Mystery Singer Patcher - C. 1892

[elZeeko]

Hello,

I just found a Singer Patcher on Craigslist and brought it home.

Photos here:

http://tiny.cc/SyXJa

I had been sitting about 20 years and was stiff, but I cleaned it up and it sews.

It needs some brazing to reattach one of the flanges that holds the pivot pin on the top rocker arm that drives the needle - I have brazed a bit on heavier castings, but could use some advice on this specific repair, if anyone has done it.

I am looking for a model number - it is smaller than a 29 - -serial number is 11,290,601.

What is the best lube to use on the cams?

Also, any advice on making a belt? - I am using some heavy shoelace, but it slips a bit.

Thanks!

[CowboyBob]

The best lube is regular clear sewing machine oil,do not ever put grease on a roller it'll build up in front & cause it to stop turning & make a flat spot.

We have the round leather belts in stock for it.

Here's some info on the 29's which is what yours is it just has an open back,different bobbin winder & hand lifter & handwheel are different & the top arm is smaller which they improved on the newer 29's with the added strength of the bridgework.

They were also called U.F.A. for Universal Feed Arm

[elZeeko]

Thanks, Bob,

Have you ever had to braze back on a broken flange where the "Needle Bar Driving Lever Joint Pin" goes thru the body of the machine? I have the broken-off piece, but am worried about cracking the body of the machine when I braze it. Here is a picture of the damage:

http://tiny.cc/bEIN9

Also, do you know of a source for pre-wound bobbins that will fit this machine?

Thanks!

Edited February 15, 2010 by elZeeko

[CowboyBob]

I've done alot of cast iron repair & like to weld using nickle rod,grind & preheat,I have seen alot of machines bazed either way if done properly should hold.

I do have some bobbins in stock & will let you know tomorrow what I have.

[elZeeko]

Looking for collected wisdom on the stitch regulator. Mine tends to walk upward, shortening the stitches, but if I tighten it down, the foot won't drop - I lose the movement on the middle bar. There is some wear in the middle of the gib plate in the regulator, and I filed the notch a little deeper, that didn't help. Any comments/lessons learned?

[elZeeko]

Well, this project came out all-right and I forgot to write any more about it.

Here are some pictures:

http://zeekobag.com/fixing-up-an-old-singer-industrial-sewing-mac

I was able to braze the broken piece at the main pivot pin back onto the body, and figured out that the problem that I was having with the stitch regulator was that the bolt that holds in the needle was too long, and when I'd sew in reverse - away from me, the bolt would hit the regulator and shove it up. A shorter bolt for the needle (made from the long screw that holds an electrical outlet into the box) did the trick. I just chucked the bolt up in a drill and used a grinder and file to turn the head down to the size that I was after, then used a hacksaw to recut the screwdriver slot, and also, to cut it to length.

For the brazing, I just cleaned the area up around the broken 'ear' at the pivot pin, and then used a rosebud tip on my oxy/acetylene torch to get the general area on the head around the broken tab cherry red. Then I placed the broken-off tab back into place, and used a little bit lower heat to get it red, and tease some heat back into the head around it, and used a flux-coated brass rod to run brass all over the crack where the two pieces came together. I used files to smooth out the brazing, and ran a 1/4 drill thru the pivot pin holes to remove the slag - ran the drill in reverse and fed it slow so it wouldn't catch and dig into the bore.

I've had pretty good luck brazing older, heavy cast pieces. Think that taking time to slowly heat up the larger piece well first is the trick - otherwise it is easy to melt or deform the smaller piece that you are trying to put back on.