How to sharpen a head knife

[bruce johnson]

Carl,

I did a little sharpening last night, and found the stack of coins gives me a starting angle. I always just kind of eyeballed it before. This just gives me more of a constant to make sure a new knife is the same as my favorites. Obviously blade width will play a part in changing the angles too.

Herb French is from Sheridan WY. Sheridan phone directory probably has him. They sell the books at Sheridan Leather Outfitters too. They cost about $10. Herb sharpens tools for folks in that area, does some mail-order sharpening, and may still be doing the metal work for Bob Douglas too. The book is pretty good, and some nice little tips about power sharpening, hand sharpening, and some of the special nuances of sharpening leather tools.

[Hilly]

Marlon, thanks for the little tutorial. I hope some day soon I will get the nerve to try to touch up my new head knife on a stone. Seems that every time I've ever tried to sharpen something on a stone, it comes out duller than when I started. I'm sorta scared to try it.

I've already had it get a little dull, and I pulled it through a ceramic sharpener a couple times on each side of the blade. It shaved hairs off my arm afterwards. I don't know it will work in the long run, though. Maybe I've found a shortcut? I'll keep you informed.

Hilly

[cjbleather]

Thanks Bruce and Marion. I guess I am a too logical type of person. Or, is it the engineering coming out. But, I don't feel too comfortable with the rch approach. After I sent the first email, it dawned on me that one way I could figure out the conumdrum ( actually the blade extension beyond the quarters) is to use the tangent of the angle. The height of the quarters would be the opposite side, while the adjacent side (Which I am trying to find out) could be determined. Now then, I have to get my engineering book out to find the tangent of a 20 degree angle. Carlb

[Rawhide]

Thanks Bruce and Marion. I guess I am a too logical type of person. Or, is it the engineering coming out. But, I don't feel too comfortable with the rch approach. After I sent the first email, it dawned on me that one way I could figure out the conumdrum ( actually the blade extension beyond the quarters) is to use the tangent of the angle. The height of the quarters would be the opposite side, while the adjacent side (Which I am trying to find out) could be determined. Now then, I have to get my engineering book out to find the tangent of a 20 degree angle. Carlb

Tanget = opp over adjacent? Therefore, tan 20 = quarter stack/ x , then x = quarter stack / tan 20.

(I'm an NGNEER, too!)

Marlon

Edited March 13, 2008 by Rawhide

[tonyc1]

Tanget = opp over adjacent? Therefore, tan 20 = quarter stack/ x , then x = quarter stack / tan 20.

(I'm an NGNEER, too!)

Marlon

You blokes speak an entirely diff. language!!!

Tony.

[Rawhide]

it's not really as hard as people think.

[cjbleather]

Marion, Off hand or easily available to you, what is the tan of 20 degrees? Thanks Carlb

PS I haven't found my engineering formula/table book yet. I can't even remember what we used to call this book as we went through school. yach for my memory.

[Art]

.3639?

And it was the CRC Standard Math Tables, that was many many moons ago.

Art

Marion, Off hand or easily available to you, what is the tan of 20 degrees? Thanks Carlb

PS I haven't found my engineering formula/table book yet. I can't even remember what we used to call this book as we went through school. yach for my memory.

[Rawhide]

.3639?

And it was the CRC Standard Math Tables, that was many many moons ago.

Art

Yup, exactly what Art said.

[Sharpshooter]

Now then, I have to get my engineering book out to find the tangent of a 20 degree angle. Carlb

Google is a wonderful tool, better than any calculator or trig textbook..... Type in "tangent of 20 degrees" ...

Ok, now since I jumped in being a wiseguy, I have a question....

Why not a convex edge on a head knife? I've been working with knives and knifemakers for a long time and have found that a convex edge is far and away better than a bevel in every case. I made my headknife and convexed it from the beginning so I have no basis for comparison.

As far as I can tell, the knife works perfectly, cuts around curves, skives well and stays sharp; is there something I'm missing?