at the top end and the start of the herringbone braid.

Close up of the actual herringbone braid operations.

I have not decided on how I will do the handle yet. I do have a couple of options in mind though. I will post a photo of the completed leash as soon as I get it all done.

Over all length that I have to braid.

[HorsehairBraider]

Nice... personally I prefer this to the 4-strand braid normally seen... but then I'm a braid-a-holic, and if you'd done it in 36 strands I'd have liked it even better!

[KnotHead]

The core really was not big enough for the 36 strands. However, when and IF I get an order for one. I will definitely post it here.

[megabit]

Just cut the strands real thin then you could do the 36. This from the guy that gets lost after 8 strands.

[KnotHead]

I would cut the strands but I am still waiting on my cutter/beveler to be completed.

This from the guy that gets lost after 8 strands.

Yer too funny... LOL... I really like your sense of humor...

Edited April 29, 2009 by KnotHead

[rawhide1]

KnotHead

Looking good!! I can't wait to see it finished. I have one to build in a couple months for a ladies B-day. So here's a ? what is the average length for a lead. She has a blue heeler I was thinking 3-4 feet. (I'm not trying to hijack your thread)

Thanks for posting

Mike

[buckskin1]

that is a very nice leash. rawhide1, 6 foot is usually a good length for a general purpose leash.

[KnotHead]

KnotHead

Looking good!! I can't wait to see it finished. I have one to build in a couple months for a ladies B-day. So here's a ? what is the average length for a lead. She has a blue heeler I was thinking 3-4 feet. (I'm not trying to hijack your thread)

Thanks for posting

Mike

Since the average height of the cattle dog is around17 to 20 inches about 1.5 feet, I would estimate about 3.5 feet long, or even 4 feet depending on how tall the handler is.

[rawhide1]

Thanks fellas for the answers!

Mike

[Spence]

I've got German Shepherds and I make mine 3, 4 & 5 ft long. They tend to get a bit edgy when in town, so a 6' would not work for me. I use my leads for training.

And btw, that is an awesome braid you're doing there. I like the backbraid. Can't wait to see the finished product. Twelve is as high as my old ham hands can go anymore.

Edited April 30, 2009 by Spence

[KnotHead]

Thank you Spence. The back braid took about 30mins just to get it like you see it in the photo. Oh, I forgot to say; that this is the first ever herringbone dog lead I have ever done. Seeing the replies being so positive is inspiring to me. So the finished product I hope will bring even more positive returns as the build is.

[KnotHead]

I have an update on the progression of the braided dog leash I been workin on.

Here be the photos of it so far. I know you can't see it to well because of the braiding post. But the braid got too long to continue with it off the hook.

I did more on it after I took the photo. So, I'm a little bit closer to bein done with the long part of the braid. Still tryin to decide on what type of handle I want to put on there, or if I just want to continue with a straight braided handle.

Brian...

[LeatherCaptain]

Hi, I'm totally new to braiding and I want to try my hand at building a 4 strand reata but, I'm not exactly sure what to use for a core. I've read that a lot of people don't use a core but I see that you have one here for your leash. In the book I have, the author says that sash cord or rawhide strands would work fine as a core. You stated that you're using thick scrap roo 1/2" roo lace for the core. How did you build that?

BTW ~ This is turning out great. It's almost mind boggling how you can keep that many strands going at the same time. I honestly think I'm going to be challanged with 4.

[KnotHead]

I had some scrap roo lace settin around. I just cut it even to the length I needed. Then I grabbed me a brass latch that I liked from home depot about $1.39 or somethin like that. Then I took the scrap, middled the 2 scrap strands on the latch and did a 4 strand round braid for just about the entire length of the scrap and then lashed it off at the end. That completed the core. I used the scrap roo because it is very strong. Since this is a free gift to a friend of mine, I used smooth calf skin lace from tandy to do the braided leash. But since his dog is not a show dog, I did not need to use roo lace.

Actually, the braid is very simple once you have it started. It's an over 2, under 2 sequence. So, the actual part of keeping track of the strands is fairly easy. All it takes is a bit of patience, and taking your time with it and not rushing it. I know that one time in the braid, I got in a hurry with it and crossed one strand on the back side of the braid and did not notice it for about 2 cycles of braiding. Had to take what I had done apart up to the point of where I messed up and redo the rest from there. So ya see, don't be in a hurry to get it done. Speed comes with time and practice.

The best advice I can give you right now is this; Never be intimidated by what you see. I did not get where I'm at with braiding and knot tying by being intimidated by what I saw others doing. I simply just jumped in with both feet and now I'm totally hooked to braiding. It also helps to have really great mentors who watch and teach you along the way. I have a really great braiding mentor. He has taught me more about braiding in a year, than what I have learned on my own in the last 15yrs of knot tying. He keeps me in check with my skills and reminds me with his own braiding that I'm still learning.

Brian...

Edited June 11, 2009 by KnotHead

[KnotHead]

Well I thought I would give an update to where I am at and include a couple of photos. I am now past the transition point going from round braid to flat braid for the handle.

As you can see from this one, I went ahead and continued through the transition point with the Herringbone braid.

Brian...

[Spence]

How Sweet It Is !!

That is coming along just fine. Absolutely great transition work. I can't wait to see your join/back braid. Mainly 'cause I'm working on an 8 strand right now. Don't ask me why, but I normally start with the handle in a U1O1 pattern and then go to a herring bone for the body and back to the U1O1 for the clip end. After seeing your clip end, I can see I've got some rethinking to do. I love that.

[KnotHead]

Thanks Spence. I appreciate your comments. Those transition points believe it or not cost me some time putting them together in my head let alone doing them for real. When I finally figured out how I was going to accomplish the transitions, doing them became much easier because I was no longer intimidated by it. Now, ehehehehe!!! I am about to explode with excitement.

Brian...

[KnotHead]

I got my new cutter / beveler today. Woo Hoo!!! I'm gonna be playin all weekend, ehehehehe... I need to get used to it and learn it really well. Oh yeah!! I'm gonna be cuttin it up this weekend.

[SmartAceW0LF]

It also helps to have really great mentors who watch and teach you along the way. I have a really great braiding mentor. He has taught me more about braiding in a year, than what I have learned on my own in the last 15yrs of knot tying. He keeps me in check with my skills and reminds me with his own braiding that I'm still learning.

Hey Brian,

The suspense is killing me. Who is the mentor you speak of here? And is he near you physically or did your relationship with him start out on these forums and move on to more later on? Have been admiring your work on many of these forums. Its a real inspiration to watch the rapid improvement in your skills. Keep it up and thank you for the level of generosity you have in sharing what you learn.

Screw the everready bunny! I want some of YOUR energy!

[KnotHead]

My mentor is Mike Storch and he is located in Utah. I been under his wing for about 3 years now. He has a site at hooeyknows.com His work is just awsome. He cuts and dyes his own roo lace. I am so glad I found him and that he is willing to go the extra yard to pass on some of his knowlege to me as a braider.

Our relationship started out with a friend of mine in Colorado who passed away this year. I met Mike in a yahoo braider chat I was hosting for one day between my website partner and Mike. The things he taught me just over that one chat session were incredible. He showed me some of his work by emailing me some of his photos and right there is where I said to myself, I need his guidance in my learning. Every so often now I will call him if I run into a difficult problem in leather braiding. He shares his knowlege and experience openly with me. I think he would do that with anyone who was very serious about learning braiding from go. He wont waste time with those that are not serious about the craft and art.

He was a knot tier for many years also. I have a history on his adventures somewhere around here in my office. I just got to find it again. LOL... I will meet him one day in person and we will probably not talk too much, but we will share a moment of braiding a pineapple knot some where under a shady tree and a nice little prairy breeze, or something like that.

Brian...

[SmartAceW0LF]

Ahh yes I perused his site in its entirety just yesterday. (Probably linked from one of your posts elsewhere). Aside from his gorgeous work, I found his "Hooey's Thoughts" pages most interesting. A man definitely in tune (and at harmony) with the Western culture. You know when I first began braiding I had virtually no idea there were so many talented people in this craft. After a time, I faded out of the craft as life, family and sustenance began to pretty much consume all of my time. I learned my profession within the IT industry and devoted myself to increasing my skills professionally. Interestingly enough it surprises me how long it took me to come up with the idea of researching the craft on the Internet. After all, I have spent what seems like probably 60 or more percent of my time on these computers since purchasing my first one. At any rate, seeing all of the people interested in the craft as well as the generosity of virtually the entire community in sharing techniques, ideas and such has given me a charge. The level of quality across the board is on the one hand encouraging, yet on the other can be (as you posted in an earlier post here) a bit intimidating. Your words of not letting that get in your way of "doing it" hit home here. As time permits I will post some things and try to gain some pointers here and there. I think at this stage of my experience the one thing needing immediate attention is my lace cutting skill. Particularly with regard to kangaroo hides. The silky smooth way that roo hide cuts is a complete departure from any of my previous experiences with leather and in observing the work of craftsmen whose skills I aspire to, I realize the skill I have yet to attain with cutting roo lace. Naturally, that begins with the proper tools. So, just as yourself (until recently) I am trying to acquire the right cutting tool(s) next. With that thought in mind, you haven't mentioned yet the maker or the cost of your new lace cutter. Is its maker taking orders yet? If so, I would be honored to learn more about him, the cost etc. One final note on the subject of this tool, I noticed in the pictures you posted that there were 2 separate teflon peices that attach to the tool and am curious what their purpose is? Again Brian, at the risk of sounding like I am sucking up (though I am quite sincere) I feel compelled to express my obervation and appreciation for the keystone presence you have in this craft. In a word, I just want to say thanks. You are one that makes a difference.

[KnotHead]

Hi.

Well the creator of the tool I had made for me I sent an email to and asked him your question. I will post to you in PM when he answers back.

I have 3 degrees I can cut roo at.

1. 90 degrees

2. 30 degrees

3. 45 degrees

That's what those extra pieces are for you see in the back ground. They are interchangable depending on what angle I need to cut at and the project I am cutting for.

The material that was used in the making of my new tool is Steel for the clamp down on a bench and for the center rod that holds the interchangable pieces and the screw down cap at the end that tightens against the delrin cutting surfaces which holds the injector blades tight. The interchangable pieces are made from Delrin. Delrin is a very, very strong polymer known to be as tough as steel. But without all the weight to it. I thought that the delrin would be better than the stainless steel inserts for roo hide cutting. The stainless steel will rust eventually, whereas delrin will not. Stainless steel will burnish your roo hide cuts a little. The delrin does'nt do that. I had a few tweaks I needed on the tool and that was the 30 degree cut as an added insert. I like the 30 degree cut for very wide lace because it will tend to lay flatter on the surface of the braid. It will also take very, very little roll out to smooth the braid down with roo hide. Just about any lace can be beveled, but the result is just not the same as you get with roo hide.

I am quite speachless when it comes to such kind comments. But I do know of much better people that deserve that comment. But I do thank you for your kind comments. I am out to do the best that I can to bring this craft and art back to a popularity, or at least to a level of some sort. There are not very many of the old school braiders left that are willing to teach a youngster these days. So I would like to share as much as possible what I learn from my mentor with everyone that I can. After all, how do you keep the craft alive if the old school vets all die off without leaving the skills to the younger gens. I figure that the web is the only way to archive as much as possible all that we learn. That also entails giving away the secrets of the craft. If we don't share it, the craft and art of leather braiding, knot tying and leather carving will die off and never be heard of again. It might be seen, but never practiced again. I for one am not willing to let that happen and will fight every step of the way to keep it alive. Probably till my dying day.

I too am in the I.T. field. I have been in the field for about 10yrs now. I love what I do for a living and it is a means to practice my art & craft. I love even more my art and craft though. When I retire from the I.T. field, I will probably just do my art and craft. For now I am stock piling all that I can for that retirement day.

With that thought in mind, you haven't mentioned yet the maker or the cost of your new lace cutter. Is its maker taking orders yet? If so, I would be honored to learn more about him, the cost etc. One final note on the subject of this tool, I noticed in the pictures you posted that there were 2 separate teflon peices that attach to the tool and am curious what their purpose is? Again Brian, at the risk of sounding like I am sucking up (though I am quite sincere) I feel compelled to express my obervation and appreciation for the keystone presence you have in this craft. In a word, I just want to say thanks. You are one that makes a difference.

[KnotHead]

Hi folks.

Well here's an update on the dog leash. I am almost completed with it. I just thought you all would like to see how I handled the back splice phase. Below is the complete progression of the back braided splice.

And the final stage of the back braided splice. All's left is to cut and flush the ends and add a T-Shaped PK at the transition points and add a PK at the latch area.

I will post more later on the finish of the dog leash. Hopefully with a happy camper on the other side of the camera.

Brian...

[Aggiebraider]

Hey Brian,

I noticed in your earlier photos that you were using hemostats to secure your braiding while taking a break. I use these all the time when I am braiding parachute cord, but I was wondering, do the hemostats mark up the leather any when clamped down? It looked like in the first post you used smooth hemostats, but in a later one you had one with teeth. One would think that the teeth would mark up the roo leather pretty badly, but I wasnt sure if you figured out a way to fix/prevent this. I know that typically you wouldnt need hemostats on rawhide as it is stiff enough to hold itself in place even when tempered, but roo is much to soft to do so.

Also, where do you get your hemostats? I typically try to find some good ones at flea markets, but have a heck of a time finding any that arent sprung out either at the nose end, or at the handle end making it almost impossible to clamp them shut. I have done this myself to a few pairs, and tried to bend them back, but over enough time I actually broke a couple pairs. I have even tried to get some from vets that they may not want in their surgical packs anymore, but they are asking either too much for them, or they are worthless due to previously mentioned problems. This was actually kind of a big question I had because I would think that in order to prevent damage to the leather and without a good method for temporarily securing the braids, a person would have to just sit and braid the piece they were working on without stopping. Which would make bathroom breaks and phone calls a bad interruption lol.

So if anyone has any advice on this I would really appreciate it.

Thanks,

Calvin

[KnotHead]

Hey Brian,

I noticed in your earlier photos that you were using hemostats to secure your braiding while taking a break. I use these all the time when I am braiding parachute cord, but I was wondering, do the hemostats mark up the leather any when clamped down? It looked like in the first post you used smooth hemostats, but in a later one you had one with teeth. One would think that the teeth would mark up the roo leather pretty badly, but I wasnt sure if you figured out a way to fix/prevent this. I know that typically you wouldnt need hemostats on rawhide as it is stiff enough to hold itself in place even when tempered, but roo is much to soft to do so.

Also, where do you get your hemostats? I typically try to find some good ones at flea markets, but have a heck of a time finding any that arent sprung out either at the nose end, or at the handle end making it almost impossible to clamp them shut. I have done this myself to a few pairs, and tried to bend them back, but over enough time I actually broke a couple pairs. I have even tried to get some from vets that they may not want in their surgical packs anymore, but they are asking either too much for them, or they are worthless due to previously mentioned problems. This was actually kind of a big question I had because I would think that in order to prevent damage to the leather and without a good method for temporarily securing the braids, a person would have to just sit and braid the piece they were working on without stopping. Which would make bathroom breaks and phone calls a bad interruption lol.

So if anyone has any advice on this I would really appreciate it.

Thanks,

Calvin

Hi Calvin,

All the hemostats I have are grooved. The leather used in that project was smooth calf skin. I treated that lace prior to braiding the leash with Pecards Leather Dressing. By doing that the lace became more accepting and forgiving than roo hide is with hemostats. Just about everywhere I had to use hemostats in the braid, there was no teeth marks left behind after awhile of working with the strings.

Most of the hemostats I have now were given to me by others that were in the medical field. But I do have an online source for them at this web address; All Heart Hemostat Supplier... My problem was not the phones, it was just the damn JOB gettin in the way. Seemed like every time I'd start working on the leash, there'd be something that would come up and would take most of my day to fix.