jbradford Report post Posted September 13, 2009 I'm a beginner and learning. Very serious about making it right. This is the 3rd leather tally book I've made, but the first one I've tried to put any type of "finish" on. Some things I feel like I've learned and would appreciate any advice on you care to offer. It would be very beneficial to me. It's difficult to lay out a pattern and have it come out exact. Since this pattern involves basically working inside a box, the barbed wire hasn't come out exact yet. I've about decided I'm laying it out backwards. I've been cutting in the double lines, and then tooling everything inside "the box". You can see the barb wire did not lay out perfectly. Maybe I need to work from the center and then out? Then the double cut line would just wind up where ever it needs to be? Not sure if I'm describing this well. I oiled with neatsfoot, then a coat of conditioner, then two coats of Bee Natural Leathercare "RTC" Sheridan Resist & Finish, then some paste antique. Letting the antique dry and then plan on a couple of coats of Fiebing's Acrylic Resolene to protect it all. Is this about right? I burnished the edges using some beeswax and then put on some edge dye. This doesn't seem to be correct cuz the edge coat is beading up due to the wax. What is correct? Also, the stitching absolutely kicks by b***. I've been using a 3 prong punch. I'm using needles that have sharpened edges along with wax thread. It literally takes me about an hour and a half to sew up both sides. Appreciate your help! Jim Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hidepounder Report post Posted September 13, 2009 Jim, You're doing it right....establish your border then draw your pattern inside of it. Also, there is no rule that says your barbed wire has to be inside your border....it is frequently used outside the border. With paste antique, it is unusual to let it dry. It is typically rubbed in and then wiped off and polished. Other than that your process is correct. I'm not sure you need to add oil and a conditioner. If it were me, I would probably just use the oil. When it comes to edges here is an article that may help. It is posted on the main page under "More Tips & Tricks" Hope this helps...... Bobby Finishing Edges.pdf Finishing Edges.pdf Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pete Report post Posted September 13, 2009 Jim- I think that you did a really nice job. Aside from Bob's suggestions, I would have used a littler camo around the basketweave. I usually put the camo impressions at a 45* in the corners first and then do the borders, fudging where I have to. Even when they get a little cramped it still looks good to the eye when the corners are perfect. Just a suggestion. keep it up- you did a fine piece- I'de carry it! pete Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bran7347 Report post Posted September 14, 2009 Jim I think you did a really good job. I don't have a stiching machine and also hand sew everything and get sick of it, but I was visiting with a guy the other day and he told me to take my awl shaft and put it in a drill press. Groove and run your stich wheel over your job just like normal, then take and chuck up the awl shaft and line it up and go to town punching your holes. I know thats not how Al Stolman says to do it but man it works. It seems like it took 75% of the work out of it, and your stiching looks just as straight on the back as it does the front. I don't know if you have access to a drill press, mine is just one of the little chinese peices of junk and the only modification I made to it is drilling a hole in the base just big enough for the awl to go through. Hope this helps and good luck Brandon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
