Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About LeatherCaptain

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

6,815 profile views
  1. OK. This is looking pomising. I'm going to give it a try tonight. I'm sure I'll be able to leave a mark but I'm mainly concerned about the retention over time. I'm thinking the leather will swell back out and loose the stamping.
  2. Hello, I'm wondering if the side of show harness leather I received from W&C will take stamping at all. I think the oil/wax content will make it nearly impossible for it to retain any moisture or the form from the stamp. I guess I can try it tonight but I was hoping someone might have some input. Thanks in advance!
  3. Totally agree with this. The holster is nice but I'd just be careful molding behind the trigger.
  4. My typical order from W&C is a 7/8 Skirting Back, drum dyed black with the flesh side refinished. I've found that the best cut comes from the upper rear of the back. You would typically cut all your strap goods from the upper part of the back because the grain is the tightest and finishes oh so smooth. If I could, I would order in Double Bends and just forget about the shoulder and the belly altogether. Enjoy!
  5. I've ordered from Seattle Fabrics before and just bought some from Foam n more (foamforyou.com). Seattle Fabrics has a ton of other materials. Order a catalogue...i think it's a couple of bucks but they have a ton of material.
  6. I quit using the Fiebings Acrylic Resolene and switched to the Angelus semi-gloss acrylic. I started applying with a synthetic sponge that was wet. It worked pretty well but lately I just cut up an old T-shirt and soak it with non-diluted resolene and apply a relatively thin coat. This keeps the airbubble issue down and limits the drips. Most of the time it only takes one coat but I may go over a piece again if I see a few bare spots.
  7. Hello, Back to the well again.... A friend of mine has asked me to redo his solo seat for him and I have really admired a lot of the work I've seen here on the forum. For those of you who build out solo pan-style seats (i.e. The Dave Thiebold style), what thickness neoprene rubber/foam are you using? I was thinking of ordering 1" thick neoprene that Dave recommends from Foam n more that has an adhesive side. Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
  8. Well, I am looking for the stretchy, elastic like material but it's sort of thick and reminds me of wet suite material or something like a knee brace.
  9. Hi, pardon my ignorance if this has come up lately but, could someone tell me where there is a good place to buy the neoprenish material to make an ankle holster? I never make ankle rigs but I've traded some work with a local handyman and his wife wants an ankle rig. So, I guess that's what I'm going to do. He gave me a Galco to use as an example but I'm not sure where to buy the stretch material. I've looked at CVS, etc. for knee braces and the like but haven't found anything that will work. Any help is much obliged!
  10. Shooter there answered the question. But, I guess you didn't carve in behind the trigger as much as it looks. I'm just trying to look out for a fellow craftsman. I didn't want to see the topic of your next post being "Does anyone know a good lawyer?"
  11. Any concern on your part in regards to the heavy molding behind the trigger? Looks like a lawsuit waiting to happen.
  12. You really put together some cool lookin stuff. I love that folder pouch. Would you mind posting a pic of the back? Also, where did you get the snaps from?
  13. The best thing you can do for pics is to just google the different types and do a search here on LWF. There are a couple of members who have posted images and comparisons of a few different edgers. You'll also get a lot of information from some of the manufacturers websites. See the following couple of links that were recently discussed for some info and sources for suppliers. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25469 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25369 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25212&st=0&p=159610&hl=edger&fromsearch=1entry159610 There's a ton of info already published. Not to be lazy but it would be difficult to replicate all of the great comments out there by some fantastic craftsmen. The biggest difference between the types is the plane of the cutting surface, whether flat or curved and whether there are "feet" or guides on the sides of the blade (i.e. common vs round).
  14. Thanks, Bruce. I called and spoke to Jeremiah and someone at Barry King (sorry for not remember his name). Jeremiah was very resourceful and provided a ton of information that lead me to ordering his #2 round edger. Both were great people to talk to and I was suprised how much time they were able to offer me on the phone. I considered Bob Douglas but it's nice being able to see the product online before ordering it. Ron's tools look great and I'm sure they perform just as well. I think the addition of a sharpening tool is a fantasic idea but I just couldn't figure out the price difference. I didn't speak to him so maybe there's something about the material. Ron's tools also seem a bit long to me. Maybe it's just the perspective of the photos but I prefer to stay as close to my work as possible. I don't need the extra length to get into tight places. Anyway, thanks for the input. I've got a #2 Round Edger from Jeremiah Watt on the way (and a 1.5" half round punch). I'll have to let you know how well I transition from my #3 Round Osborne. Thanks again!
  • Create New...