What machines do I need?

[chouinardragon]

Hi guys,

I'm about to buy some sewing machines to make backpack which has leather bottom and patches,just like the old the North Face teardrop day pack. I checked the leather patch of my old the North Face day back and found they are twin stitches and there are 10 stitches per inch. But there're only 8 stitches per inch of the leather bottom.

Does it mean that I need 2 leather sewing machine?

(My old the North Face teardrop day pack are made from nylon/rip-stop and 3mm leather)

What kind of sewing machines will you command on making the leather bottom and patches of backpack?

Also,does anyone who ever works for outdoor gear company? I would like to know what kind of machines are needed to make a teardrop day pack,especially cylinder sewing machine is needed or not.

Thank you guys!

Chouinardragon

[barra]

Hi guys,

I'm about to buy some sewing machines to make backpack which has leather bottom and patches,just like the old the North Face teardrop day pack. I checked the leather patch of my old the North Face day back and found they are twin stitches and there are 10 stitches per inch. But there're only 8 stitches per inch of the leather bottom.

Does it mean that I need 2 leather sewing machine?

(My old the North Face teardrop day pack are made from nylon/rip-stop and 3mm leather)

What kind of sewing machines will you command on making the leather bottom and patches of backpack?

Also,does anyone who ever works for outdoor gear company? I would like to know what kind of machines are needed to make a teardrop day pack,especially cylinder sewing machine is needed or not.

Thank you guys!

I make similar gear at work. We run Pfaff 1245's and they will do all you need to make packs like that and then some.

Barra

Chouinardragon

[Cobra Steve]

Hi Chouinardragon, Barra is right, however, you mentioned in your post something about 2 rows of stitches. This is normally done with a double needle walking foot machine. Sometimes you can sew 1 row and then the next, but you better be pretty good at sewing straight or it will not look professional. They also use a double needle for strength. You can change the stitch length on any machine. Thanks, Steve

[chouinardragon]

Thanks a lot guys,it really helps a lot.

To Cobra:

What kind of double needle walking foot machine will you recommend?

To Barra:

I checked the Pfaff 1245's and found there're some series of it. Which Pfaff 1245 series would fit my needs?

Making a the North Face day pack that I attached needs a cylinder machine?

Except single and double needle walking foot machines,what else should I get? Singer 269W-1208 bar tacker or Singer 269W box cross pattern tacker? Any others?

Thanks

Chouinardragon

[chouinardragon]

Hi Chouinardragon, Barra is right, however, you mentioned in your post something about 2 rows of stitches. This is normally done with a double needle walking foot machine. Sometimes you can sew 1 row and then the next, but you better be pretty good at sewing straight or it will not look professional. They also use a double needle for strength. You can change the stitch length on any machine. Thanks, Steve

Hi Steve,

I think there's a misunderstanding of the 2 rows of stitches. What I meant is there're 2 threads of each stitch of the North Face attachment patch. Please check the attached file. Do they stitch it twice or what kind of machine they use?

Thanks!

Chouinardragon

[Cobra Steve]

Hi Steve,

I think there's a misunderstanding of the 2 rows of stitches. What I meant is there're 2 threads of each stitch of the North Face attachment patch. Please check the attached file. Do they stitch it twice or what kind of machine they use?

Thanks!

Chouinardragon

Hi, after looking at the photo, it looks to me like it was not sewn twice(on top of each other), because that would be almost impossible to do, especially at the corners. It was probably done on a machine that is capable of sewing with a heavier thread. The thread looks to be a 207 or 277. You could use 207 on top and 138 in the bobbin. Make sure that the machine that you buy, has the capabilities to handle this combination. Thanks, Steve

[barra]

Thanks a lot guys,it really helps a lot.

To Cobra:

What kind of double needle walking foot machine will you recommend?

To Barra:

I checked the Pfaff 1245's and found there're some series of it. Which Pfaff 1245 series would fit my needs?

Making a the North Face day pack that I attached needs a cylinder machine?

Except single and double needle walking foot machines,what else should I get? Singer 269W-1208 bar tacker or Singer 269W box cross pattern tacker? Any others?

Thanks

Chouinardragon

I don't see a need for a box tacker. Your box or gate stich pattern can just as easily be formed manually on something like a 1245. I had a little animation on the sequence of forming a gate stitch that I will see if I can dig up. A bar tacker may be handy but I don't see as essential. Maybe a machine you can add at a later date unless money is not an issue.

Barra

[chouinardragon]

I don't see a need for a box tacker. Your box or gate stich pattern can just as easily be formed manually on something like a 1245. I had a little animation on the sequence of forming a gate stitch that I will see if I can dig up. A bar tacker may be handy but I don't see as essential. Maybe a machine you can add at a later date unless money is not an issue.

Barra

Hi Barra

Do you think that Pfaff 1245 has the capabilities of threading size 207 thread on top and size 138 on the bobbin?

By the way,I saw a Pfaff 1245 on ebay with servo motor,sells for $900. Is it a fair price?

Thanks!

Chouinardragon

[barra]

$900 sounds dirt cheap, why I am asking myself.

As for threads. it will easily take 207 top thread and 138 Bobbin thread. you would then use say about a size 160 needle.

While not the best pic, this bag was all done on a Pfaff 1245

Barra

Edited September 2, 2009 by barra

[chouinardragon]

$900 sounds dirt cheap, why I am asking myself.

As for threads. it will easily take 207 top thread and 138 Bobbin thread. you would then use say about a size 160 needle.

While not the best pic, this bag was all done on a Pfaff 1245

Barra

Hi Barra,

Wow~ You're really good at making bags. Is your Pfaff 1245 equipped with servo motor?

I just downloaded a manual of Pfaff 1245 which shows that there're some subclasses of 1245.

Which 1245 subclass you recommend that would fit my needs? Or it doesn't make any difference?

Thanks and sorry for taking you so much time to answer my questions.

Chouinard

[barra]

Hi Barra,

Wow~ You're really good at making bags. Is your Pfaff 1245 equipped with servo motor?

I just downloaded a manual of Pfaff 1245 which shows that there're some subclasses of 1245.

Which 1245 subclass you recommend that would fit my needs? Or it doesn't make any difference?

Thanks and sorry for taking you so much time to answer my questions.

Chouinard

Our Pfaffs all have clutch motors. Speed is attained by the foot control of the operator. I'll have a look at a manual when I get into work to see what you mean by different classes. If your referring to the 1246, this is the double needle variant.

Barra

[Art]

Hi Barra,

I think he is referring to the fruit salad of numbers and letters that Pfaff put after the model number to denote which optional equipment the machine had installed. Here is the current brochure for the new model 1245, the numbers are close to the old models.

Art

Our Pfaffs all have clutch motors. Speed is attained by the foot control of the operator. I'll have a look at a manual when I get into work to see what you mean by different classes. If your referring to the 1246, this is the double needle variant.

Barra

Pfaff1245brochure.pdf

Pfaff1245brochure.pdf

[chouinardragon]

Hi Barra,

I think he is referring to the fruit salad of numbers and letters that Pfaff put after the model number to denote which optional equipment the machine had installed. Here is the current brochure for the new model 1245, the numbers are close to the old models.

Art

Hi Art & Barra,

Something about subclass is written on the ( Possible models and subclasses ) of Pfaff 1245 instruction manual. I'm not quite sure if they have subclass or not. You guys may check it out if you're interested.

Thank you guys.

Chouinardragon

Edited September 3, 2009 by chouinardragon

[barra]

Sect 3 of the manual. Specifications

Possible models and sub classes.

Model B - For processing medium materials

Model C - For processing medium-heavy materials

Additional equipment

sub class -900/56 - thread trimmer

sub class -910/04 - automatic presser - foot lifter

sub class -911/35 - bartacker

The model B and C has me stumped. I looked at the compliance plate on one of ours and there is no mention of model B or C

[chouinardragon]

Sect 3 of the manual. Specifications

Possible models and sub classes.

Model B - For processing medium materials

Model C - For processing medium-heavy materials

Additional equipment

sub class -900/56 - thread trimmer

sub class -910/04 - automatic presser - foot lifter

sub class -911/35 - bartacker

The model B and C has me stumped. I looked at the compliance plate on one of ours and there is no mention of model B or C

Hi Barra

Thanks for the information. Additional equipment means that if Pfaff 1245 doesn't be equipped with automatic presser or tread trimmer,it can still fit my needs,right?

Cheers,

Chouinardragon

[barra]

Hi Barra

Thanks for the information. Additional equipment means that if Pfaff 1245 doesn't be equipped with automatic presser or tread trimmer,it can still fit my needs,right?

Cheers,

Chouinardragon

Definately. Those additional options will only be beneficial if you are geared up for some serious mass production. So a stock standard 1245 will do just fine.

On a side note. There are many other machines that will also suit you. I don't know where you are located but it would not hurt to have a chat to Cobra Steve. His class 18 might suit your needs. Ferdco also make a 1245 clone.

Barra

[chouinardragon]

Definately. Those additional options will only be beneficial if you are geared up for some serious mass production. So a stock standard 1245 will do just fine.

On a side note. There are many other machines that will also suit you. I don't know where you are located but it would not hurt to have a chat to Cobra Steve. His class 18 might suit your needs. Ferdco also make a 1245 clone.

Barra

Hi Barra

I'm located in Taiwan where it's not easy to get these industrial sewing machines.

By the way,I will consider other sewing machines you mentioned.

Thanks a lot.

Chouinardragon

[leatherkind]

Hi Chouinardragon.

I was in similar situation this spring when i was trying to make a choice of the machine.

Please do not underestimate the requirements for the machine.

I just finished a bag and was surprised how thick some folds can get.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25239&view=findpost&p=213686

I found these Wizcrafts' comments very helpful too:

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25239&view=findpost&p=159571

In case you have seen it already or not interested please forgive me for wasting your time.

Good luck with your projects!

[Anne Bonnys Locker]

I have sent you a PM with a contact in Taiwan.

If you are going into production and are doing this for income then I have some qualms about a second hand machine. Don't get me wrong as a good 30 year old PFAFF is still probably a better machine than two thirds of the new machines on the market but unless you know the maintenance history of the machine then it could cost more to keep going in the first 12 months than what you have paid for it. In a production situation you must consider availability of parts and technicians who understand the machine.

Poor maintenance will kill a high mileage machine as effectively as dropping it off a building.

Hi Barra

I'm located in Taiwan where it's not easy to get these industrial sewing machines.

By the way,I will consider other sewing machines you mentioned.

Thanks a lot.

Chouinardragon