shortening Chicago screw posts

[esantoro]

This is a big help. Thanks, Art

Ed

Hi Ed,

Yes, Weaver, I went into the shop, took a Weaver brass decorative head Chicago Screw bottom and (D5038-SB-1/4 made in Taiwan) threaded a pan headed anodized 8-32 x 1/2 out of a MSC box into it, and it fit perfectly, not loose and not tight, all the way to the bottom of the Weaver screw.

Art

[esantoro]

Mcmaster-Carr is looking into the possibility of ordering exactly what I need for a very good price, maybe $6 or $7 per 100.

I think a mini-hacksaw would also be good to have to shorten brass screws.

ed

Ed,

If you have the female part of the c/s, you may want to contact your local bolt-nut & screw folks and show them what you have and they can order in what you want/need. I ordered aluminum c/s from my nut&bolt company. I had to order in 100 pieces of each but it's worth it. I got the c/s in a couple different lengths for various leather thickness. When I use s/s or nickel buckles I use aluminum c/s and use brass buckles ... brass c/s.

Happy Tooling

Tim

[esantoro]

Rotary tool and cut-off wheel just worked perfectly without damage to the threads. The rotary tool is now on its way to overtaking duct tape as the most useful tool in the shop. Though, I still want one of those mini hack saws.

ed

[hidepounder]

Ed,

I shorten the female part of Chicago screws all the time...we're talking hundreds of them! I simply grind them down on a stationary belt sander...it takes less than two seconds.....been doing it for years! I grind the screws off also. Chicago screws are a standard 8-32 screw and you should be able to find many styles or machine screws to fit them. I wouldn't expect to find them at Lowes or Home Depot, more likely a good Hardware Store. I always order my silver with long screws so that I can cut it down to fit the thickness of the leather....piece of cake!

Bob

[TwinOaks]

Big Box hardware stores may have them under "sleeve bolt" or "threaded post and screw"..............you might even find them in a skate shop under the name

sex bolt

[esantoro]

I just confirmed that these female-end screw rivets are 6/32. Found some 2/8" 6/32 stainless steel truss head machine screws for a good price at Bolt Depot. That will do fine for the screws that are not exposed. I'll keep looking for solid brass truss head screws for the exposed applications.

By the way, am I going to have a difficult time grinding down or sawing off the ends of these stainless steel screws? Just curious, as I bought them at this length for applications that shouldn't require modification.

Ed

[hidepounder]

I just confirmed that these female-end screw rivets are 6/32. Found some 2/8" 6/32 stainless steel truss head machine screws for a good price at Bolt Depot. That will do fine for the screws that are not exposed. I'll keep looking for solid brass truss head screws for the exposed applications.

By the way, am I going to have a difficult time grinding down or sawing off the ends of these stainless steel screws? Just curious, as I bought them at this length for applications that shouldn't require modification.

Ed

Ed,

The problem with grinding the screws or the posts is always an issue of holding them. I use a pair of small needle nose vice grips. The other day I took a dremel and cut a small slot in each jaw near the tip of the jaws, just to get a better purchase and reducing the pressure necessary to hold the screw or post. Then just take it to a belt sander. The stainless is going to be much harder and is going to want to get hot, so I would use a more aggressive belt, and dip it in cold water a couple of times to cool it down. I can't image that temper is an issue with Chicago Screws.

Bob

[gtwister09]

Ed,

I too have used a belt sander for years for shortening them. Quick and easy - no fuss or muss. I presently use a pair of vise grips that has rubber covers for the teeth (Sears used to carry those rubber booties for the teeth). Before that I had relegated a pair of vise grips to this task and used Rubber Dip for the teeth to keep them from marking/marring the finish. When the rubber dip was torn up I would just re-dip the teeth.

As others have said, keep the screws cool. Only thing I would add is that you may want to chamfer the top edge slightly to aid in the alignment and screwing in of the screws.

Regards,

Ben

[HarryB]

I believe Lee Valley - Veritas carries a pair of specialty pliers that hold screws and nuts from the tip instead of the side. Great for holding while grinding. One way you can tell where your hardware is made: American made will usually be 8-32 threads and "foreign" made will usually be 5 mm I believe. Depending on the application, they are close enough to the same size that you can force a 8-32 bolt into the female side of the Chicago screw.

[Jordan]

Screws and barrels seemed to be pretty soft metal to me, so I just place them in a small machinist vice and lightly file them down with a fine tooth metal file, couple of minutes and viola! short chi screw set.