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Rough Side Out Holsters

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Hey guys!!

This is my first post and I have to say that this website is such an incredible resource!!

I recently made my second holster ever. I chose a rough side out IWB modeled after Bruce Nelson's Summer Special.

I have a few quetsions:

1) I am concerned that if I dye the leather it will rub off on my clothes. Should I just leave it un-dyed?? Is there any way to make sure that it doesn't bleed??

2) What is the best way to seal rough side out holsters?? I want to keep moisture from migrating through the leather to my carry weapon.

I really appreciate any input. Keep up the good work!!

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Hey guys!!

This is my first post and I have to say that this website is such an incredible resource!!

I recently made my second holster ever. I chose a rough side out IWB modeled after Bruce Nelson's Summer Special.

I have a few quetsions:

1) I am concerned that if I dye the leather it will rub off on my clothes. Should I just leave it un-dyed?? Is there any way to make sure that it doesn't bleed??

2) What is the best way to seal rough side out holsters?? I want to keep moisture from migrating through the leather to my carry weapon.

I really appreciate any input. Keep up the good work!!

Neatsfoot oil will add a nice, rich light tan color to you natural leather that will get richer with a little time spent in the sun. It also repels moisture. If you don't over do it, it shouldn't bleed off on your clothing at all, once it had penetrated the leather.

Oil or water based dyes are going to bleed on rough out leather to some extent.

-Tac

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I've always thought that rough out IWB and Pocket holsters were a good advertising gimic to allow makers to use up leather that had defects on the grain side and not have to go through the finishing steps. What little friction is provided is soon lost due to burnishing from the method of carry. A good holster design is what provides abscense of shifting.

That being said you can seal, to some degree, the flesh side with Leather Sheen however no matter what, if it is dyed and you sweat on it, you may get some bleed on your clothes. If you like black use vinegaroon to color. It has nothing to bleed out.

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For IWB carry I recommend a natural, undyed, finish. Even the best dyes will transfer somewhat when enough temperature and moisture are applied for an extended time (think hot days and perspiration, and a clean white dress shirt).

Very light application of neatsfoot oil can provide lasting protection and a degree of flexibility to resist cracking. Followed by a thorough saturation coating of acrylic sealant, you will have a product that will stand up to years of use.

Please do not store your handgun in a leather holster for an extended period. All leather articles will attract and retain moisture to some degree. Get into the habit of removing the handgun after each day's use, wipe it down with an oily rag or silicone-treated cloth. The holster should be left in an area with good air-flow to permit any residual moisture to evaporate away.

Just a little advice from a guy who has carried a sidearm almost every day since 1968, and has made a few thousand holsters.

Best regards.

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For IWB carry I recommend a natural, undyed, finish. Even the best dyes will transfer somewhat when enough temperature and moisture are applied for an extended time (think hot days and perspiration, and a clean white dress shirt).

Very light application of neatsfoot oil can provide lasting protection and a degree of flexibility to resist cracking. Followed by a thorough saturation coating of acrylic sealant, you will have a product that will stand up to years of use.

Please do not store your handgun in a leather holster for an extended period. All leather articles will attract and retain moisture to some degree. Get into the habit of removing the handgun after each day's use, wipe it down with an oily rag or silicone-treated cloth. The holster should be left in an area with good air-flow to permit any residual moisture to evaporate away.

Just a little advice from a guy who has carried a sidearm almost every day since 1968, and has made a few thousand holsters.

Best regards.

Thank you for this info...I am going to try the neatsfoot and sealer...

Your work looks amazing.

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I've read a lot of people saying that they get dye transfer but I've never once had an issue... Not with the water soluble dyes or the oil based Fiebings products. I make sure to buff the hell out of the leather after the dye has dried for at least 24 hours and then seal it with an acrylic of some kind and I also use a light top coat of neutral shoe polish.

I carry a gun with me every day every waking hour and only in the holsters I've made. I sweat on them, I've gotten them wet, I've spilled hot coffee on them, soda, food, you name it, I've probably managed to drop it, spill it or otherwise expose my holsters to it. Short of gas or some other such solvent I've never had an issue.

So are people just not sealing their leather and having issues with rub off?

Edit:

I mean absolutely no offense! There are gentlemen on this forum who have carried firearms and been doing leather work far longer than myself and I have nothing but the utmost respect for them and their work! I am just honestly confused and dumfounded by the seeming constant issues others have had. I'll admit though that I've never tried using black dye!

Edited by UberSquid

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For IWB carry I recommend a natural, undyed, finish. Even the best dyes will transfer somewhat when enough temperature and moisture are applied for an extended time (think hot days and perspiration, and a clean white dress shirt).

Very light application of neatsfoot oil can provide lasting protection and a degree of flexibility to resist cracking. Followed by a thorough saturation coating of acrylic sealant, you will have a product that will stand up to years of use.

Please do not store your handgun in a leather holster for an extended period. All leather articles will attract and retain moisture to some degree. Get into the habit of removing the handgun after each day's use, wipe it down with an oily rag or silicone-treated cloth. The holster should be left in an area with good air-flow to permit any residual moisture to evaporate away.

Just a little advice from a guy who has carried a sidearm almost every day since 1968, and has made a few thousand holsters.

Best regards.

Tac; FWIW from the old grump; listen to what Ray (Lobo Gunleather) has to say. I've carried a handgun for about as long as Ray has, as a LEO and as a private guy with a CCW permit. EVERY holster I ever carried on duty had rub-off for a month or so after issue. When I went to plain clothes, I went to an Aker paddle holster --in 'natural' finish to preclude this. (We were required to carry Dept. Issue equipment, or I'd have used one of my own) Black is the worst at rub-off, just by the nature of black dyes, but the darker the color, the more rub-off appears, even in my own pieces. I'm just a dinky little shop doing custom only work, and don't get into anywhere near the quantities that Ray does, but have been at it almost as long as he. In my experience, even the best(?) big manufacturers have the problem with dye rub-off. JMHO Mike

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i made a couple of rough outs ( western style though not modern) and used sealer on them after dying (resolene),i was more than happy with the results.

i made 1 without dying it too so no need to seal it,was happy with it. the resolened ones got the fluffyness back after a few weeks of use.

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I've been using Tan Kote thinned 50/50, with good results. No dye.

post-20669-041586400 1341146068_thumb.jp

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I am making a rough out saddle I dyed dark.

What kind of sealers do you recommend?

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