Members DuncanSinclair Posted November 20, 2012 Members Report Posted November 20, 2012 The holes start at 3/4" and descend in 1/32"s. It took about a week to make, most of it taken up with polishing the holes. It bolts to the end of my bench and initial "test drives" have proved it to be most functional. The cost in materials was minimal and the cost of taking the "Boss" to lunch was a lot less than getting a Rounder freighted here. Has anyone tried making one of these out of hardwood? Success or failure? I have more hardwood that steel in my shop. Besides, how was this done before steel and Iron was widley available? Quote Chris Anderso,n KC9UVB Member -IILG Greenwood #514, F&AM
Members Emmet Posted November 20, 2012 Members Report Posted November 20, 2012 Has anyone tried making one of these out of hardwood? Success or failure? I have more hardwood that steel in my shop. Besides, how was this done before steel and Iron was widley available? While I haven't done it my self it has been how some people have done it in the past. I think its even mentioned in one of the Stohlman books Quote
dirtclod Posted November 20, 2012 Report Posted November 20, 2012 I made one out of wood it worked ok but a steel one is LOTS better. Quote I'm old enough to know that i don't know everything.
Members shtoink Posted November 20, 2012 Members Report Posted November 20, 2012 I made one out of wood it worked ok but a steel one is LOTS better. This may be due to the type of wood being used. If you went with a very dense, tight grained wood like a Desert Ironwood, Lignum Vitae, or even Cocobolo, you'd be able to get near metal-like strength and also be able to give it a very smooth finish. I'd stay away from an open grain wood similar to Oak, Mahogany, or Walnut. The grain is to rough and may end up damaging the leather by scraping it rather than polish it. You'd need to find some way to reinforce the center section with either a metal brace or another chunk of wood screwed into the outer most top and bottom. The addition of some guides to keep the top half aligned with the bottom half will keep it from flexing or sliding while pulling the leather through the holes, too. The idea is to overbuild it a little and reinforce the more flexible areas to keep it as rigid as possible. Depending on which species of wood you go with, there may not be much of a cost savings. It also depends on tools available to you. Some of you might be better setup for working with metal, some wood, and some have it all covered. I have a personal bias towards well build wooden tools, though. It's very doable in wood, it just takes a little different approach to deal with the differences between the materials you choose to make it from. I would argue that the wood might actually be easier to work with as rounding and polishing all the holes you make into a chunk of steel will be quite time consuming, but a little finesse with a Dremel tool and the material can removed faster and cleaned up nicely in less time. You may even be able to use a router to round out the edges of some holes, too. I might be able to work up a quick drawing to help those of you incline to DIY one of these in wood. I have a few ideas that might work, but a picture or two seems to do a much better job explaining things than paragraphs of words alone. Just let me know if any of you are interested. Quote
Members DuncanSinclair Posted November 20, 2012 Members Report Posted November 20, 2012 I might be able to work up a quick drawing to help those of you incline to DIY one of these in wood. I have a few ideas that might work, but a picture or two seems to do a much better job explaining things than paragraphs of words alone. Just let me know if any of you are interested. I would love to see your ideas! My workshop is mostly wood oriented at the moment, but hoping Santa will bring me some metal working tools (and silversmithing) Quote Chris Anderso,n KC9UVB Member -IILG Greenwood #514, F&AM
Members shtoink Posted November 20, 2012 Members Report Posted November 20, 2012 On a side note, I noticed that a cheap tube flaring tool might work as a starting point for a rein rounder. You'd obviously need to clean it up, but it'd give you a starting point for a low cost. Quote
dirtclod Posted November 20, 2012 Report Posted November 20, 2012 On a side note, I noticed that a cheap tube flaring tool might work as a starting point for a rein rounder. You'd obviously need to clean it up, but it'd give you a starting point for a low cost. Tried one of them to and it didn't work very good because you have to tighten both ends. A steel one with a hinge works LOTS better !! Quote I'm old enough to know that i don't know everything.
Trox Posted November 21, 2012 Report Posted November 21, 2012 Hi John You were right with your advice. After much searching to no avail, my Husband tired of the constant muttering about Rein Rounders set to and made one. This is the Mother of all Rein Rounders! The holes start at 3/4" and descend in 1/32"s. It took about a week to make, most of it taken up with polishing the holes. It bolts to the end of my bench and initial "test drives" have proved it to be most functional. The cost in materials was minimal and the cost of taking the "Boss" to lunch was a lot less than getting a Rounder freighted here. Hi DJ, Thats a very nice looking rounder, your husband did a good job there. I will agree with Dirtclod metal works much better than hardwood. I to tried to make Stohlmans hardwood rounder with no success. DJ, what kind of soap are you using when you soak your reins? I have used green dish washer soap before and I am now trying with Fibings glycerin saddle soap. I am often making round dog collars with hidden stitches (I am doing one as we speak) and I have made my self a pretty good tool for the rounding. I am using steel eye bolts with wooden handles (see pic). I hold the tool with my left hand and pull the rein back and forth with my other hand. As the reins is getting a rounder shape I am twisting/angling the tool so the diameter of the eye bolt gets smaller. These bolts are perfect for the job. I have several eye bolts in different sizes, however I use only one or two sizes for rounding the strap, it works well. (you can also fix the tool in a vice to free your hands of course) DJ, a last question. I have often wondering about a way to sew these reins on a machine. When you sew these on your Pearson does it make a slit or a groove for hiding the stitches. I do not think a groove will work well for me, it will leave visible marks. I would very much like to see that Person attachment, do you think it is possible to do the same job on a 441 lock stitch machine. I would love to see a picture of that attachment. In advance thanks. Trox Quote Tor Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100
Members Woodyrock Posted November 22, 2012 Members Report Posted November 22, 2012 Caught this post late, but there is (or was) an Osborne rein rounder in the Ferrymead outdoor museum in Christchurch. They had an entire Harness makers kit. I think the Canterbury Museum has several as well. Museums always have many more oieces stored away, but will allow viewing, and measuring, and etc. if asked. Then, any Kiwi that works metal could make one as did your husband. My first rein rounder was made from from either Rata, or Puriri, and worked quite well. Woody...late of Aranui, Christchurch. Quote
Members Singermania Posted March 25, 2013 Members Report Posted March 25, 2013 Hi Trox, its Steve in Australia, did you every get any information on the Pearson round rein attachment?? is so could you enlighten me too.?? Regards Steve Quote
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