Tooled leather and rain/finishes and waterproofing.

[Hilly]

Jeez, I feel like such a newb asking these questions, but here goes:

Up till now, I've been doing tooled projects that stay dry for the most part. I'm wondering how well tooling holds up to the elements? For instance, if I were to tool a pair of carved and tooled saddlebags for a motorcycle, would the stamping fade away more with each rain storm? If I were to do saddlebags, I'd plan on using something for stiffeners so they wouldn't sag upon getting wet, but I just have no idea how well the tooling would hold up.

What happens with saddles when they get wet?

Also, I know we've been through this quite a few times, but what do you use for waterproofing? Do you use it on both sides of the leather? How often do you apply?

I absolutely hate the hard shine of stuff like super sheen! What is your favorite finish that gives a nice satin glow? Can you use a waterproofer afterwards?

[Hilly]

[bustedlifter]

Hilly, I use motor oil on my stuff after applying dye and before applying antique, if used. After that I use Aussie leather conditioner. It still gets wet after a while but the tooling holds up really well, I like to tool deep. I use Fiebing's products, none of that ecoflow garbage for real world conditions. Hope this helps some.

[MADMAX22]

I like to tool, dye, oil with neatsfoot. Then I generally use leather balm with atom wax. After thats all done I get a good coat of sno-seal. I really like sno-sea, it works very well. You gotta reaplly it occasionally but it keeps the water out.

Aussie wax works as well but I think sno-seal works a little better and last a tad longer.

Bees natural is suppose to work real good also but havnt tried that yet.

[Lobo]

I don't do saddlebags, or anything that is really likely to get soaked. I do holsters, belts, and associated accessory items. I finish everything with a liberal application of neatsfoot oil, which infuses the fibers and resists moisture penetration. After the neatsfoot has settled in for a day or so, I like Fiebing's Bag Kote for a deep, natural luster. Then I apply an acrylic, usually Fiebing's Leather Sheen, for moisture protection. All edges are burnished with a mixture of 50% parafin and 50% beeswax, which seals the edges very well.

I would expect my products to take a reasonable amount of moisture without problems, but I wouldn't expect them to stand up to a complete dousing!

Being a motorcycle rider myself (2001 HD Dyna Super Glide), I see a lot of bags and accessories made of leathers other than veg-tan, which can't be carved of course, but will certainly stand up to moisture much better.

Old-time saddle-makers used a mixture of neatsfoot oil, warmed to a point that it would dissolve beeswax, and applied while in the warm liquid state, then buffed out to a luster. That might be a good start for your carved veg-tan products. The neatsfoot will penetrate and infuse the fibers while the beeswax will provide good surface protection.

Liquid silicone might also give good protection. It is available in spray cans, penetrates leather easily, and stays there.

Probably a good idea to give your customers some routine maintenance instructions, as anything exposed to sunshine and the elements will require replenishment from time to time.