Pocket Holsters

[Shorts]

I was curious how you build a pocket holster. No no smart guys, I know how to make a holster But rather, what are the considerations and things that must be known in order to build a pocket holster?

Do you need to know the type of pants worn? Front or back pocket? Shape?

I've never made one but thinking, why not? What do I need to know to make a good functional pocket holster?

[JoelR]

This is my personal preference as an experienced handgun owner and daily concealed carrier not as a leather worker (as I have very little experience in that aspect). I'm sure others can add more.

1) First consideration is printing. The firearm shape must be reasonably hidden by the holster and be a recognizable shape. Carrying in a pocket, the holster will print. If it does not look like a wallet, phone, checkbook, etc. it MAY draw attention. I consider this a safety issue - the guys with the guns get shot first in a SHTF scenario - but it could be a law-enforcement issue as well depending on local CCW laws. If the holster works for jeans back-pocket, it should work for every other pocket. Obviously this is dependent on the firearm itself. I personally would not try to rear-pocket carry a snub-nosed revolver, but I might a KAHR CW9. Also, consider why the user is carrying a pocketable firearm instead of a fuller-framed firearm. Is it just for comfort and simplicity, their dress at the time, or are they carrying in an environment that a firearm may not be welcome - all the more reason to fully hide the shape and make it look like something it is not. Take into consideration that the user will be doing normal activities. If the holster is hidden well when standing up, will it hide equally as well when sitting down? If designed for rear-pockets, is it going to poke out? If designed for loose slacks, the outline better look like a wallet or phone when sitting down.

2) Retention of firearm. With the corners of the holster sticking out, they will bump into things if carried in a loose pocket. If the firearm is not held in place with a reasonable amount of force, the firearm will dislodge.

3) Retention of holster. If you have to draw, you have to draw in a hurry. A holster that comes out with the firearm makes the firearm unusable until the holster is removed. This adds precious seconds to the draw. Additionally, if you have to rip the holster off after you have drawn with your non-draw hand you have MOST LIKELY done two things: 1) exposed a portion of your body to the muzzle-end of the firearm. 2) forced yourself to shoot a very small gun, single-handed in a high-stress environment. Additionally, if there is a possibility that the holster will be carried in a breast pocket, you can't have the thing falling out every time you bend over to pick something up.

4) Grip. As with all holster designs, you need to ensure you can get a positive grip on the firearm before drawing. This means that the covering must be stiff-enough to conceal the firearm shape, but flexible enough to bend out of the way when I go to draw. For these micro-compacts, getting a good initial grip is a necessity. There is very little weight to hold the firearm down during recoil so a bad grip could do anything from throwing off your initial shot, to causing the firearm to fail to cycle properly, to knocking the firearm from your hand.

5) Overall Size. This kind of goes with 1 and 4. If the entire outline is too large, I'm going to feel uncomfortable using it. Yes, it may not look anything like a firearm printing in my pocket, but I know it is and tend to project that. Many others will feel the same. Additionally, the cover must be designed in a way that there is enough overlap of the firearm that I can easily get my fingers between it and the firearm when I go to draw. Too much of a cover with too flimsy of a leather and it will eventually roll over the butt of the firearm. Too short, and I'll waste time trying to feel for where the butt ends and leather begins so I can get my fingers between the cover and firearm.

6) Not really about the firearm holster, but something to consider: Extra magazines. Micro compacts don't usually hold too much ammo. It's always comforting to have an extra magazine or two in another pocket. Just floating around, trying to get a good grip on an extra mag to do an emergency reload sucks and in a real hurry, any extra magazines in the same pocket tend to come out with the first. Also consider that extra magazines that ride in the same holster as the firearm are not easily accessible (try reaching into your right pocket with your left hand and pulling a pack of gum out quickly).

I've personally never owned a pocket holster - I prefer a tuckable and have never really owned anything I felt was small enough to carry in a pocket - but these are the things I would look for if I ever did.

[Tac]

Shorts.... JoelR covers alot of ground in his post.... Most of it is relevent and accurate. I have several pocket holsters. some I bought, some I made, for both J-frame revolvers and small autos like my Kel-tec P3AT and my PF-9.

I look at where the gun is to be carried first. Front pocket carry has different requirements than back pocket. I also want to make sure that the holster stays in the pocket when I draw. My next concern is that the holster break up the outline of the gun so that it doesn't print like a gun..... by that I mean, you expect it to print, but not to look like a gun. It doesn't have to look like a wallet or phone, but it shouldn't be obvious that the bulge in my pocket is a revolver.

I have found that the vast majority of my "pocket carry" is usually done in the winter time, when I am wearing a jacket that precludes me from drawing from the waist without disrobing.... For that purpose, due to the larger pockets involved (coat pockets), I want a holster that will keep the gun in position within the pocket. I don't want the gun floating around in the pocket or inverting. It should be in the same place each time I put my hand in the pocket.

The best holster I have found for my needs (so far) is the DeSantis 'Nemisis' holster... It is a synthetic rig with a rubber-like outer surface that sticks to the pocket like fly paper! They are also pretty cheap... I have tried my hand at improving on the pocket holster with leather versions I have made myself, and I always end up with the DeSantis holster back in my pocket...

(Not to discourage you, just passing on my experience and my preference.... remember... my opinion is worth exactly what you paid for it! )

Hope this helps...

-Tac

Edited July 17, 2009 by Tac

[JoelR]

See, now I knew I would miss something not having owned one - +1 on keeping the firearm in a static position. Can't go fumbling around trying and find the grip when you have to draw.

[Shorts]

Thanks for the tips. I don't pocket carry either so it's all news to me. I'm OWB/IWB flavor

The most glaring characteristic I see is drawing without presenting the holster. Keeping the leather stayed put while still allowing proper grip is important. Of course, keeping the profile down in the pocket but that's all moot if the tool can't even be utilized.

Edited July 17, 2009 by Shorts

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

Well, pocket holsters aren't my normal thing, but I have made a couple. The considerations I take into account and the features I try to accomplish are:

1. To make sure the pistol is held in the pocket at the same place every time - this is a big help for consistent draw practice.

2. To make sure the trigger guard is completely covered - you sure don't want to pull the trigger while you are trying to establish a grip.

3. To protect the cylinder or the breech from any lint or debris - this is overlooked sometimes, but I have seen an LCP that was so locked up from a small piece of lint it took a rubber mallet and a bench vise to get it apart (a fun task with a loaded pistol).

4. To camouflage the shape of the pistol so it doesn't look like a firearm.

5. To allow a consistent, positive grip on the pistol before it leaves the pocket.

6. To make sure the holster stays in the pocket when the pistol clears leather.

We want to see some pics when you get one built! (no pressure or anything, though )

[JoelR]

Sounds about right to me. Of course, in the world of custom you can always taylor to specific pockets and the like but the holster will outlast the pocket it is made for, hands down...

Tac, ever try the stuff they sell at home improvement stores to keep throw-rugs in place as a holster backing to keep it still in a pocket? Don't know how durable the stuff is...

[Shorts]

What weight am I looking at for leather?

Interesting about the synthetic material for the sticky. Worth a look.

Jeff, no pressure

[Tac]

JoelR,

Interstingly enough, I did try the material that my wife uses to line drawers with (I think its similar to what you are talking about) and it worked pretty well to prevent the holster from moving around, but it didn't hold up well. I guess it wasn't meant to handle all the movement. It tore out where I stitched it and I had to repair it several times. Might have been my design though. I finally came to the conclusion that I couldn't better the DeSantis desing I was trying to emulate and when I figured out the cost, I was actually spending a little more than what the factory holster cost me... So I gave up.

Shorts,

Jeff is right on target with his comments. I shold have mentioned the "link factor", as I have seen some strange things end up stuck in a gun after it was carried in a pocket.... (coins, sticks of gum, etc.)

-Tac

[JoelR]

Tac,

The stuff you are talking about is simply foam, they make another material that is more like fabric. Of course, it's more expensive too... Stuff meant to line tool-boxes might be worth considering as well (well, not the stuff that is simply black shelf liner with all the puffyness and holes). It's like a soft rubber mat material and is pretty durable. At least it's held up to me tossing my tools into my toolbox drawers from 10+ feet...