Stiching Tools

[Mollard]

Hi. My name is Chris. I have been interested in leathercraft for awhile now and really want to give it a shot. I will be mainly focused on stitching motorcycle saddlebags, tool bags, belts and wallets. I'm not so much interested in tooling, yet. I want to be able to build rugged purpose built bags. Nothing fancy yet, just tough as nails. My interest in this started when I began doing long trips on my bike and could not find exactly what I required in a saddlebag, short of hiring someone to build it. My main source of inspiration is my bag from Saddleback Leather Company. I have one of their backpacks that suits me perfectly, but they do not offer saddlebags, tools bags and such.

So I know what I want to build, but have no experience what so ever. I want to head down to the local Tandy and pick up a basic set of tools and a supply of leather. But local means 2 1/2 hours one way. So I want to be sure I get everything I need to begin stitching. I have been studying the books "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather" and " Leathercraft Tools" by Stohlman. I feel I have a decent list of tools required, but sure I missed something. So I'm asking for a bit of input before I make the journey to Toronto. I'm not interested in buying a "beginners set". I would rather buy quality tools, only the ones required for the task at hand.

Want to start with some decent knives:

Al Stohlman Damascus Curved Trim Knife

Damascus Straight Trim Knife

Damascus Head Knife

(any comments about these?)

Al Stohlman Punch Set

Most of the rest will be Craftool to start:

Poly cutting board

Edge Beveler + slicker

Stitching groover

Over stitch wheels

Draw gauge - for cutting straps

Strap end punch

Awl - diamond shape?

Harness needles

Compass

Stylus

Stitching pony

Maul and smooth face hammer

Straight edges

+ The Art of Making Leather Cases

Glues, Dyes, Finish, Thread, Wax, Rouge, LEATHER.

I don't know anyone personally that knows the craft. Just trying to put together a decent tool kit to get myself started. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Inspiration:

http://www.saddlebackleather.com/

Thanks a lot,

Chris

[Luke Hatley]

WELCOME TO THE FOURM AND HAPPY SEWING....YOUR LIST LOOKS FINE. THE ONE ITEM I WOULD SUGGEST WOULD BE "THS ART OF HAND SEWING" by AL STOLHMAN.

[celticleather]

Welcome to the Forum, Chris.

That's a pretty comprehensive shopping list! Can't think of much else that you'll need, except practise . . . which money can't buy! I'm sure the folks on here will be happy to chip in with anything else that you need to know that's not covered in the books.

On second thoughts, you may need something for sore fingers . . !

[King's X]

Welcome to the forum!

Please fill out your profile, so that maybe a member near you can contact you.

[Mollard]

Ok, I'll get on the profile thing. I did happen to make it into tandy the other day. Just ended up getting my more reading material. Want to do a bit more studying before I take the plunge.

[JLSleather]

Want to start with some decent knives:

Al Stohlman Damascus Curved Trim Knife

Damascus Straight Trim Knife

Damascus Head Knife

(any comments about these?)

Al Stohlman Punch Set

Most of the rest will be Craftool to start:

Poly cutting board

Edge Beveler + slicker

Stitching groover

Over stitch wheels

Draw gauge - for cutting straps

Strap end punch

Awl - diamond shape?

Harness needles

Compass

Stylus

Stitching pony

Maul and smooth face hammer

Straight edges

+ The Art of Making Leather Cases

Glues, Dyes, Finish, Thread, Wax, Rouge, LEATHER.

If you're cutting out bags, I think a "strap cutter" would be fine ... inexpensive "draw guage", much cheaper and sturdy enough unless you plan to have it for years.

Much as I like Stohlman's work (cuz I DO), I think the "brand" with his name on the tools are overpriced. Noticeably less money will buy tools that will do the same thing just as well. Most of my "cutting patterns" are taken out of a hide with a heavy razor knife (saves time sharpening, just replace the blade for about a quarter), an X-acto kit, and a Pro Shears.

Personal preference, I'd rather cut on a "poundo" board than the poly stuff. Just my preference.

Rest of your list looks good. I don't know that Stohlman's series on cases will apply to the bags, specifically, but there are alot of good principles in there, worth seeing.

Diamond shaped awl ... YES.

[Mollard]

Well, I took the plunge and bough SOME of the stuff on my list. Bought a nice hide to practice with as well.

I want to build heavy duty stuff here, so I started with some 5-6 oz stuff. My cheap tandy diamond stitching awl gave out right away. The needle part pulled right out of the handle after about 10 stitches.......

Thats why I wanted to buy the quality stuff first, but this was the only one they had, besides the 4 in one which sucks also (and it makes to big of holes.).

Can anyone recommend a place for a quality stitching awl, over stitcher and groover?

Thanks for the help everyone.

[JLSleather]

You went the right way .. AMAZING how many times I see fellas spend their budget on tools to do leather, then don't have any money for the leather (doh!).

Here's the rule ... you can't do leather work without leather. Been a good while since I did any bags, but the boys I know are making them out of 7/8 oz. I like doing that stuff, but got so many people wanting either skulls or flames, which just ain't my thing. Those boys remind me ... remember the movie "Blues Brothers"? ... We got BOTH kinds o music -- country AND western...

You should be able to get the tools with any of the links at the top of the page. Might want to spend the extra $3 or so and go with the saddle groover. Same as the stitching groover, but reaches a little farther and a bit more sturdy.

[Mollard]

Yeah skulls and flames isn't really my thing neither.

I want to focus on making bags that last a lifetime +

I'm sick of the throw away society I live in. Every where I go people want to sell me junk, so I decided to build stuff myself.

Now, how can I build myself a quality awl......

Chris

[TimDreamer]

You could check out the awls at C. S. Osborne, they have hafts as well as the various awls to go with them.

I had one of their tools (a creaser) handed down to me and it was still in great shape even after years of disuse and neglect.

Whoops!! Springfield Leather carries C. S. Osborne tools, too!! Call Kevin!!

Edited March 2, 2010 by TimDreamer

[Mollard]

Well, I still seem to be having problems. I got another awl from Tandy. The first one I tried had a handle with a fixed blade. The new one has a handle with replaceable blades. After only a few stitches the blade became loose in the handle. I tried tightening it with pliers, and got it to work enough to finish the small project I had started.

When I started another practice piece, I only finished 3 stitches an then I snapped the blade completely off. I'm beginning to wonder if it is my techniques that are the problem, not the awl.

The first awl I choose had a sharp point and blade on it. It worked really well until the blade pulled out of the handle. The second awl was not as sharp as the first so I tried sharpening it on my own. I feel that I was never really able to get it sharp enough. I think this is my biggest problem. I would really appreciate any sharpening tips from you guys.

Also. I my first project was two pieces of 8/9oz stitches together. The second two attempts I used two pieces of 5/6oz. Maybe I chose to heavy of a leather to hone my techniques?

Thanks a lot.

Chris

[MADMAX22]

Make sure you head down to the stitching subsection and read thru that place for a while. Alot of good info in there.

Ive been using the tandy awls for a while and have only broke two of them but that was on some double layer leather that had some rawhide spots in it.

Get the point really sharp, I made a stropping block that had 800, 1000, 2000 grit sand paper and a leather side loaded with jewelers rouge. Remember with the awl you want the point sharp but the edges up higher just polished. Any of those little serrations and such will grab the leather.

When you start stitching rub some bees wax on the blade then start a going, once you do a couple of stitches stab the bees wax again and keep going, this kind of lubes up the awl and lets it stab a little easier. Also keep the awl blade nice and perpendicular to the project.

When you have the awl fully inserted give it a quick wiggle back and forth from flat side to flat side (not from edge to edge), this will open up the hole a bit and allow the awl to come out easier plus help with the needles passing thru.

Oh and to steal Hilly's post from another thread "If you want a really nice awl, call Bob Douglas 307-737-2222. You won't be disappointed"

Edited March 25, 2010 by MADMAX22

[Torquewrench]

I believe I have the same awl as you. When it pulled out I just epoxied it in and has been working well for a few years now. All new tools need to be sharpened! Wood working tools are the same, never sharp out of the box.

They seem sharp, but when you get to use one that is truly sharp you will see the difrence. That 4 in 1 awl kit has blades that are way too large. Ross

[Mollard]

OK well I figured I would show some pictures of what I have been up to the last few days. Have been really busy with other stuff, but have managed to squeeze in a bit of time for leather work. I found a sharpening stone and got my awl to a pretty good point. Made a big difference, but I'm going to have to work on my sharpening technique big time. Here is a few pictures for you guys.

Thanks for all the help eh.

Chris

This is the workshop I set up for myself in the basement.

A few of my practice pieces.

Closer up.

Here I was playing with the stitching spacer/over wheel. Trying to get the look/quality that I'm after for these bags.

Here is a carving I did. Not really what I want to do, but I sure I'll put just a couple decorations on my bags. It's out of one of the books from Tandy.

[HideShop]

Well, I took the plunge and bough SOME of the stuff on my list. Bought a nice hide to practice with as well.

I want to build heavy duty stuff here, so I started with some 5-6 oz stuff. My cheap tandy diamond stitching awl gave out right away. The needle part pulled right out of the handle after about 10 stitches.......

Thats why I wanted to buy the quality stuff first, but this was the only one they had, besides the 4 in one which sucks also (and it makes to big of holes.).

Can anyone recommend a place for a quality stitching awl, over stitcher and groover?

Thanks for the help everyone.

[HideShop]

For stitching awls and blades go to Bob Douglas. His awl handle is about 65 dollars and the diamond blades around 25 dollars and you can get different sizes. I don't think anyone will argue the quality of Bob's tools. His number is 307-737-2222 dsctools@fiberpipe. net. Sheridan WY. If you plan on doing a lot of stitching this is the place to start

Richard

[Mollard]

I will have to call Bob some time this week when I get a chance. So many people have good things to say about his product I will have to try one out. Sounds right up my ally.

I had a little time to spend down in the workshop last night and decided to try and build a case for my knife. I have been able to really improve the edge on my awl which is helping out tremendously. Thanks for your help on the sharpening ideas. I think the case turned out decent, but really need to review the steps of fabrication. I feel I am ready to start stitching a matching belt and wallet for my first real build. Before I do though, I need to figure out a dye/finish system that is going to work for me. With this case here I just winged it with some stuff that I got from a bud.

Maybe someone could suggest a good system that would work for me, and explain a simple process. I have been reading so much about dyes/finishes, but still don't know which direction to take. I need something that will help the leather rough the elements. Everything I plan to build is something that will take a beating and see lots of weather. I have no idea where to begin with this.

And thanks a lot for all your responses. It has helped out so much.

Chris

[TwinOaks]

I currently have two of the Osborne awls from Tandy. One broke because I was stabbing down through the leather into a hard cutting board- lesson: get one of the 'poundo' boards or some other really good mat for the awl to stab into if you don't have a stitching pony/horse. When it broke, I realized that it was the perfect opportunity. I pulled the back of the blade out of the haft, then epoxied the front portion back in. Then I (slowly) re-profiled the awl blade. Now I have a second awl that is more the size of a English bridal awl- it makes nice diamond holes....only they're little for when I want to use some 69 thread....like on a wallet.

So don't presume that your tool is toast just because it breaks. After all, even if the blade is no good, the Osborne awls have that really nifty radius turned on the handle. Guess what makes a great hand burnisher when you have thick leather?

Oh, and definitely do the little trick where you make a flat spot on the side of the awl. It gives a good thumb rest, allows for consistent orientation, and reduces the number of "rolled off the bench and stuck in my foot" episodes.

[Mollard]

That's a great idea. Never thought of burnishing with that radius. Probably would have fit perfect. I wont through them away, I'll keep them around. Hopefully I will get to do some more work tonight.

69 thread? How is thread gauged and rated. One other thing I was thinking about was hemp. Anyone ever have luck with stitching it? Or what do you think I should use.

Thanks

Chris