Dye making leather stiff

[CWizard]

Hello. I am new to the forum. I haven't done any leather work in quite a few years. I tried selling holsters and only sold one. I ended up making items for friends. I was looking at some custom leather shops because I was looking for a holster for a Colt Diamondback which has been out of production for many years. The prices were out of sight so I was thinking of making my own again. I have been reading the posts and didn't see an answer to my question. I was dying holsters after I sewed them because the dye, especially black dye, made the leather so stiff. Even applying neetsfoot didn't do much to bring back any flexibility. From reading, oil dyes don't make the leather as stiff, but I feel I must be missing a step. My items have been servieable, but could be better.

[Art]

Sometimes hides just dry out a little (or a lot). For whatever reason, they need to be oiled and set aside for a few days, then maybe even repeat the process if necessary. If you start with a dry hide and then use spirit (oil dye is a spirit dye not an oil dye) or water based dyes, the uptake will be good, but after drying the hide will be dryer. I use neatsfoot, #1 Saddle Oil, Montana Pitchblend Oil (not the paste) or Pecards. They all have seemed to work if allowed to work their way into the hide.

Art

Hello. I am new to the forum. I haven't done any leather work in quite a few years. I tried selling holsters and only sold one. I ended up making items for friends. I was looking at some custom leather shops because I was looking for a holster for a Colt Diamondback which has been out of production for many years. The prices were out of sight so I was thinking of making my own again. I have been reading the posts and didn't see an answer to my question. I was dying holsters after I sewed them because the dye, especially black dye, made the leather so stiff. Even applying neetsfoot didn't do much to bring back any flexibility. From reading, oil dyes don't make the leather as stiff, but I feel I must be missing a step. My items have been servieable, but could be better.

[CWizard]

Sometimes hides just dry out a little (or a lot). For whatever reason, they need to be oiled and set aside for a few days, then maybe even repeat the process if necessary. If you start with a dry hide and then use spirit (oil dye is a spirit dye not an oil dye) or water based dyes, the uptake will be good, but after drying the hide will be dryer. I use neatsfoot, #1 Saddle Oil, Montana Pitchblend Oil (not the paste) or Pecards. They all have seemed to work if allowed to work their way into the hide.

Art

So, you use the pils before and after dying? Do you deglaze the leather before oiling? Thanks

[Art]

oil only if hide needs it 2 days before dying. Deglaze right before dying.

Art

So, you use the pils before and after dying? Do you deglaze the leather before oiling? Thanks

[MADMAX22]

Art do you find the finish comes out better in your opinion if you oil, deglaze, then dye? I have allways deglazed, dyed then oiled but am open to suggestions on other ways to do it.

[Art]

Hi Max,

Usually, I don't oil before only after dyeing, but on very dry leather I oil before then let it sit for a few days, then deglaze and dye.

Art

Art do you find the finish comes out better in your opinion if you oil, deglaze, then dye? I have allways deglazed, dyed then oiled but am open to suggestions on other ways to do it.

[Lobo]

I believe that the alcohol-based (spirit) dyes do result in a more rigid piece, which many view as a positivie outcome. I do my dying by immersing the finished holster into the dye, and there is a noticeable difference in the piece after the dye has set and dried.

I use neatsfoot oil on each piece, applied after the dye has set completely, and allowed to settle into the leather fibers for about 24 hours before final finish applications are applied. In my opinion, this provides two benefits: 1. long-term protection against moisture infiltration (water-resistant, not water-proof), and 2. a degree of flexibility in the finished holster to resist cracking.

Neatsfoot oil can be overdone quite easily. I use one application and only one, then all surfaces are sealed with an acrylic sealant.