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BigSiouxSaddlery

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  1. It is an American model A. I will PM you.
  2. I'd like $475 out of it. I do not want to ship. If you're in MN, I'm close enough that you'd be able to look at it in person. I'm in south east SD, just north of Sioux Falls.
  3. You're welcome. I well remember the time when I rode bareback because I was too small to saddle a horse, and I also well remember the day I realized I was big enough/strong enough to saddle one. Funny thing is, it turned out I still preferred riding bareback for a long time after I could saddle my own. I couldn't feel my horse through the saddle; it placed me further back and it felt like I was "behind the motion". Good luck and happy searching.
  4. That looks like a Bona Allen stamp to me. You can Google them. They had a long and interesting history. I would say late 1940's (?) model. Cantles and swells were getting lower by the 50's. That long ago, saddles weren't as specialized as they are now. Mostly there were roping saddles and riding saddles. While this one has double Dee ring rigging, the rigging leather itself looks a little light to be roping anything. Hopefully someone comes along that is better at dating these saddles and knows the history of the US companies better than I do.
  5. Relative to the total number of cattle slaughtered, there aren't many bulls processed. Still, those weigh-up bulls go somewhere when they leave the sale barn. I'd probably start there. . .the sale barn, by finding out who buys the bulls and where they go. Then talk to whoever processes them. Or just go to the nearest beef packing house and see if you can make arrangements. Local lockers won't have any of course. If you happen to be in ranch country, you might source a few from local ranchers. Try as they might to avoid it, they're going to lose a bull now and then. Make it worth their while, and you might end up with some bull heads.
  6. There is a Facebook group for people who braid, hitch and twist horsehair. I believe the name of it is Horsehair- Hitching, Twisting and Braiding. If there is educational material available, people in that group would know where to direct you.
  7. These are hand stitched. A machine can't sew through both ends of a loop.
  8. Imo, Wickett's show harness is misnamed. It has a very hard, waxy, dull finish with a pull up effect upon flexing. All of those qualities are the furthest from what I would look for in leather I intended to use for show harness. Their English Bridle is not near as stiff nor waxy.
  9. I can tell you that the brand is the logo of Mast Harness Hardware, who sold out to Weaver back in the mid 2000s(?). Eli Schlabagh owned it, and now is the owner of Landis sales and Service in Illinois. He would be able to tell you something about the knife, and is a wonderful and interesting person to visit with.
  10. Normally a broader, more round blade works good for skiving larger parts, although I use my pattern cutting round knife for skiving also. A lot of times it's simply whichever knife is handy and closest to me at the time. Sharp is the most important factor.
  11. I guess if I'd have looked at the second picture more closely, I'd have seen the rivets weren't set. Lol. I was in a hurry, I still had lots to do and not enough day left. But you're welcome. Good luck.
  12. You have the plates set way too far into the assembly. You have to leave enough space below your bottom post, so that it can go into the hole and not bind on the stirrup leather. Some people rivet the plates on the the outside of the fender, and skip the burrs, peening the rivets right into the plate. I never cared for the look of that personally. I usually skive the very end of the fender leg down a bit also, so it's less likely to cause a lump and the stirrup leather passes over it more smoothly. Edit: At this point, since it's just for a fender gauge, you could take a sharp french edger and trim the leather back so that it terminates about halfway between where it currently is and the rivets. Then you wouldn't have to drill the rivets out to cut the excess off.
  13. I hate to give bad advice, so take this for what it cost ya. Personally, I would trying cleaning the whole project with a good leather cleaner, like Lexol cleaner (in the orange bottle). You could try something like deglazer or acetone, but I don't like what it does to leather, and have had mixed results trying to remove acrylic finish with both of those. You said you put Leather Sheen on it, and that's an acrylic. However, if the Tan Kote is coming off and black dye us coming off, then the Leather Sheen is probably coming off as well. After you get as much off as you can, since archery equipment is outdoor equipment and you have applied oil already, I would be tempted to try a beeswax based product to seal the leather final. It seems like everyone has their own favorite homemade concoction with beeswax as an ingredient, and a google search will bring up more than you want to look up. As you already know, oil alone doesn't completely waterproof leather. A tallow or wax based preparation is needed following the application of oil.
  14. Tan Kote is not water resistant, and will create a sticky mess when exposed to water. It is unfortunate, because for me, the look it provides far exceeds anything else. Four coats is excessive regardless. Excess oil will complicate ANY finishing process, no matter what the product. Many times I have added "one more coat" of oil to something that I know will receive heavy outdoor use and minimal.care and maintenance from the buyer, only to end up with a smeary mess when trying to apply a finish. I've used Resolene, Weaver Tuff Kote, Tan Kote, Angelus acrylic ( which is a superior product), Neat Lac, Leather Sheen, and others I'm probably forgetting.
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