Members redwoodsaddlery Posted February 18, 2010 Members Report Posted February 18, 2010 Thanks Bob. That was a great article.
Hennessy Posted March 16, 2010 Report Posted March 16, 2010 Butchkitty, I'm really glad you found my article helpful! I use parafin which comes in a brick. I think I bought it at the grocery store. The parafin is good over the bees was and adds a little polish. Bees wax doesn't polish that well. I have been experimenting with using bees wax after I dye the edges, and then using parafin on top of that, just like you're talking about, but to be honest I haven't seen where the addition of bees wax has added anything. It certainly can't hurt, that's for sure! I don't know anything about seal oil soap...what can you tell me about it? Bob howdy bob,when i was a bit of a nipper back in australia i worked in two old prestigious shops awhile,i recall we used edge irons which we heated over a candle,then whilst hot stuck it into a block of beeswax then run th iron down the edge it had a concave wide edge and did a nice job.barra an aussie member in here could bring you to a total knowledge of this application pete
hidepounder Posted March 16, 2010 Author Report Posted March 16, 2010 howdy bob,when i was a bit of a nipper back in australia i worked in two old prestigious shops awhile,i recall we used edge irons which we heated over a candle,then whilst hot stuck it into a block of beeswax then run th iron down the edge it had a concave wide edge and did a nice job.barra an aussie member in here could bring you to a total knowledge of this application pete Hi Pete.....I have heard of using heated irons for edging but have never seen it done. I have wondered how finishing an edge that way would effect dying the edge. It seems logical that a more durable edge would result from using the irons, however I would think it would still be necessary to polish the edge with parafin or something similar to provide a high lister. I'd like to see the irons used some time.... Bobby
Members Messser Posted July 7, 2010 Members Report Posted July 7, 2010 A simply dye edges is a black permanent marker edding 3000 Is simply, cheap and, for me, works in thick leather
Members Rawl Posted August 16, 2010 Members Report Posted August 16, 2010 It's out with the X-Acto knife and in with the soaps and power tools! It seems there's always a better way to do things, if only you can find/figure it out -- thanks for sharing!
Members ToddB 68 Posted September 5, 2010 Members Report Posted September 5, 2010 (edited) Hi Bob ! I'm a beginner at leatherwork and making a tool sheath out of 12oz. Veg-tanned cowhide, following your "Finishing Edges" tutorial. After steps 3) Wet & Soap and 5) Dye, are there drying intervals before burnishing, or do you go right on to the next step ? Thanks for the help. ToddB68 Edited September 5, 2010 by ToddB68
hidepounder Posted September 5, 2010 Author Report Posted September 5, 2010 Hi Todd! When I'm doing edges I will wet, soap and burnish and I often dye immediately after burnishing. It is a very good idea to let the dye completely dry after dying the edge if you have the time to do so. It will help it to not come off on your hands quite so easily while you are handling the piece. When completely dry, buff to a shine until all residue stops coming off the piece. Hope this helps..... Bobby
Members SimonJester753 Posted September 6, 2010 Members Report Posted September 6, 2010 Thanks for the article. I have a few questions. It seems as if this is the type of finishing you'd do on a belt or wallet. Would this be the type of finish you'd use on something that was going to get exposed to rain, dirt, etc? Why wouldn't you dye the edge after edging it?
Members ToddB 68 Posted September 6, 2010 Members Report Posted September 6, 2010 Hi Todd! When I'm doing edges I will wet, soap and burnish and I often dye immediately after burnishing. It is a very good idea to let the dye completely dry after dying the edge if you have the time to do so. It will help it to not come off on your hands quite so easily while you are handling the piece. When completely dry, buff to a shine until all residue stops coming off the piece. Hope this helps..... Bobby Thanks Bob ! Yes, that helped a lot. ToddB68
hidepounder Posted September 7, 2010 Author Report Posted September 7, 2010 Thanks for the article. I have a few questions. It seems as if this is the type of finishing you'd do on a belt or wallet. Would this be the type of finish you'd use on something that was going to get exposed to rain, dirt, etc? Why wouldn't you dye the edge after edging it? Hi SimonJester753. I use this method to finish the edges on everything I make. It is the same method that has been used in saddle shops all across the country for many years. Of course there are some variations from maker to maker. Some add more steps, some eliminate steps I suppose. Anyway I would use this on saddles, holsters, cases or anything that has exposed edges regardless of what it is exposed to. If you are asking why I do not dye before I burnish, it is because when the edge of the leather is raw and unburnished, I am unable to get a nice clean dye line because my alcohol dye spreads as it soaks in. However once the edge is burnished it does not absorb the dye as fast and I am able to get a very clean dye line. I hope this answers your questions.... Bobby
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