Saddlebag Report post Posted May 5, 2009 Has anyone tried the thermal tools for burning holes or finishing the ends in nylon horse tack? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UKRay Report post Posted May 5, 2009 I have used a mains powered electric hot knife to cut webbing for belts and I guess that is much the same sort of thing. It can get a bit sticky and messy until you work out how hot the knife needs to be to cut the stuff and how fast you have to be not to leave half the webbing stuck to the knife blade.... I have also used a gas ring and heated spike to punch holes for eyelets. That worked too. What exactly did you need to know? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Saddlebag Report post Posted May 6, 2009 I wind up with jobs to add a few holes to bridles, halters, nylon cinch straps, etc. I've cursed my way thro with a leather punch then used a match or lots of them to burn the edges of the holes or the ends. I was advised that some nails or spikes can explode when heated so I didn't try that. I'm not sure I want to spend about $200 Cdn on about a 6 pce. kit which is much cheaper than buying individually pieces and which covers pretty much every application. If you google Proleptic Inc you will be able to look up the Thermal tools. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UKRay Report post Posted May 6, 2009 I wind up with jobs to add a few holes to bridles, halters, nylon cinch straps, etc. I've cursed my way thro with a leather punch then used a match or lots of them to burn the edges of the holes or the ends. I was advised that some nails or spikes can explode when heated so I didn't try that. I'm not sure I want to spend about $200 Cdn on about a 6 pce. kit which is much cheaper than buying individually pieces and which covers pretty much every application. If you google Proleptic Inc you will be able to look up the Thermal tools. Personally, I like a bench mounted cutter for webbing - it doubles as a cutter for nylon rope and I sometimes use that for dog leads. Mine is as old as the hills and needs replacing but it still works so I keep using it. I prefer the 'blade' type to the 'wire' type as it seems to give a cleaner cut. Like I said, I always burn the holes with an old marlin spike that has been kicking around the place for ages. It is tapered so I can judge how far to push it through to make the hole size right. I have a little camping gas stove and set the spike up on top for a while until it is hot enough. The spike handle is rope wrapped so I don't burn my fingers. Periodically I set fire to the rope and amuse people by rushing around the bench and dowsing it with the casing water. I like a little excitement now and again... I wouldn't spend 200 bucks on those tools if I were you. I'd save up and get a nice bench cutter and a cheap old marlin spike. Check this out: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BENCHTOP-HOT-CUTTER-...p3286.m63.l1177 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted May 6, 2009 I have an Engle hot knife for cutting webbing and synthetic fabric. I've had it for years, with no problems, the Scout Masters beg me to use it when they do webbing projects. The pro thermal tools are much better for holes than my soldering iron. Proleptic makes the hole burners and Engle is a German company but their stuff is pricey. If you cut a LOT then the Engle will be cheaper over the long long haul. Art Has anyone tried the thermal tools for burning holes or finishing the ends in nylon horse tack? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barra Report post Posted May 6, 2009 http://www.outdoorxscape.co.uk/store/shop....knife/p_62.html I cut a lot of webbing (Aircraft harnesses) and this is the type of hot knife we use. For many years we used the hot wire cutters but the blade versions are much better. As a cheap alternative you can use a soldering iron and have a wide blade for cutting and a tip for holes. Bare in mind that where you have cut or burned a hole and the nylon has fused together that it will be someone brittle. ALSO, watch the fumes. We have industrial fume extraction systems but you need to avoid breathing the fumes. Depending on how much webbing you will envisage cutting you can make a cheap booth with a vaccuum cleaner and some sort of hood. Alternatively cut in a well ventilated area and have a fan on to blow the fumes away. Barra Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spence Report post Posted May 6, 2009 I use an old marlinspike also. I just grab it with a pair of vise grips when it's hot enough. I don't move fast enough to be dousing fires anymore. strapworks.com has a hot cutter for USD105.00. You can mount it on the bench or a board, as I plan to do. If anyone knows of something comparable at a cheaper price, I'd like to know. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CampbellRandall Report post Posted May 7, 2009 (edited) Has anyone tried the thermal tools for burning holes or finishing the ends in nylon horse tack? Dan Preston (Proleptic.net) has a good set of tools for finishing be hand. Its basically a hot iron with interchangeable tips for holes, slots, tips, etc. I havnt seen a machine that can adapt as well as the hand iorns for holes and such. For straight cutting, a hot cutter is worth the investment. The two inch manual "box-type" cutters are cheap and will work for basic work. Keep in mind you are pulling the webbing down on to the hot knife as it melts through (watch your fingers). I've noticed this type of cutter tends to tapper the point out as it melts. We carry this as the H2, which sells for the same price as strapworks. We make a scissor action cutter, PHC Professional Hot Cutter - 4 inch hot knife , that has a 4 or 6 " heated blade. You bring the blade down on top of the webbing to cut, which is more precise and easier to control. If you are doing a lot of webbing, we carry a line of automatied cutters as well. Edited May 7, 2009 by CampbellRandall Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tonyc1 Report post Posted May 7, 2009 I usually cut any webbing with a knife or strap end chisel and seal them and any punched holes with this. It is a Scope Iron and when you push the black ring forward it heats up in about 5 seconds. I have a couple of them, one each end of the workshop. Plus you can use them for any electrical soldering you may need to do. Tony. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Saddlebag Report post Posted May 7, 2009 I just googled marlin spike and I see it's not a spike, per se, as something to drive into wood. Those are the ones that can explode. OK, any idea as to where I can get a marlin spike? I'm game to try one. I just shortened the seat belt material on a bareback pad and rather than cut the webbing and burn in more holes I put a couple of folds and stitched it down flat with multiple rows of stitching. Worked great. If the owner uses it on a much larger horse she can simply cut the stitches and let it out. Whew, I got out of doing holes and ends on this one! Lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barra Report post Posted May 7, 2009 Try a ships chandler store for a Marlin spike. Barra Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
