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This forum is a wonderful resource but don't forget about the outstanding technical support from Tippmann. I was having the same problems; i.e., loop forming at the tip of the needle and also occasionally missing a stitch. Ben immediately addressed tightening the tensioner screw on the thread takeup lever.

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Posted

This forum is a wonderful resource but don't forget about the outstanding technical support from Tippmann. I was having the same problems; i.e., loop forming at the tip of the needle and also occasionally missing a stitch. Ben immediately addressed tightening the tensioner screw on the thread takeup lever.

Amen to that. I've had excellent and courteous service whenever I've called Tippmann.

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Posted

Glad you got it resolved. That's something I hadn't thought of. Goes on the notepage just in case. By the way really neat website.

Thanks for the compliments on the website. It's not 100% yet, but getting close. Want to add more details to the individual model pages with more options (maybe....), maybe shoot a video of me building a holster (since they seem to be hard to find on the net), process photos, etc. Most of all, thanks for all your help with the Boss stitches. I really appreciate it.

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Posted

What is the part number of the adjustable screw on the thread takeup lever?

Posted

Thanks for the compliments on the website. It's not 100% yet, but getting close. Want to add more details to the individual model pages with more options (maybe....), maybe shoot a video of me building a holster (since they seem to be hard to find on the net), process photos, etc. Most of all, thanks for all your help with the Boss stitches. I really appreciate it.

You're most welcome. Looking forward to the video. I think it would be an excellent marketing tool as well as adding to the knowledge base. I haven't found much worthwhile video wise outside of Tucker's videos.

PS: Were all waiting for more holster pics. Hint Hintbegging.gif

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Posted

HS 98-3 (see attached)

Thanks. I slightly tightened the bolt and the looping problem went away.

This is really quite a learning experience. Last night, I sewed my first holster after sewing yards of stitches on practice scrapes. I was pleased with the appearance of my top stitching but I'm still not used to seeing the appearance of the bottom stitching from a machine. One problem I created for myself. When I stitched around a curve or approaching a corner, I'd lift the presser foot and place the next stitch by eye. The result is visibly erratic stitch lengths. I think I need to rely more of the accuracy of the machine, letting it control the stitch length. I need to learn to nudge the line of stitching around a curve without lifting the foot.

Posted

Thanks. I slightly tightened the bolt and the looping problem went away.

This is really quite a learning experience. Last night, I sewed my first holster after sewing yards of stitches on practice scrapes. I was pleased with the appearance of my top stitching but I'm still not used to seeing the appearance of the bottom stitching from a machine. One problem I created for myself. When I stitched around a curve or approaching a corner, I'd lift the presser foot and place the next stitch by eye. The result is visibly erratic stitch lengths. I think I need to rely more of the accuracy of the machine, letting it control the stitch length. I need to learn to nudge the line of stitching around a curve without lifting the foot.

Jeff

It just takes a little practice to get the rythm when going around curves. As the needle penetrates the leather and the presser foot lifts you nudge. If you nudge too much you can micro adjust with the presser foot down. Seriously after a little practice it becomes second nature and you don't even think about it. It helps if you focus on the left side of your presser foot in relation to your groove. Trying to set your stitches by eye always causes problems as there is a certain optical illusion from the sewers perspective as to stitch length. At least for me that always resulted in longer stitches where I didn't trust the machine. Some times you just have to set by eye and it helps to watch the machine as you are stitching a straight line watching how the distance looks as the needle comes down in relation to the last stitch and after awhile your brain will pick up on the correct look. In comming to a sharp turn start to estimate the remaining distance with two stitches to go and balance out the difference. Hope this helps a bit.

The back side with all machines except for needle and awl is never going to look like hand stitching unless someone has a trick I don't know about. You can improve it by heavier thread, lower tension, and 4 to 5 spi but it just won't be as pretty. If some one knows differently feel free to jump in.

Posted

OK! Here is what this post originally asked for. If I do this right and have the photos edited to the right size. Two holsters showing the backside sewen on the Boss.PDStich.jpglcrstitch.jpg

post-7354-126547752021_thumb.jpg

post-7354-126547753686_thumb.jpg

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Posted

Okay - Denster's looks way better than mine, but I think I'm getting the tension closer. Here is the backside of a couple I did this week.

The first in the group - note the inconsistent tension, needle thread showing through, etc. Ugh.

782110511_HUHQc-L.jpg

This is one of the last ones I sewed after the excellent feedback from this thread, and after tightening the bolt on the thread take-up lever.

782111570_yKkjj-L.jpg

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