Rein Rounders

[DJ1935]

There was a post here some time back about Rein Rounders but it seems to have disapeared. Rounders seem to be an extinct species here in New Zealand, I have never seen one, even in a Museum. The only new ones I have found are the Heritage ones through Weavers. Having never set my paws on one and it is difficult to judge quality by looking at a book page can someone please give me their two cents worth on them. I have posted a Wanted for an old Osborne Rounder elsewhere, do Osborne still make them?.

Thank you

DJ

[Leatherpownder]

Check with the Hansen string cutter page

[dirtclod]

DJ i bet you have one made cheaper than you can buy and have it mailed to you. I'll take some pictures of mine and send to you if you want. Theirs not to much to one.

John

[DJ1935]

Hi John

You were right with your advice. After much searching to no avail, my Husband tired of the constant muttering about Rein Rounders set to and made one. This is the Mother of all Rein Rounders! The holes start at 3/4" and descend in 1/32"s. It took about a week to make, most of it taken up with polishing the holes. It bolts to the end of my bench and initial "test drives" have proved it to be most functional. The cost in materials was minimal and the cost of taking the "Boss" to lunch was a lot less than getting a Rounder freighted here.

[amuckart]

Sorry if this is a daft question, but how is this tool used? Do you start with square straps and compress them round?

[Luke Hatley]

FOR ME I USE AN EDGER ON ALL THE CORNERS, THEN WET THE LEATHER AND THEN START PULLING THE LEATHER THRU THE HOLES IN THE ROUNDER. START WITH THE LARGER HOLES AND GO DOWN TO THE SMALLER ONES.

[dirtclod]

DJ, your husband did a fine job on the rounder !! I'm sure you will put it to good use.

John

[DJ1935]

Thank you John. Al, there's no such thing as a daft question. What I did was folded a strap of wet 1" bridle leather lengthwise. Sewed it on the trusty old #6 Pearson with the round rein attatchment on (this cuts a grove top and bottom and sets the stitches down into the leather). After stitching take off the edges with a #3 edger and throughly soap the leather. Then placing the strap in the rounder where it fits comfortably set to and pull it back and forth, gradually working down the holes until you have a nicely polished round piece of leather in which you cannot see the stitching. You end up with a strong piece of leather AND you get an upper body work out as well!

DJ

[Leatherpownder]

Hi John

You were right with your advice. After much searching to no avail, my Husband tired of the constant muttering about Rein Rounders set to and made one. This is the Mother of all Rein Rounders! The holes start at 3/4" and descend in 1/32"s. It took about a week to make, most of it taken up with polishing the holes. It bolts to the end of my bench and initial "test drives" have proved it to be most functional. The cost in materials was minimal and the cost of taking the "Boss" to lunch was a lot less than getting a Rounder freighted here.

Nice piece of toolage!

[amuckart]

Thank you John. Al, there's no such thing as a daft question. What I did was folded a strap of wet 1" bridle leather lengthwise. Sewed it on the trusty old #6 Pearson with the round rein attatchment on (this cuts a grove top and bottom and sets the stitches down into the leather). After stitching take off the edges with a #3 edger and throughly soap the leather. Then placing the strap in the rounder where it fits comfortably set to and pull it back and forth, gradually working down the holes until you have a nicely polished round piece of leather in which you cannot see the stitching. You end up with a strong piece of leather AND you get an upper body work out as well!

DJ

Thanks DJ, I appreciate the explanation.

[DuncanSinclair]

The holes start at 3/4" and descend in 1/32"s. It took about a week to make, most of it taken up with polishing the holes. It bolts to the end of my bench and initial "test drives" have proved it to be most functional. The cost in materials was minimal and the cost of taking the "Boss" to lunch was a lot less than getting a Rounder freighted here.

Has anyone tried making one of these out of hardwood? Success or failure? I have more hardwood that steel in my shop. Besides, how was this done before steel and Iron was widley available?

[Emmet]

Has anyone tried making one of these out of hardwood? Success or failure? I have more hardwood that steel in my shop. Besides, how was this done before steel and Iron was widley available?

While I haven't done it my self it has been how some people have done it in the past. I think its even mentioned in one of the Stohlman books

[dirtclod]

I made one out of wood it worked ok but a steel one is LOTS better.

[shtoink]

I made one out of wood it worked ok but a steel one is LOTS better.

This may be due to the type of wood being used. If you went with a very dense, tight grained wood like a Desert Ironwood, Lignum Vitae, or even Cocobolo, you'd be able to get near metal-like strength and also be able to give it a very smooth finish. I'd stay away from an open grain wood similar to Oak, Mahogany, or Walnut. The grain is to rough and may end up damaging the leather by scraping it rather than polish it.

You'd need to find some way to reinforce the center section with either a metal brace or another chunk of wood screwed into the outer most top and bottom. The addition of some guides to keep the top half aligned with the bottom half will keep it from flexing or sliding while pulling the leather through the holes, too. The idea is to overbuild it a little and reinforce the more flexible areas to keep it as rigid as possible. Depending on which species of wood you go with, there may not be much of a cost savings. It also depends on tools available to you. Some of you might be better setup for working with metal, some wood, and some have it all covered. I have a personal bias towards well build wooden tools, though.

It's very doable in wood, it just takes a little different approach to deal with the differences between the materials you choose to make it from. I would argue that the wood might actually be easier to work with as rounding and polishing all the holes you make into a chunk of steel will be quite time consuming, but a little finesse with a Dremel tool and the material can removed faster and cleaned up nicely in less time. You may even be able to use a router to round out the edges of some holes, too.

I might be able to work up a quick drawing to help those of you incline to DIY one of these in wood. I have a few ideas that might work, but a picture or two seems to do a much better job explaining things than paragraphs of words alone. Just let me know if any of you are interested.

[DuncanSinclair]

I might be able to work up a quick drawing to help those of you incline to DIY one of these in wood. I have a few ideas that might work, but a picture or two seems to do a much better job explaining things than paragraphs of words alone. Just let me know if any of you are interested.

I would love to see your ideas! My workshop is mostly wood oriented at the moment, but hoping Santa will bring me some metal working tools (and silversmithing)

[shtoink]

On a side note, I noticed that a cheap tube flaring tool might work as a starting point for a rein rounder. You'd obviously need to clean it up, but it'd give you a starting point for a low cost.

[dirtclod]

On a side note, I noticed that a cheap tube flaring tool might work as a starting point for a rein rounder. You'd obviously need to clean it up, but it'd give you a starting point for a low cost.

Tried one of them to and it didn't work very good because you have to tighten both ends. A steel one with a hinge works LOTS better !!

[Trox]

Hi John

You were right with your advice. After much searching to no avail, my Husband tired of the constant muttering about Rein Rounders set to and made one. This is the Mother of all Rein Rounders! The holes start at 3/4" and descend in 1/32"s. It took about a week to make, most of it taken up with polishing the holes. It bolts to the end of my bench and initial "test drives" have proved it to be most functional. The cost in materials was minimal and the cost of taking the "Boss" to lunch was a lot less than getting a Rounder freighted here.

Hi DJ,

Thats a very nice looking rounder, your husband did a good job there. I will agree with Dirtclod metal works much better than hardwood. I to tried to make Stohlmans hardwood rounder with no success.

DJ, what kind of soap are you using when you soak your reins? I have used green dish washer soap before and I am now trying with Fibings glycerin saddle soap. I am often making round dog collars with hidden stitches (I am doing one as we speak) and I have made my self a pretty good tool for the rounding. I am using steel eye bolts with wooden handles (see pic). I hold the tool with my left hand and pull the rein back and forth with my other hand. As the reins is getting a rounder shape I am twisting/angling the tool so the diameter of the eye bolt gets smaller. These bolts are perfect for the job. I have several eye bolts in different sizes, however I use only one or two sizes for rounding the strap, it works well. (you can also fix the tool in a vice to free your hands of course)

DJ, a last question.

I have often wondering about a way to sew these reins on a machine. When you sew these on your Pearson does it make a slit or a groove for hiding the stitches. I do not think a groove will work well for me, it will leave visible marks. I would very much like to see that Person attachment, do you think it is possible to do the same job on a 441 lock stitch machine. I would love to see a picture of that attachment.

In advance thanks.

Trox

[Woodyrock]

Caught this post late, but there is (or was) an Osborne rein rounder in the Ferrymead outdoor museum in Christchurch. They had an entire Harness makers kit. I think the Canterbury Museum has several as well. Museums always have many more oieces stored away, but will allow viewing, and measuring, and etc. if asked. Then, any Kiwi that works metal could make one as did your husband. My first rein rounder was made from from either Rata, or Puriri, and worked quite well.

Woody...late of Aranui, Christchurch.

[Singermania]

Hi Trox, its Steve in Australia, did you every get any information on the Pearson round rein attachment?? is so could you enlighten me too.?? Regards Steve

[Singermania]

So great to see people talking about making things themselves instead of importing them from China... We can all sit on our fat bottoms watching a game on the big screen tv, but what about showing our kids how to make things for themselves too. I've been to China, I have Chinese relatives, they are great people, however I don't see why we should be letting them run us out of town. Let's use our manufacturing knowhow to push back into the market place. We are now re manufacturing the Pearson No 6 rein rounder attachment and matching plate and are thrilled with the results, we've been able in a few short weeks to move the price back from $550 a set to $390. We are not big enough to re manutacture and improve on the old Pearson, Landis or Randall but someone sure must be able to learn from these machines, throw on a reverse etc and get up and running.... if they do we need to support them.

[Singermania]

If anybody is needing one, we now have the Pearson Busmc No 6 rein rounder attachment and matching needle plate available. These are new items made of hardened steel, the blade in the needle plate is replaceable and the set comes with a handy instruction sheet. Regars Steve, stevebonnett at dodo dot com dot au

[NWBicketLeatherCollc]

On 2/22/2010 at 3:32 PM, amuckart said:

Thanks DJ, I appreciate the explanation.

Where in the heck can I find a "Round Rein Attachment?" That sounds like a tool that needs to be on the hot list in my shop!!! Will it fit the Cobra Class 4?

[BigSiouxSaddlery]

The round rein attachments to fit machines were an available option to most of the stitchers manufacturered in the early 1900's.  They usually consisted of a knife to cut a channel in the bottom side, a knife of some sort to cut the top channel (usually built into the foot) a special plate, and a left and right guide.  Sometimes the knife attached to the machine itself, sometimes to the needle bar in the case of a hook and awl machine.  As far as I know, no such package exists to fit the modern machines such as the Cobra, Cowboy, and other "clone" machines.  I try to keep a vintage machine set up with a knife in it to sew rounds, so I do not have to spend time switching feet and resetting the knife every time I want to channel the bottom side, whether it be rounds or harness traces.  A good machinist may be able to fabricate such a package for your Cobra.  The stock needle plate doesn't work very well, because the opening for the feed dog is too wide, and when the dog drops, fine work drops down with it and doesn't feed correctly.  Even with a proper set-up on an old machine, there is a significant learning curve to making rounds.