Members qlthreadhead Posted February 28, 2012 Members Report Posted February 28, 2012 Hi Beka, I only use Fiebings spirit based ( alcohol) dye on my edges. It penetrates quickly and dries quickly as well. I have never used an oil based dye on my edges but the feedback I get indicates that it doesn't penetrate as well. I know it takes a lot longer to dry, also, which is problematic because of the likelihood of picking up dye on your hands and transferring it on the surface which will ruin the piece. The edge dye that Fiebings makes is very thick and slow to penetate. I don't use it. Hope this helps.... Bobby thank you so much! I picked up some of the regular alcohol-based dye that fiebings makes and tested it on a few edges -- not only does it give a much better result, but it's also better dye overall. you need less applications and it soaks in way faster. appreciate your help bob! don't fall off the roof....
Members mnagis Posted March 6, 2012 Members Report Posted March 6, 2012 Thanks for the tutorial Bob. As a newbie, this is invaluable information. Can these same steps work with non-veg tanned leather, such as shell cordovan which is much more dense? Also, as a final dumb question, how do you wrap the motorized wood burnishing wheel with canvas? I may be picturing what you mean incorrectly. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks again, Mark
hidepounder Posted March 7, 2012 Author Report Posted March 7, 2012 (edited) Thanks for the tutorial Bob. As a newbie, this is invaluable information. Can these same steps work with non-veg tanned leather, such as shell cordovan which is much more dense? Also, as a final dumb question, how do you wrap the motorized wood burnishing wheel with canvas? I may be picturing what you mean incorrectly. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks again, Mark Hi Mark, I don't know what shell cordovan is so I can't comment on it. In general, chrome tanned leather just doesn't burnish. There are some exceptions, though. Sometimes exotics like alligator and ostrich can be skived very thin and glued to a piece of veg tanned leather and then they will burnish acceptably. For the canvas, I just taped it on with elelctrical tape, saturated it with water & saddle soap and then formed it to the wood. After a time it will completely form to the wood and the flap will stay down. Hope this helps..... Bobby Edited March 7, 2012 by hidepounder
Members Chavez Posted March 7, 2012 Members Report Posted March 7, 2012 Hi Bob! Thank you for the great tutorial! I've read that someone was using felt bobins to burnish the edges. Does anyone know if I need to put some saddle soap or wax on them first? I've tried burnishing with them and the result was not great =(
hidepounder Posted March 8, 2012 Author Report Posted March 8, 2012 Hi Bob! Thank you for the great tutorial! I've read that someone was using felt bobins to burnish the edges. Does anyone know if I need to put some saddle soap or wax on them first? I've tried burnishing with them and the result was not great =( I can't answer your question because I've never tried them. I stick with the canvas and saddle soap simply because "if it ain't broke don't fix it!"
Members Bluesman Posted March 8, 2012 Members Report Posted March 8, 2012 I can't answer your question because I've never tried them. I stick with the canvas and saddle soap simply because "if it ain't broke don't fix it!" I do it Like Bob............................Work's Great. Some work, but great results. Good things don't happen without some sweat............. If it ain't moving and should......WD40, If it's moving and shouldn't....Duct Tape. There you have it, now fix something
Members AdrianS Posted April 27, 2012 Members Report Posted April 27, 2012 Hello, I'm quite new to leather working. I know most of you use thick vegetable tanned leathers, but would this method work on softer, chrome tanned upholstery leathers? I tried a similar technique and the edge looked great, but after a lot of flex, the burnished wax turned into a big crumbly mess. Perhaps someone here can suggest a method for softer leathers? Thank you.
hidepounder Posted May 1, 2012 Author Report Posted May 1, 2012 Hello, I'm quite new to leather working. I know most of you use thick vegetable tanned leathers, but would this method work on softer, chrome tanned upholstery leathers? I tried a similar technique and the edge looked great, but after a lot of flex, the burnished wax turned into a big crumbly mess. Perhaps someone here can suggest a method for softer leathers? Thank you. Hi Adrian! Unfortunately chrome tanned leather won't burnish. Best to do a bound edge. However if it is combined with a piece of veg tanned leather burnishing is possible by skiving the chrome tanned leather paper thin before gluing to the the veg tan. Hope this helps.... Bobby
Members Bard Skye Posted May 10, 2012 Members Report Posted May 10, 2012 Bob First off, Thank You! for the tutorial. I had no idea of how to deal with edges until I read it. My edges still need a lot of work, but at least now it looks like I have a clue or two. (Practice, practice, practice! Likewise for my stitching....) I have a couple of questions. I just finished a magazine holster for a friend. As you can see in the first pic, the base piece flares out to accomodate the belt loops. I burnished and polished the top portion of the box edges before stitching it to the base, then completed the edge work after. The finished edge took a bit of a beating during stiching, so I'm not real happy with it. I was wondering how you would have handled this. In the second pic, the arrows point to what looks like a dividing line between the box and base. It's not. The line is about half way through the thickness of the base. I've had this happen on several pieces now. It seems like as soon as I have one sanded out, another one appears. Any ideas why this might be happening? Thanks. Skye
hidepounder Posted May 11, 2012 Author Report Posted May 11, 2012 Skye, Every project is different. Sometimes I sew before I finish my edges and sometimes the other way around. I sew with a machine so it's not quite as hard on the edges as hand sewing is. I think you might be sewing a little too close to the edge and for me your thread is too heavy. I prefer lighter thread than heavy. The way to get around beating up the edge is to leave everything oversized and then trim back to your sewing and finish the edge. The lines appear to be where you have glued pieces together, but if that's not the case I'm not sure what is going on there. I think I'd have to see it person to get a better idea....sorry! Take care.... Bobby Bob First off, Thank You! for the tutorial. I had no idea of how to deal with edges until I read it. My edges still need a lot of work, but at least now it looks like I have a clue or two. (Practice, practice, practice! Likewise for my stitching....) I have a couple of questions. I just finished a magazine holster for a friend. As you can see in the first pic, the base piece flares out to accomodate the belt loops. I burnished and polished the top portion of the box edges before stitching it to the base, then completed the edge work after. The finished edge took a bit of a beating during stiching, so I'm not real happy with it. I was wondering how you would have handled this. In the second pic, the arrows point to what looks like a dividing line between the box and base. It's not. The line is about half way through the thickness of the base. I've had this happen on several pieces now. It seems like as soon as I have one sanded out, another one appears. Any ideas why this might be happening? Thanks. Skye
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