Attaching Leather to Plastic Rope Cans

[Kowboyboots]

Just trying to decide how to best attach a leather round to the plastic rope cans.

What do you think?

Thanks

KAthy

[bruce johnson]

Kathy,

I set the leather in place and drill my holes for conchos first. This helps with alignment once it is glued. I have to admit I have been an original Barge AP sniffer for years. I like some of the other properties of it a lot. I put a coat on the leather and let it dry. I rough up the surface of the can with a wire brush, add another light coat to the leather. As it is tacking I glue up the lid. Once it is tacky I use saddle spikes in the alignment holes to guide placement. If you have to reposition the glue pulls off the lid while still a damp. I press in place, working from the center around and out. I will weight it for 24 hours to cure, and (knocking on my head here) haven't had any come loose. I have reglued some for guys that the original maker told me he used Masters. He said it was cold in his shop and he may not have let it set enough before sticking them on and then shipping them out. That said I have been using a couple other cements since Barge changed and my stockpile is gone s of last week. The last ones I did with Renia. I have been using it on some other stuff. It tacks up a lot faster, and makes a strong bond right off the bat. Good stuff - apply it outside in the wind.

Also I like to use some conchos for to help hold them on too. At least if they ever come loose, the two parts will be together. One of the Master ones I reglued he shipped me the lid and the guy he traveled with for a while dropped off the leather - it fell off in his trailer and that's where it stayed. LOL.

[Kowboyboots]

Thank you Bruce, thats what I thought but thought I would ask.

Kathy

[hidepounder]

Kathy,

I set the leather in place and drill my holes for conchos first. This helps with alignment once it is glued. I have to admit I have been an original Barge AP sniffer for years. I like some of the other properties of it a lot. I put a coat on the leather and let it dry. I rough up the surface of the can with a wire brush, add another light coat to the leather. As it is tacking I glue up the lid. Once it is tacky I use saddle spikes in the alignment holes to guide placement. If you have to reposition the glue pulls off the lid while still a damp. I press in place, working from the center around and out. I will weight it for 24 hours to cure, and (knocking on my head here) haven't had any come loose. I have reglued some for guys that the original maker told me he used Masters. He said it was cold in his shop and he may not have let it set enough before sticking them on and then shipping them out. That said I have been using a couple other cements since Barge changed and my stockpile is gone s of last week. The last ones I did with Renia. I have been using it on some other stuff. It tacks up a lot faster, and makes a strong bond right off the bat. Good stuff - apply it outside in the wind.

Also I like to use some conchos for to help hold them on too. At least if they ever come loose, the two parts will be together. One of the Master ones I reglued he shipped me the lid and the guy he traveled with for a while dropped off the leather - it fell off in his trailer and that's where it stayed. LOL.

I'm really curious about the Masters Cement. I was getting to like it. Do you attribute the separation from improper gluing methods or is there and issue with using Masters on metal and fiberglass? I, like you, am a Barge fan and can still get it here in Phoenix. I have used it to glue everything imaginable together, including metal and have never had a failure yet. I do put some emphasis on the prep, however.

Bob

[MADMAX22]

Just a thought but if you could incorporate rivets into the design you could rivet some of the edges to help hold them on. Still glue it though.

Ontop of the glueing if you wanted to stitch you could but would have to drill the holes.

[bruce johnson]

Bob,

Maybe some of the suppliers can chime in here about Barge. There is a toluene free formula out now. I don't know if the original formula is still available or not. On one of the boot and shoe forums they were talking about the new formula, and you needed to stir or shake it if it sat very long - the solvent and base will separate. The guys who didn't get the message from their suppliers thought it was really thin and didn't bond well. Then they found the sludge at the bottom. I bought up 12 gallons when the old stuff was on the way out. I learned with Barge and knew what to expect with that. My friend was using Masters and he liked it because it would bond latigo. He switched to Renia and another guy was using EMU sar something. I bought a gallon of each to compare. The EMU is alright - nothing spectacular. The Renia is stronger and faster setting. You better like where you set something the first time or get it off quick. I am back to using the wax paper trick. I have not got a chance to put it on anything and work it wet like you can with Barge on a swell cover for instance. I was saving my last of the Barge for that, and used it up on this last one. I am liking the Renia a lot for everything else so far once I figured it out. You can put it on dry leather, let it dry, dunk it, and it retacks with heat like Barge.

About the can covers coming off. They had never had many come off before and used Masters for all of them. I saw one from them, then a call a week later about another one. I called the shop that did them about the problem as a "heads up" and so I didn't do what they were. He had already had a few calls. These were ordered in late November. They had a cold snap and that was when it happened. They figured that they just rushed it bit with waiting for the glue to tack enough, and not waiting to ship when cured. Might have been deal with that can of glue. These guys were going to the buildings. Coming out of a freezing trailer into humid indoor arenas might have been a factor too.

[RichardCollmorgen]

On Bruce's advice from an earlier thread (thanks again Bruce), I've used Barges like he said and I've had good luck. I've only done five of them for nieces and a nephew but they have held up good.

[hidepounder]

Thanks Bruce,

It sounds like an application problem but I was just curious. On another note, I keep hearing about Barge (old formula) not being available....is that just California? The last time I checked it was still available here....is that just old stock? Do I need to be buying it all up like I did with the NeatLac?

Bob

[Dink]

Bruce

I have been gluing all my tops on rope cans with masters and have not had any problems yet (also knocking on wood). I glue up both sides and let dry. Then I glue up both sides a second time and dry it tacky or a little beyond with a heat gun to activate, then put the top on and press it real good from the middle out and leave over night. I also take a palm sander to the lid prior to gluing and then clean good with thinner befor applying glue.

This is probably no better of a bond than you are getting, but so far has been a succesful way of applying rope can tops with Masters cement.

Dink