Getting bead lines straight

[Sal]

I have tried everthing I can think of to get a nice clean, STRAIGHT bead line--cutting a line and following it with a wing divider,using a stich groover, etc, but it looks horrible after I add the second line as I can't get the second line to follow the first. I have a very smooth edge to follow so the first line looks great but I can't get the bead to be an even width. Very frustrating! As always, you experienced craftsmen are awesome.

[Rawhide]

Sal are you using a bead blade? If so, i would use a thick straight edge like a quilter's rule. This will give the blade something to "ride" on as you cut. Also cut the bead in multiple passes, don't try to get the bead with the first pass.

If you don't have a bead blade, use the same quilter's rule to cut the first line, then line the rule up on your cut line the width you want and cut the second parallel line. Then use your modeler to round over the edge of the bead.

[Sal]

Sal are you using a bead blade? If so, i would use a thick straight edge like a quilter's rule. This will give the blade something to "ride" on as you cut. Also cut the bead in multiple passes, don't try to get the bead with the first pass.

If you don't have a bead blade, use the same quilter's rule to cut the first line, then line the rule up on your cut line the width you want and cut the second parallel line. Then use your modeler to round over the edge of the bead.

Yes, I do have a bead blade. I neglected to add that straight lines are no problem, it's the curved ones that I can't get to look good. Any advice about doing curves?

I appreciate you help.

[gtwister09]

Sal,

As Marlon mentioned there are beader blades and there are beading tools (these can be single or multiple beads). It sounds as if you are using a swivel knife. There are several ways to attack this problem. If you are having a difficult time following a line from a pair of dividers then here's a couple of suggestions. Have you used your finger on the side for a guide to set the distance (like using your fingers on the side of a circular saw to set distance)? If that doesn't work then you could use other aids like the Craftool Border tool for swivel knives. Of course if you use other straight edges with a single blade you have to make sure that knife blade doesn't undercut.

Regards,

Ben

[hidepounder]

You're experiencing a problem that we all have. I agree with everything Marlon and Ben said. Sometimes I think we rely too hard on utilizing a mechnical means of keeping things staight and even in tight areas. Having been through what you are describing I want to offer one last idea to contemplate. Because it is so difficult to cut around a corner utilizing a guide, you might want to give it a shot freehand. Try practicing a few times on scrap leather and when you start to feel comfortable then give it a try on your next project. Cut lightly on your first pass if that's more comfotable.

Hope this helps....

Bobby

[gtwister09]

I personally don't use the border tools. Using the border tools on curves is almost impossible....way to difficult at least to me. However others use them quite well.

Bob's comment on light cuts first may be the best advice so far...

Regards,

Ben

[Sal]

You're experiencing a problem that we all have. I agree with everything Marlon and Ben said. Sometimes I think we rely too hard on utilizing a mechnical means of keeping things staight and even in tight areas. Having been through what you are describing I want to offer one last idea to contemplate. Because it is so difficult to cut around a corner utilizing a guide, you might want to give it a shot freehand. Try practicing a few times on scrap leather and when you start to feel comfortable then give it a try on your next project. Cut lightly on your first pass if that's more comfotable.

Hope this helps....

Bobby

Thank you everyone. I have concluded that I just need to practice "freehand" more. Using a guide is so stress-free, but cutting boarder lines free-hand makes me very nervous. Thanks again.

[hidepounder]

Sal,

I cut almost all of my borders freehand. I NEVER use a guide to cut with. I learned a long timne ago that my making a deep mark witha pair of dividers and then using a very wide blade (5/8" or 3/4") I could lay the blade pretty flat as I cut and I got a very straight line. When I get to a sharp curve I switch to a 1/4" angled blade until I camre to a straight stretch again. I have not used beader blades much....mostly I use hand beaders...and they are very difficult to use when sharp curves are involved. So much so that I probably would elect not to us eone at all in those circumstances. What Ben was describing about letting a finger or two hang off the edge of teh leather and using them as a guide is a very good tip and a good habit to get into. I do that a lot.

Hope this helps....

Bobby

[steveh]

When I use a beader blade, I scribe a line from edge with dividers, straight run or a curve, then I single cut a line with a standard swivel knife blade, then I use the beader blade following the original single cut as a track, This works good for me.

Steve

[Go2Tex]

I do the same as above except that I use a drafting compass with a relatively soft lead to make my mark and a round tip on the other end that rides quite nicely on the edge of the leather. I use it on all borders to scribe my first line then follow it as closely as possible with my swivel knife, using my fingers on the edge of the leather as a guide. Going around curves is always a challenge but practice helps. I use Barry King's push beader to make the second mark, then cut it and continue working the bead with the beader tool until it is nice and round. It also works well to clean up your bead if your tooling messes it up a bit. Tilt the tool backwards to go around tight curves until the bead is established and you can begin to work the beader around the curve. Remember, haste makes waste.