Members meg1517 Posted September 15, 2009 Members Report Posted September 15, 2009 Hello All I have another question about dying leather....I tooled some leather and them I oiled it with Neatsfoot oil. I let that dry and then I dyed the leather with Fiebings professional oil dye, let that dry and oiled the leather again with Neatsfoot oil. After the leather was dry, the color wasn't dark enough so I dyed it again.....so here is my question: Do I need to apply another coat of Neatsfoot Oil to seal the fibers again or is it ok to just finish it with Bagkote. I just don't want any of the dye to rub off. Thanks so much Meg Quote
Moderator Art Posted September 15, 2009 Moderator Report Posted September 15, 2009 Hi Meg, You have to get all the leftover dye off by rubbing/buffing before sealing. Rub with a dry soft cloth or I do mine with a 10 inch loose wheel at 3600 rpm, you have to be gentle if you do it that way and don't stay in any one place, it is just faster, not anything you can't accomplish by hand. Bag-Kote will give you a subdued finish that I prefer, and Tan-Kote will give a little more gloss, you probably have enough neatsfoot on board after 2 applications, just finish with the top coat. Art Hello All I have another question about dying leather....I tooled some leather and them I oiled it with Neatsfoot oil. I let that dry and then I dyed the leather with Fiebings professional oil dye, let that dry and oiled the leather again with Neatsfoot oil. After the leather was dry, the color wasn't dark enough so I dyed it again.....so here is my question: Do I need to apply another coat of Neatsfoot Oil to seal the fibers again or is it ok to just finish it with Bagkote. I just don't want any of the dye to rub off. Thanks so much Meg Quote For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!
Members meg1517 Posted September 16, 2009 Author Members Report Posted September 16, 2009 Hi Meg, You have to get all the leftover dye off by rubbing/buffing before sealing. Rub with a dry soft cloth or I do mine with a 10 inch loose wheel at 3600 rpm, you have to be gentle if you do it that way and don't stay in any one place, it is just faster, not anything you can't accomplish by hand. Bag-Kote will give you a subdued finish that I prefer, and Tan-Kote will give a little more gloss, you probably have enough neatsfoot on board after 2 applications, just finish with the top coat. Art Hi Art Thanks so much for the response that's what I'll do. Meg Quote
TimKleffner Posted September 16, 2009 Report Posted September 16, 2009 Meg What kind of project did you do? I have always dyed first then oiled. Rub the leather gently . If you tool the leather, anything more than gently oiling with a piece of sheepskin WILL cause your tooling to be pushed down. I found out the hard way. I personally would never use a buffing wheel or any kind of machinery on any part of my piece other than the edges. Good luck Happy tooling Tim Quote It's hard to fail, but worse never to have tried to succeed.Theodore Roosevelt
Members meg1517 Posted September 16, 2009 Author Members Report Posted September 16, 2009 Hi Tim I am hand tooling leather to be installed on a bedroom wall. The overall piece when stitched together will be 12' x 8'. We are using a 5/6 oz leather and we do seem to have a problem getting our tooling to 'pop' more. I was thinking that maybe our cuts were not deep enough. Maybe we are oiling it to much or to rough....we'll see. I'll have to experiment more. I am pretty new to tooling, but I have to say this forum has been a GODSEND! Thanks Meg Meg What kind of project did you do? I have always dyed first then oiled. Rub the leather gently . If you tool the leather, anything more than gently oiling with a piece of sheepskin WILL cause your tooling to be pushed down. I found out the hard way. I personally would never use a buffing wheel or any kind of machinery on any part of my piece other than the edges. Good luck Happy tooling Tim Quote
TimKleffner Posted September 16, 2009 Report Posted September 16, 2009 Meg If your tooling on 5-6 and your not getting your tooling to 'pop' , it could be the thinness of the leather. 5/6 is hard to 'make pop'. If you have a piece of 8/9 ... you can make that thing 'jump out'. you work the leather a little harder with out poking thru. I don't get to tool on it often, but ... 12oz .....ohhh my... aaahhh ... What type of tooling do you do? I tool Sheridan style , with undercut and high pitch bevelers. DON'T rub too hard while oiling or lacquering [finishing] you can push down your tooling Have fun Happy tooling Tim Quote It's hard to fail, but worse never to have tried to succeed.Theodore Roosevelt
Members Jimbob Posted April 17, 2012 Members Report Posted April 17, 2012 Hi Tim I am hand tooling leather to be installed on a bedroom wall. The overall piece when stitched together will be 12' x 8'. We are using a 5/6 oz leather and we do seem to have a problem getting our tooling to 'pop' more. I was thinking that maybe our cuts were not deep enough. Maybe we are oiling it to much or to rough....we'll see. I'll have to experiment more. I am pretty new to tooling, but I have to say this forum has been a GODSEND! Thanks Meg Late quote I carve seats and use 3-4 oz and it "POP's" out big time!! Need good leather and sharp knife !! Greetings James Quote http://www.elfwood.com/~alien883 First it is just leather....then it is what-ever I can dream off...
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