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rccolt45

ready to learn how to finish

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Hi guys,

I am new to holster making (about 6 months). So far everything I have done has not been worth posting. But with your help I have actually made one that might be worth showing off. I am in the last steps and need to dye it. My question for you is what steps are involved so get the shinny affect that you see? If the past I have tried the Tandy eco water based stuff and it comes out nice and after a few buffings kinda shinny. I have then tried supershine on top and it looks better but not like I have seen here. So whats the secret to a really nice holster?

Also what is vineagroon and resylin used for?

Edited by rccolt45

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Hey rccolt45!

It sounds like you're doing the process that many of us follow (with some personal variations) and if you are happy with the results, keep doing it. You might want to consider the possibility that the effect you're seeing in some of the posts is a result of the flash photography and not some finishing trick. I suspect that if you had a chance to look at some of these items in person, they would look very much like yours.

Hope this helps.

Mike

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Hi guys,

I am new to holster making (about 6 months). So far everything I have done has not been worth posting. But with your help I have actually made one that might be worth showing off. I am in the last steps and need to dye it. My question for you is what steps are involved so get the shinny affect that you see? If the past I have tried the Tandy eco water based stuff and it comes out nice and after a few buffings kinda shinny. I have then tried supershine on top and it looks better but not like I have seen here. So whats the secret to a really nice holster?

Also what is vineagroon and resylin used for?

Buff out the dye to get the residue off (I use a horsehair brush). Then topcoat. I prefer Resolene (an acrylic) and have gotten great results by airbrushing (I dip small parts sometimes). Once that is dry, buff it out too.

The better you buff the slicker your leather will come out. I use EcoFlo dye too so I know you can get great results.

Edit: Just like a paint job, applying the clear in a couple layers, buffing between each, you'll get a great shine. And it isn't flash photography ;) Once the Resolene settles in and fully cures, with wear, the shine will settle out compared to brand new.

Edited by Shorts

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Not sure what resylin is, but I can answer the vinegaroon question.

Vinegaroon is a common name for a brew made by soaking rustable metal in vinegar. After it all works itself out, the result is a lightly odiferous liquid that chemically reacts with the tannins in leather, turning it black....not dying it, chemically changing it. There's really several pages of info about it, so it's easier for me to say "type vinegaroon in the search window", than try to retype all of it.

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ok thanks for the info. If I understand resilyn is a product used after dying to lock in the dye - I am using super shine now I guesse it is the same thing.

As to vinegaroon - thats good info but not what I will be using - thanks - don't need to open that can of worms.

As to flash effect I agree it is not the flash. I have owned some custom holsters from Matt delfatti and sparks and they are all very shinny.

One last question I see some people waxing after the dye -what is the point of this?

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ok thanks for the info. If I understand resilyn is a product used after dying to lock in the dye - I am using super shine now I guesse it is the same thing.

As to vinegaroon - thats good info but not what I will be using - thanks - don't need to open that can of worms.

As to flash effect I agree it is not the flash. I have owned some custom holsters from Matt delfatti and sparks and they are all very shinny.

One last question I see some people waxing after the dye -what is the point of this?

Lots of folks use wax. It provides a nice polished appearance when applied properly. Not as resistant to wear and abrasion as some other finishes.

Many of the finishes available (Resolene, Tan Kote, Bag Kote, Leather Sheen are some I have used) are actually absorbed into the surface of the leather. They might require heavier applications than one would think necessary.

I have recently gone to spray application of the final finish, primarily to speed up the production process. For years I found that a sponge thoroughly wetted with the finish to be applied and a moderately heavy application works very well. A final light buffing with an old towel or T-shirt helps bring out the final level of gloss.

For most items I prefer Fiebings Bag Kote. The finish is a soft luster rather than a high gloss, and adds some "depth" to the final effect. Resolene is also an excellent product, with a little higher gloss effect. Any of these provide good surface protection.

My suggestion for you is to apply your finish coat a little more heavily and, if necessary, don't hesitate to use a second application.

Best regards.

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don't forget about KIWI neutral shoe polish. Many famous saddle makers and toolers have used it and nothing else.

pete

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