shortening Chicago screw posts

[esantoro]

Does anyone know of a method for shortening the female post of a chicago screw. I've got some female posts that are about 1/2" long and would like to be able to shorten them as needed. Using a hacksaw blade seems like it might damage the threads. Is there something like a small pipe cutter available?

Thanks,

Ed

[TwinOaks]

Ed, I drilled a hole in a piece of metal (sized for the CS) and just added washers until I had the amount I wanted to remove sticking out one side. Then it was dremel time.

For the male side, same thing, but I used a nut (pre-threaded on the post) to chase the threads after grinding.

Edited July 2, 2009 by TwinOaks

[esantoro]

Ed, I drilled a hole in a piece of metal (sized for the CS) and just added washers until I had the amount I wanted to remove sticking out one side. Then it was dremel time.

For the male side, same thing, but I used a nut (pre-threaded on the post) to chase the threads after grinding.

Mike,

Sounds like a great Plan A. Thanks.

ed

Does anyone happen to know what the thread size is on the Chicago Screws from Weaver? 6/32? 8/32?

ed

[Art]

Hi Ed,

They (the ones that I have) are 8-32.

Art

Mike,

Sounds like a great Plan A. Thanks.

ed

Does anyone happen to know what the thread size is on the Chicago Screws from Weaver? 6/32? 8/32?

ed

[TimKleffner]

If I need to shorten the female side of the chicago screw, I made a block out of scrap leather, which is as thick as the length I need the screw. Put a hole punch thu the leather then I use my bench sander to do the grinding. you can then tune as you go if you need it a bit shorter

Happy Tooling

Tim

[esantoro]

Thanks for the replies.

Art, are your CS from Weaver?

I've got some female/head ends here but no screws. They are a bit thinner than the Weaver CS, which I have on hand. I'm trying to find a source for solid brass truss head screws in the needed size, either 6/32 or 8/32, whatever a size smaller than that of the Weaver CS is.

Ed

[esantoro]

I had been putting off the purchase of a bench grinder, but this is the straw that broke the camel's back. I have ordered a bench grinder. I need it for one or two other things, and just couldn't put it off any longer.

ed

If I need to shorten the female side of the chicago screw, I made a block out of scrap leather, which is as thick as the length I need the screw. Put a hole punch thu the leather then I use my bench sander to do the grinding. you can then tune as you go if you need it a bit shorter

Happy Tooling

Tim

[TimKleffner]

Ed,

If you have the female part of the c/s, you may want to contact your local bolt-nut & screw folks and show them what you have and they can order in what you want/need. I ordered aluminum c/s from my nut&bolt company. I had to order in 100 pieces of each but it's worth it. I got the c/s in a couple different lengths for various leather thickness. When I use s/s or nickel buckles I use aluminum c/s and use brass buckles ... brass c/s.

Happy Tooling

Tim

[esantoro]

These screws do need to be brass. I found one supplier who is almost perfect. Great pricing, but round heads, not truss

http://www.smallparts.com/Brass-Round-Slot...amp;pf_rd_t=301

Lowes has something at about $.75 apiece. OTB has something that will be perfect if the thread size is appropriate at $14 per $100. The source above has the screws for about $3 per 100. Maybe I'll call and ask for truss head -- you never know.

ed

Ed,

If you have the female part of the c/s, you may want to contact your local bolt-nut & screw folks and show them what you have and they can order in what you want/need. I ordered aluminum c/s from my nut&bolt company. I had to order in 100 pieces of each but it's worth it. I got the c/s in a couple different lengths for various leather thickness. When I use s/s or nickel buckles I use aluminum c/s and use brass buckles ... brass c/s.

Happy Tooling

Tim

[Art]

Hi Ed,

Yes, Weaver, I went into the shop, took a Weaver brass decorative head Chicago Screw bottom and (D5038-SB-1/4 made in Taiwan) threaded a pan headed anodized 8-32 x 1/2 out of a MSC box into it, and it fit perfectly, not loose and not tight, all the way to the bottom of the Weaver screw.

Art

Thanks for the replies.

Art, are your CS from Weaver?

I've got some female/head ends here but no screws. They are a bit thinner than the Weaver CS, which I have on hand. I'm trying to find a source for solid brass truss head screws in the needed size, either 6/32 or 8/32, whatever a size smaller than that of the Weaver CS is.

Ed

[esantoro]

This is a big help. Thanks, Art

Ed

Hi Ed,

Yes, Weaver, I went into the shop, took a Weaver brass decorative head Chicago Screw bottom and (D5038-SB-1/4 made in Taiwan) threaded a pan headed anodized 8-32 x 1/2 out of a MSC box into it, and it fit perfectly, not loose and not tight, all the way to the bottom of the Weaver screw.

Art

[esantoro]

Mcmaster-Carr is looking into the possibility of ordering exactly what I need for a very good price, maybe $6 or $7 per 100.

I think a mini-hacksaw would also be good to have to shorten brass screws.

ed

Ed,

If you have the female part of the c/s, you may want to contact your local bolt-nut & screw folks and show them what you have and they can order in what you want/need. I ordered aluminum c/s from my nut&bolt company. I had to order in 100 pieces of each but it's worth it. I got the c/s in a couple different lengths for various leather thickness. When I use s/s or nickel buckles I use aluminum c/s and use brass buckles ... brass c/s.

Happy Tooling

Tim

[esantoro]

Rotary tool and cut-off wheel just worked perfectly without damage to the threads. The rotary tool is now on its way to overtaking duct tape as the most useful tool in the shop. Though, I still want one of those mini hack saws.

ed

[hidepounder]

Ed,

I shorten the female part of Chicago screws all the time...we're talking hundreds of them! I simply grind them down on a stationary belt sander...it takes less than two seconds.....been doing it for years! I grind the screws off also. Chicago screws are a standard 8-32 screw and you should be able to find many styles or machine screws to fit them. I wouldn't expect to find them at Lowes or Home Depot, more likely a good Hardware Store. I always order my silver with long screws so that I can cut it down to fit the thickness of the leather....piece of cake!

Bob

[TwinOaks]

Big Box hardware stores may have them under "sleeve bolt" or "threaded post and screw"..............you might even find them in a skate shop under the name

sex bolt

[esantoro]

I just confirmed that these female-end screw rivets are 6/32. Found some 2/8" 6/32 stainless steel truss head machine screws for a good price at Bolt Depot. That will do fine for the screws that are not exposed. I'll keep looking for solid brass truss head screws for the exposed applications.

By the way, am I going to have a difficult time grinding down or sawing off the ends of these stainless steel screws? Just curious, as I bought them at this length for applications that shouldn't require modification.

Ed

[hidepounder]

I just confirmed that these female-end screw rivets are 6/32. Found some 2/8" 6/32 stainless steel truss head machine screws for a good price at Bolt Depot. That will do fine for the screws that are not exposed. I'll keep looking for solid brass truss head screws for the exposed applications.

By the way, am I going to have a difficult time grinding down or sawing off the ends of these stainless steel screws? Just curious, as I bought them at this length for applications that shouldn't require modification.

Ed

Ed,

The problem with grinding the screws or the posts is always an issue of holding them. I use a pair of small needle nose vice grips. The other day I took a dremel and cut a small slot in each jaw near the tip of the jaws, just to get a better purchase and reducing the pressure necessary to hold the screw or post. Then just take it to a belt sander. The stainless is going to be much harder and is going to want to get hot, so I would use a more aggressive belt, and dip it in cold water a couple of times to cool it down. I can't image that temper is an issue with Chicago Screws.

Bob

[gtwister09]

Ed,

I too have used a belt sander for years for shortening them. Quick and easy - no fuss or muss. I presently use a pair of vise grips that has rubber covers for the teeth (Sears used to carry those rubber booties for the teeth). Before that I had relegated a pair of vise grips to this task and used Rubber Dip for the teeth to keep them from marking/marring the finish. When the rubber dip was torn up I would just re-dip the teeth.

As others have said, keep the screws cool. Only thing I would add is that you may want to chamfer the top edge slightly to aid in the alignment and screwing in of the screws.

Regards,

Ben

[HarryB]

I believe Lee Valley - Veritas carries a pair of specialty pliers that hold screws and nuts from the tip instead of the side. Great for holding while grinding. One way you can tell where your hardware is made: American made will usually be 8-32 threads and "foreign" made will usually be 5 mm I believe. Depending on the application, they are close enough to the same size that you can force a 8-32 bolt into the female side of the Chicago screw.

[Jordan]

Screws and barrels seemed to be pretty soft metal to me, so I just place them in a small machinist vice and lightly file them down with a fine tooth metal file, couple of minutes and viola! short chi screw set.

[LarryDonaldson]

You can use a drill press as a makeshift lathe. Chuck a threaded stud into your drill press, thread your female post onto it. Position a small toolroom vise on to your table with a turning tool placed horizontal in the vise. Usually your drill pres will have a depth stop so that you can repeat your cut length. It's actually very easy to do just keep your tool tip just under the part center line for good cutting action.

[10x]

Does any one know where I can find the barrel side only in 8-32 thread that is 1/4 high?

[WilliamWood]

Does anyone know of a method for shortening the female post of a chicago screw. I've got some female posts that are about 1/2" long and would like to be able to shorten them as needed. Using a hacksaw blade seems like it might damage the threads. Is there something like a small pipe cutter available?

Thanks,

Ed

Try this: Get an old door hinge, like what is usually on a front residence door, and enlarge one of the holes so the "female" Chicage screw will go through it. Insert the post so the head is inside the hinge. Clamp it so the other half of the hinge is shut against the head, holding it immoble (.49 cent tiny "C-clamp works very well.) Fasten bottom hinge leaf in a bench vise, gripping the edges, so it can be opened while clamped. Small, clamp-on type vise works very well. Take a very short 8 X 32 (or 6 X 32) hex socket socket screw (ACE Hardware, Midwest fastener boxes - treasure trove for leather workers!) that is shorter than what you want the female screw to end up being. (Also, I make a little washer that is the same thickness as the finished length I want, if I'm shortening more than 10 or so, and drop it over the exposed shaft. File till the file touches the washer. Keep them for future use.) Run the setscrew to the bottom of the tapped screw hole with appropriate-sized Allen wrench, an take 3 - 4 swipes across it with a good sharp 8" smooth file. Take a drill bit (1/4" works well) and use it to countersink the hole again. Back out the setscrew, and the threads are restored. Same hinge can be used to hold the male part for shortening. Get a 8 X 32 / 6 X 32 nut and run on the male shaft before shortening. Before removing the nut, "rock" the file around the shaft end to round it. When the nut is unscrewed, the threads are restored. I use an old worn-out .22 bronze bore brush to finish the shortened male end. All this takes 'way less time to do than to tell. Big deal is all the parts are usually in most workshops, and are free! You can do 50-75 in an hour or less, all exactly alike.. WWood- Wood's Gun Repair

Edited October 7, 2009 by WilliamWood