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ginny

Adler 30-1 Threading Problem

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I am having the same problem (plus others). I was thinking it was timing at first. Still could be the problem, but it's just not hooking the top thread. I've tried several needles, and moved the needle as far to the right as it will go. Operation manual says to use "needle system 332 L" and "left-torsion" thread???? Oh, the manual is available still in PDF on Adler's web site. Adler 30. And shoesystemsplus has a .BMP file of the exploded view with part numbers. I can email these to anyone that needs them.

Anyway, the timing is adjusted by two screws. Don't disassemble anything if you don't absolutely need to. A fella at a shoe repair shop showed the screws to me on his 30-1, and how to adjust the timing, although I still might not have it right.

If you're not familiar with setting up a sewing machine in general (or patcher in this case), it will eliminate a LOT of frustration to take it to an expert. Let them know what you plan to stitch, and he/she can have it set up exactly how you need it. The info you gain from talking to someone that's in the business can completely outweigh the cost of a repair or adjustment. I design and fabricate lots of things, but trust me on this one! There's a reason even engineers say "runs like a sewing machine!" when they're happy with some type of machinery.

On mine the take-up lever cuts the thread, the top thread tension seems way too high (even with the adjusting nut barely holding on), and the bobbin shuttle rarely hooks the thread off the needle. So I'll be taking mine in next week. I'll post back with the results and hopefully a report on what was adjusted.

I can't wait to actually stitch with it. It's been a great hole puncher so far.

My presser foot spring has about the same arc. And even at the lightest setting, it makes a pair of tracks along the stitch line (line of holes thus far). However, it doesn't feel like too much pressure, just to aggressive a foot. I think I'll just machine a new foot for working with the finished side of leather.

If anyone with a nicely running 30-1 could please post a picture or two showing their timing, I'm sure lots of us would appreciate it.

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One thing to check is the spring on the needlebar,lower the bar all the way down & look underneath the head casting where it comes out & you'll see a flat spot there w/a flat spring on it,this spring is supposed to be seated against the needlebar & pinches the thread preventing it from being pushed backwards when the needle goes in the leather.

This spring doesn't cost alot either,the hardest part is getting the pin out of the top of the needlebar to change it.

MikTigger,you say your thread breaks @ the t/u lever,1st what size thread are you using?Is there any grooves worn in it?

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Sewmun, the thread I'm using is "Rice's 1oz nylon Machine Twist D/E". This is what was with the machine when I got it. I've also tried "Coats Extra Strong, Dual Duty Plus, Button Craft" (just because I had several colors). And I tried some heavy thread that came in a hand sewing awl ("The Speedy Stitcher"), but I was holding the spool in one hand rather than feeding it through it's proper course. Thinking the top thread tensioner was already tight on the smaller thread.

Although I've sewn fabrics on a home model (Singer 413 Stylist, 252 Fashion Mate, and a Husqvarna 118(?)) I'm new to all this, so bear with me. I don't see any other indication of thread size on the spools I have, but I noticed on this forum, there are designations with 3-digit sizing. I haven't done that research yet, so I don't know what else I can say there.

The needles I have are Weltmarke 332 100/6 (on the package) and on the shank is imprinted Lammertz 160. It is a large round needle, with only a very slight scallop above the eye. In the machine when I got it was a GB 120. A very cool needle, as it has a twist to the flattened point which makes my (hand) stitches lay all in the same direction. It is smaller than the 332, and has a more defined scallop above the eye.

Ginny, I took my presser foot leaf spring off and from a flat surface, it measures 5/16" to the top, 3/16" to the underside. (eyeing it, I couldn't find my calipers) At it's lightest setting, it still leaves marks on the 4-5oz veg tan leather, though there is hardly any pressure. When I take mine to the local guy here, I'll see what he says about how it feels. You said you were going to Charleston, SC? I'm in Columbia. The guy I'll be taking mine to knows these machines well. Tommy Lightner (sp?).

Many thanks everyone for the replies! I am encouraged by all of what I've seen on this forum. My son is getting more interested as well. Oh, the projects we've thought up!

Mik

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Hawgman,

I have original Adler bobbin winders for $99.00 plus shipping. what color is your machine?

shoepatcher

<br />This post has been extremly informative.  Great job.<br />I have an Adler 30-1 also and am looking for a bobbin winder.<br />Anyone have a clue where to find this little jewel.<br />I looked on the site that Trox suggested but my German is a little rusty.<br />
<br /><br /><br />

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Ok Tor I am waiting with much anticipation. Sounds like I need to come to Norway to look for some bargins. What a trip that would be.

Hawgman!

25 Nov 10.08 Norway Time

I`m on my way to the post office! I send it as a letter free of charge. (Cost only 6 USD)

Tor

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Hawgman!

25 Nov 10.08 Norway Time

I`m on my way to the post office! I send it as a letter free of charge. (Cost only 6 USD)

Tor

Shipped today as a express letter! 4 - 7 days! (12 USD)

Tor

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Here's a pic of how the shuttle driver should look when it's all the way clockwise.

You'll need to loosen the set screw underneath on the farside & turn the bolt to adjust then retinghten the screw.

Miktigger,I think your thread is correct size,do you have any idea how old it is?

Singer 29 Timing.bmp

Singer 29 Timing.bmp

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Ginny;

I just saw how you mistook my phrase "lowest position" for the stitch regulator as being based on the numbers on the bars! I meant physically lowest point, downward, which would be around number 5 on the bar.

With the pressor foot and needle up, carefully grab a-hold of the bottom of the foot and see how much wiggle there is forward and backward. If there is a fair amount of movement possible when you push and pull the foot forward/backward, the part that causes the stitches to advance is worn out. I can't give an exact amount of motion, but I would feel confident in saying that if that foot can be moved 1/8" or more, the drive mechanism is worn out. A machinist who bronze brazes may be able to reduce the slack, or, you may be able to buy replacement parts somewhere.

A person with a Singer 29K had the same problem with short stitch length. (So do I!) And other problems too. He wrote a really good article about rebuilding it, and included lots of pictures. It's posted on another site as a MS Word document. Here's a link:

http://needlebar.org/_main/restoration/Singer29K13.doc

It's a large file because of the pictures (4.2MB).

I hope other 29K (& Adler) users will find it helpful too.

Doug

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A person with a Singer 29K had the same problem with short stitchlength. (So do I!) And other problems too. He wrote a really goodarticle about rebuilding it, and included lots of pictures. It's postedon another site as a MS Word document.

I built up the feed motion crank lever lobe on an old 29K something I had, because its maximum stitch length was too short. I may be doing it again on the 1920's 29-4 I have now. I used a bronze welding rod and a propane torch, with a pinpoint nozzle, to get the steel lobe red hot. I added a thin layer of bronze around the worn out steel lobe, then worked it into shape with a file and emery cloth, for the closest fit that allowed it to rotate 360 degrees. I finished it off on a buffing wheel and when I installed it into the bottom of the head, I got 5 stitches per inch, in 12 oz of leather.

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Thanks Sewmun! Looks like I have stitches too.

I adjusted the timing according to the diagram you posted, and I have stitches now. The guy at the shoe repair place had shown me his timing method, but it was off. I have to hold the thread to the rear with a little tension, and I'm not getting the first few stitches to catch, but that's just on test pieces so far. I'll put a couple new pieces of leather in it and try it next.

I've tried new and old thread. However, since this last adjustment, it hasn't cut it. I did start one line where the needle stuck through the thread. Stuck the needle through my finger trying to pull it off. I suppose that's another good use for the tiny pieces of leather I refuse to toss.

The needle seems to be punching a massive hole for this little thread to be running though. I'm going to try a smaller needle also. Any idea what the maximum thread size for this machine is? I didn't see it in the manual, it just says "Match needle thread to material thickness and use left-torsion threads." And "The bobbin thread should be thinner or softer than the needle thread."

I'll try a few things and post again.

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MikTigger,

Have you checked how close the needle is to the shuttle?Do you know it's adjustable by using the screw above the screw that holds the needle in?You loosen it & it'll move left to right & it needs to be as close as you can get w/o touching,this allows you to adj f/different sizes of needles & thread comdos.

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Yes. I have it moved as close as possible. With the smaller 120 needle, I have it all the way to the right. It will stitch, and they're nice and tight and even once it does catch. But it's hard to get the top thread to pick up the bobbin thread. I think I just need to search through the advertisers here, and get some new needles and thread. If that doesn't make it reliably stitch, I'll take it to the local repair guy, and get him to set it up and have him show me some tips for different size applications. It'll have to wait until after Christmas at this point though. I'll probably start a new post with what the repair guy says.

Incidentally, once it started stiching, the foot doesn't put such deep marks in the leather. No idea why, as the thread runs between the two feet. I suppose it's just happier.

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Hi everyone at leatherwoker.net.

I just got an adler 30-1 with problems and got it working by reading this thread. Fantastic information. Thanks to you all.

-L.

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Hi a newby

I have a Adler 30-1 recent acquasition

am haveing a challenge w/ trying to move the thread to the middle of the work btm thread does not pull into the work

on a household machine I would increase the thread tension to accomplish

I may be missing thread tensioner?? I have not found a schematic that shows all the tensioner

The only tensioner I have is on the top beside the needle shaft

Any suggestions on where to find Schematic Any thoughts on this will be appreciated

Myles

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I know this have been posted a while ago but I do have the instruction (pretty basic) and parts plans ...very detailed english and french, if it could help I could scan them and post it... mine is an adler 30 1 1967, just had it a few days ago.

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Myles,you might need to loosen the bobbin tension alittle.Here's a threading diagram.

post-7185-0-23843500-1397217090_thumb.jp

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I know this thread is old but for a new to the trade/obsession it has been a gold mine.  I bought an Adler 30-1 on an auction and this thread has allowed me to get it working properly.  Thank you all for your expertise.

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You are welcome!

glenn

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