Singer model 66-1

[corkscrew]

I have access to a Singer model 66-1 sewing machine that has a 0.6 amp motor. Does anyone know if this will sew leather, and if so how thick?

Thanks, Corkscrewtom

[Wizcrafts]

I have access to a Singer model 66-1 sewing machine that has a 0.6 amp motor. Does anyone know if this will sew leather, and if so how thick?

Thanks, Corkscrewtom

You didn't say what kind of leather you want to sew! Do you mean garment or chap leather? These old Singer sewing machines will sew up to a 5/16 inch of soft leather, maximum. A .6 amp motor is way under-powered for most leather use, unless the material is very light weight and pliable. You'd be better off replacing the motor with one that is rated at 1 amp or more.

You will be limited to a #18 leatherpoint needle and #69 bonded nylon thread on a Class 66 Singer. You might get lucky and find some #20 needles with professional suppliers. These may allow you to use up to #92 thread.

While you might be able to sew a few belts on such a machine you won't be able to do any production with it. Belt leather is too dense for these home machines to endure. You will probably destroy the sewing machine after a while if you sew belting, bridle, or holster leather.

Once you reveal the type of leather you intend to sew, we can assist you with finding the best machine for that job. Most leather workers use compound feed walking foot machines with heavy duty thread tension and drive-train parts and large bobbins. Most leather capable walking foot machines will sew up to 3/8" of anything you can get under the pressor foot, with #138 bonded nylon thread. They come with either a clutch or servo motor, typically rated at about 1/2 horsepower (~400 to 500 watts). The motor on the Singer 66 is rated a 0.6 amps. 110volts x 0.6 amps = 66 watts @ under 1/10th hp. You do the math.

If you must use a Singer Class 66 machine you should buy a walking foot attachment for it. It is not the same as an industrial walking foot, but it will help to feed layers evenly when sewing vinyl or garment leather. It will also reduce your sewing capacity to about 1/4".

Edited December 28, 2009 by Wizcrafts

[corkscrew]

You didn't say what kind of leather you want to sew! Do you mean garment or chap leather? These old Singer sewing machines will sew up to a 5/16 inch of soft leather, maximum. A .6 amp motor is way under-powered for most leather use, unless the material is very light weight and pliable. You'd be better off replacing the motor with one that is rated at 1 amp or more.

You will be limited to a #18 leatherpoint needle and #69 bonded nylon thread on a Class 66 Singer. You might get lucky and find some #20 needles with professional suppliers. These may allow you to use up to #92 thread.

While you might be able to sew a few belts on such a machine you won't be able to do any production with it. Belt leather is too dense for these home machines to endure. You will probably destroy the sewing machine after a while if you sew belting, bridle, or holster leather.

Once you reveal the type of leather you intend to sew, we can assist you with finding the best machine for that job. Most leather workers use compound feed walking foot machines with heavy duty thread tension and drive-train parts and large bobbins. Most leather capable walking foot machines will sew up to 3/8" of anything you can get under the pressor foot, with #138 bonded nylon thread. They come with either a clutch or servo motor, typically rated at about 1/2 horsepower (~400 to 500 watts). The motor on the Singer 66 is rated a 0.6 amps. 110volts x 0.6 amps = 66 watts @ under 1/10th hp. You do the math.

If you must use a Singer Class 66 machine you should buy a walking foot attachment for it. It is not the same as an industrial walking foot, but it will help to feed layers evenly when sewing vinyl or garment leather. It will also reduce your sewing capacity to about 1/4".

Wizcraft,

Thanks for the info and feedback. I plan on sewing chaps, vests out of soft chap leather and then some tooling leather that is 3 to 6 oz. I figured this machine might be too small, light weiht to do what I wanted. My mother had it and it was her grandmothers.

Any recomendations? I've been looking online at ebay for some, and would like to keep it under $500 if possible.

Thanks again, CorkscrewTom

[Wizcrafts]

Tom;

If you can't afford more than $500, and only intend to sew chaps and light vegtan projects, up to 5/16" or so, just about any used walking foot machine will do. While you will find these machines all the time on eBay, that should be your last option. First contact the dealers who support and frequent this forum. Many of them stock used machines in that price range. They stand behind the machines they sell and will help you through the learning process. EBay sellers won't usually want to be bothered with questions after you buy their machine.

Avoid bottom feeders, even if they are cheap. Chap and garment leather is tacky and will drag against the pressor foot, causing the layers to get misaligned. Go for a walking foot, compound feed machine if possible. I learned this the hard way.

Alternately, if you end up with a bottom feed only machine, buy a roller foot for it. Some are sold as a set, with a roller foot, single row feed dog and custom cover plate. Others look like a regular pressor foot, but have rollers in the front and back.

Another thing to watch for is the motor. Industrial machines use a large motor that is fastened to the underside of the table, in which the machine sits. There are two types of motor in common use: clutch and servo. The motor has a removable, interchangeable pulley on the right end. A narrow v-belt connects from that little pulley to the larger pulley molded into the flywheel on the back of the machine head.

A clutch motor is always on when the power switch is on, costing you money even when you aren't actively sewing. You control the speed below maximum by feathering the clutch with a large foot pedal mounted on a cross-member on the bottom front of the machine. Changing the motor pulley to a small size (circa 2") helps with slow speed control, but slows the top speed as well. When sewing leather speed is not your friend.

A servo motor does nothing when switched on, until you press down on the foot pedal. It acts like a home sewing motor, but with much more torque. No current is drawn unless you are actively sewing and they are very easy to control by foot position. Most new machines are now equipped with servo motors.

A new leather capable sewing machine could set you back up to $2000. But, Ryan O. Neel was selling a "Neels" flatbed, heavy duty, customized walking foot machine for just under $1000, a while back. Look up Neel's Saddlery in the index.

Another good source of leather sewing machines is Bob Kovar, at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. I get stuff from him because I am fairly close to Ohio. His number is 866-362-7397

[corkscrew]

Tom;

If you can't afford more than $500, and only intend to sew chaps and light vegtan projects, up to 5/16" or so, just about any used walking foot machine will do. While you will find these machines all the time on eBay, that should be your last option. First contact the dealers who support and frequent this forum. Many of them stock used machines in that price range. They stand behind the machines they sell and will help you through the learning process. EBay sellers won't usually want to be bothered with questions after you buy their machine.

Avoid bottom feeders, even if they are cheap. Chap and garment leather is tacky and will drag against the pressor foot, causing the layers to get misaligned. Go for a walking foot, compound feed machine if possible. I learned this the hard way.

Alternately, if you end up with a bottom feed only machine, buy a roller foot for it. Some are sold as a set, with a roller foot, single row feed dog and custom cover plate. Others look like a regular pressor foot, but have rollers in the front and back.

Another thing to watch for is the motor. Industrial machines use a large motor that is fastened to the underside of the table, in which the machine sits. There are two types of motor in common use: clutch and servo. The motor has a removable, interchangeable pulley on the right end. A narrow v-belt connects from that little pulley to the larger pulley molded into the flywheel on the back of the machine head.

A clutch motor is always on when the power switch is on, costing you money even when you aren't actively sewing. You control the speed below maximum by feathering the clutch with a large foot pedal mounted on a cross-member on the bottom front of the machine. Changing the motor pulley to a small size (circa 2") helps with slow speed control, but slows the top speed as well. When sewing leather speed is not your friend.

A servo motor does nothing when switched on, until you press down on the foot pedal. It acts like a home sewing motor, but with much more torque. No current is drawn unless you are actively sewing and they are very easy to control by foot position. Most new machines are now equipped with servo motors.

A new leather capable sewing machine could set you back up to $2000. But, Ryan O. Neel was selling a "Neels" flatbed, heavy duty, customized walking foot machine for just under $1000, a while back. Look up Neel's Saddlery in the index.

Another good source of leather sewing machines is Bob Kovar, at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines. I get stuff from him because I am fairly close to Ohio. His number is 866-362-7397

Thanks a bunch Wizcrafts, I'll check those places out and see what I can find. I appreciate the info on what to look for in purchasing a machine.

Take care and happy new year, Tom