Shorts Report post Posted June 3, 2009 Since getting my Cobra I've pulled scraps and been practicing. I've mocked up holster patterns so that I can stitch them and use the machine the way I'd use the machine everyday. It makes no sense to work only on straight lines when those aren't all I do. Using the machine is very simple. Using the machine skillfully - that's a different story. Beginning a stitch line and ending a stitch line are my bane right now. More specifically, securing the ends of stitching so that they are sturdy and look good is tough. Hand stitching is easy! It just takes longer. I can hand stitch well. I am confident in it. This machine stitching, not so much; yet. Learning the timing of curves is interesting too. While not difficult it takes a bit to get it down well and not drop a stitch or fall out of the stitch line. Going from the security and confidence of bread and butter and moving to another method stirs up a slew of feelings. Curiosity, hope, frustration, impatience, uncertainty, excitement... Before I got a machine I imagined the gobs of holsters I'd be putting out with so much stitching capacity at my fingertips. I'm disappointed; well, maybe not disappointed but likely impatient that I'm not at that level yet. I feel like I've taken two steps back in my leatherwork. And in reality, while I haven't lost anything in regards to the of leather I can build, I feel as though I'm brand new and getting started from square one again with this machine. And no, I'm not going to give it away to anyone I'm going to get better. I just failed to realize that behind the excitement there is a learning curve to travel. I'm traveling that road now. I don't like it. I don't like struggling at any skill. I've always been quick at picking up skills. Feeling behind and new makes me uneasy and I want to get out of 'uneasy' as quick as I can. Well, with some luck and practice I think I'll come around. My insecurity says, "I want it now." Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UKRay Report post Posted June 3, 2009 Oh how I empathise with your situation... The biggest hassle for me was setting the machine up when I didn't know how to do it. Sorting out the right feet, the right thread and needles and finally getting it to run slow enough to be precise was a real achievement. Hang in there, Monica. I'm a few weeks ahead of you but I have still got such a lot to learn about using my machine If you get stuck you might want to give Ryan Neel a call. He helped me enormously and made my machine work properly for me by supplying the right accessories at the right price. Nice bloke too. Ray PS - did I get all that right, Ryan? LOL - only joking, honest! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shorts Report post Posted June 3, 2009 Whoa, my post moved. Sorry Mods! Looks like I still have a learning curve of an internet forum. Ray, I have Steve on speed dial. Talking to him on Friday and getting the machine ready to stitch, I was such a klutz. I imagine Steve was wondering how he got such a dysfunctional customer on a Friday afternoon I watched the DVD last night. It's reassuring to know that I'm doing things right, instructionally speaking. I just need to get the feel. I'm ordering more thread today, or soon. I need some black. I guess the big question I have to answer is what sizes do I want to run. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UKRay Report post Posted June 3, 2009 Ooops - sorry, Monica, I forgot you were already dealing with Steve. I'd like to see that DVD too - I wish I could source a copy! Ray Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
superchute Report post Posted June 3, 2009 well some things that might help 1 try a storter stich help you move 2 may want to cut or buy a open inter foot so you can see the needle hit the leather 3 do you have the holster plate Russ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shorts Report post Posted June 3, 2009 well some things that might help 1 try a storter stich help you move 2 may want to cut or buy a open inter foot so you can see the needle hit the leather 3 do you have the holster plate Russ Russ good idea. I am beginning to experiment with stitch lengths and they will help. And I wondered if there was such a foot available. I would take one for sure. I do not have a holster plate. From what I little I know of them they would be more benefit if I stitched on an already molded holster. Currently I stitch my patterns before molding. But I won't discount a tool. Can you tell me more about the holster plate? I don't know much about them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
troop Report post Posted June 3, 2009 i'd be really interested in a holster plate as well...there is a metal plate that came with my class 3 Cobra that i have'nt figured out yet. i wonder if that is what it is. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
superchute Report post Posted June 3, 2009 well I dont have one but from what I have seen the bottom plate is tall so you have more room for leather to move on the bottom. May be some one that has one can pipe up and tell use more Russ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted June 3, 2009 The extra plate that comes with the Cobra Class 3 is a slotted needle plate, used with out the feed dog. It is used for straps, belts and harness. A holster plate has a raised portion around the needle slot and is used (usually in conjunction with the right toe presser foot) to sew close to bulges like those where the gun resides on CC holsters. It is also great for putting gussets in bags. Art i'd be really interested in a holster plate as well...there is a metal plate that came with my class 3 Cobra that i have'nt figured out yet. i wonder if that is what it is. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra Steve Report post Posted June 3, 2009 Hi all. here is what I can tell you about Holster Plates. *1, they are only for pre-formed holsters. *2, there is no gray area for Holster Makers. 50% say they will never use a Holster Plate, and 50% say they can't make one without it. *3, they are very costly, somewhere between $100.00 and $200.00. *4, before you invest in a Holster Plate, see what category you fall in. *5, when using the Holster Plate, you must remove the feed dog. There is a learning curve for using this plate, lots of practice. *6, the Holster Plate has a raised portion for the Holster to set on, this allows the user to turn the Holster without the Holster hitting anything as it's being fed, like a clip. Hope this helps, Steve Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shorts Report post Posted June 3, 2009 At the end of the DVD Steve shows the different accessories that are available. Now that I've seen what it looks like I can apply very easily the explanations from here. Great info guys. I don't believe I would use one with the way I'm building holsters presently. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
superchute Report post Posted June 3, 2009 thanks Art and Steve for the fast help Russ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregg Report post Posted June 3, 2009 Hi Shorts, hang in there it will get better! Took me a little while to get it all down but when you do it is worth the effort. Steve, what are the benefits of using a slotted plate instead of the standard setup? Gregg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cobra Steve Report post Posted June 3, 2009 Hi Gregg, the Slotted Plate is designed for top stitching on strapped goods, like reigns, belts, headstalls, and so forth. Most machines (including ours), are set up with a feed dog to accommodate heavier thicknesses. The slot in the regular plate, which comes set up on most machines, including ours, is wide, so when putting a top stitch on the edge of the strap, the right edge of the strap will get caught in that slot when the feed dog drops below the plate after each stitch. By using the slotted plate (you must take the feed dog out), this eliminates that wide slot, because the slot on the slotted plate is very narrow. The strapped good that you are sewing cannot fall into that slot. This plate sells for $50.00 to $100.00. This plate is no charge when buying a COBRA Class 3 or COBRA Class 4. Steve Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregg Report post Posted June 3, 2009 Thanks Steve! Great information as usual and I'll have to try one. Looks like the best thing for lighter weight materials. Thanks again, Gregg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted June 4, 2009 Shorts, I hope I'm not overstating the obvious, but have you turned the speed down? IIRC, the servo motor that comes with the machine has a dial adjustable speed limiter. Set that low and let 'er rip...I mean sew. With the whole thing set at slow motion, you'll still benefit from machine sewing, but be able to work on the muscle memory of when to turn, how to guide, etc. I did something of the sort learning on my little machines....basically I hand cranked everything to learn how to hold, guide, and turn the project. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
