Dye, buff, finish... problem?

[gringobill]

I am new to leather working (about 9 days so far), and am having good luck with both a sheath and pancake holster design. I have read a lot on here, but I'm still having issues. First my process, then my problem...

After wet molding the holster and letting it dry overnight, I do a light Deglazing of the surface. Then I dye using Fiebing's USMC Black applied with sheepwool. I do basically two thorough coats in one sitting and let it dry. Then I buff the heck out of it. I do a light application of a leather lotion that I like (it's not any kind of finishing product), let it dry, and buff the heck out of it again. At this point the holster is basically looking how I like it. But then I apply a thin coat of Leather Balm with Atom Wax for a finishing coat, let that dry, and buff the heck out of it. At this point I notice a few spots where the color seems to be coming out, fading. It's mostly on high surfaces, areas that were probably touched/handled. Now, I am almost positive that this fading was not present before the Atom Wax. It happened with the sheath first, so I was almost expecting it with the holster I did later. Any suggestions?

Both the holster and the sheath look 95% awesome, aside from the faded areas. Now, when I wet molded the holster, I used a drop or two of soap to clean the surfaces, then I also Deglazed before dyeing. I always wear gloves when handling the leather from that point forward. I really doubt this is an issue of my hand oils or something being on the leather that is preventing the dye from taking. Again, any information or ideas would be awesome.

If I can get this sorted out, I'll post pics of my two new creations!

Hey there, you may have your problem straightened out by now......?

Dyeing something solid black is a challenge to begin with, I have seen a lot of discussion about it. It seems like some people may put on a base coat of a different color first before applying the black. I believe I have read that some of the holster manufacturers like Bianchi and Galco my dip their holsters rather than applying the dye by hand. That's a big commitment and expense if you are not a manufacturere!

I think cleaning with oxalic acid first is a good idea, also using a little oil to replace the oils in the leather removed by all the handling, water, and the bleaching.

Good luck!

Bill

[EMGBass]

I do appreciate all the responses regarding my problem! It has been somewhat handled. After more experimentation it seems the problem revolves around the spirit-based USMC Black dye. I had the same issues with three different pieces of hide. (Granted, they were all from Tandy.) When I switched to the Black Pro Oil dye, it seemed to correct the problem, although it is a much more matte finish than the USMC Black.

The pieces that I had finished with USMC seemed to work with a finish of Tan Kote. Oddly enough, the Pro Oil Black looked best with the Leather Balm that was giving me problems with the USMC.

Again, I'm very new to this, so some experimentation was definitely in order. I'm working on my third piece currently. The 1st project was a sheath for a Ka-Bar, the 2nd was the pancake holster for a J-Frame that I posted pics of (above), and this new project is kicking my butt!

It's a field holster for a S&W Trail Boss (3" .44 mag). I'm having to work out the holster design, the welt, the belt tunnel, and the thumb break! Oh, and it's going to be a cross-draw. Certainly much more difficult than my first two projects. I think I've got the pattern phase wrapped up, and it's time to start cutting leather and turning these ideas into something tangible.

[UncleGeorge]

I do appreciate all the responses regarding my problem! It has been somewhat handled. After more experimentation it seems the problem revolves around the spirit-based USMC Black dye. I had the same issues with three different pieces of hide. (Granted, they were all from Tandy.) When I switched to the Black Pro Oil dye, it seemed to correct the problem, although it is a much more matte finish than the USMC Black.

The pieces that I had finished with USMC seemed to work with a finish of Tan Kote. Oddly enough, the Pro Oil Black looked best with the Leather Balm that was giving me problems with the USMC.

Again, I'm very new to this, so some experimentation was definitely in order. I'm working on my third piece currently. The 1st project was a sheath for a Ka-Bar, the 2nd was the pancake holster for a J-Frame that I posted pics of (above), and this new project is kicking my butt!

It's a field holster for a S&W Trail Boss (3" .44 mag). I'm having to work out the holster design, the welt, the belt tunnel, and the thumb break! Oh, and it's going to be a cross-draw. Certainly much more difficult than my first two projects. I think I've got the pattern phase wrapped up, and it's time to start cutting leather and turning these ideas into something tangible.

Sounds like you found the same solution I did. Had the exact little problem using USMC Black. The problem shows up wherever I push hard on the leather to wet mold. Closes up the grain and makes it hard for the dye to absorb. Changin' to Pro Oil Black did the trick as it absorbs much better and leaves less dried residue. I vat dye my holsters and that helps too. The wet molding dries out the leather and leaves it thirsty for oil and when the oil dye is applied it sucks it up...takin' a drank. My words describin' what Fiebing told me.

[Luke Hatley]

ONLY PRO DYE FOR ME..........BLACK AND THE BROWNS...........

[EMGBass]

Well, here are the projects thus far...

First was the KaBar sheath, then the J-frame pancake holster, then the .44 mag field holster.

Still learning a lot, but I'm loving it. I'm currently working on a 1911 belt-slide design. I'll post pics when it's done.

Thanks everyone, for all the help!